Lusting after a dreamy island unit? A kitchen island is one of the most popular kitchen ideas, and has long topped the ‘most-wanted’ charts, and for good reason. Not only do they look seriously impressive, a well-planned island unit can make light work of delivering dinner. When asking that all-important question,  ‘how much does a kitchen island cost?’ design factors such as size, shape and special features all pay a part in the overall price.

‘The best kitchen islands create a true ‘working side’ of the kitchen. Countered with a ‘social side’ to provide seating for the breakfast rush hour or guests catching up before dinner,’ says Peter Humphrey, design director of Humphrey Munson.

Working out exactly how much all these benefits will set you back can prove tricky. It’s possible to bag a freestanding island that will add prep space, storage and room for bar stools to your kitchen layout, for less than £350 (hello, Ikea’s VADHOLMA!). Or you could go full footballer’s wife with an island longer than the average family car and loaded with exotic marble and top-end appliances.

For most of us, an island unit that comes in somewhere between £1,000-£4,500 is more manageable. As with any renovation budgeting, the key to getting exactly what you want within your means is to break down all the costs. Armed with this information, you can prioritise where you spend and where you save.

How much does a kitchen island unit cost?

We’ve identified the five main factors that will affect how much does a kitchen island cost.

1. Size

Image credit: Future PLC/David Giles

This is the big one (or not so big if money is tight!). Sure, it doesn’t cost that much more to add a couple of extra kitchen units in your island. That’s until you realise the impact that has on the worktop costs, installation, painting, hardware and so on. Don’t go too small though; even a small kitchen island needs to be practical for it to be worthy of a place at all.

Establishing the negative space, i.e. the space between the island and perimeter units/other furniture, is a good way to work out what size island would work best in your space. ‘The golden rule is to allow 1-1.2m to move around easily. But there are times when going narrower is justified – for example when the dishwasher door is open,’ says Peter Humphrey.

You can often save money by sizing your island unit to work with standard worktop sizes. This means there’ll be fewer fabricating costs when fitting the tops. ‘Joints in the worktop can also be really obvious on island units that are centrally positioned and designed to be noticed,’ says Graeme Smith, head of retail design, Life Kitchens. ‘Islands longer than 3.5m usually require two slabs of worktop material, which means a joint will be unavoidable.’

2. Design

Image credit: Caple

The more complex the design, the longer it will take to make, adding to the final bill. Standard shape islands – squares or rectangles – made using standard size/shape cabinets are your friend when counting the pennies. Curves and bespoke sizes will quickly bump up the budget because making curved and one-off cabinetry is labour-intensive.

There are ways to achieve more interesting island designs without breaking the bank. For example, curving the corners of your worktops is more affordable if you don’t curve the cabinetry beneath. So perhaps go with a curved breakfast bar with simple leg supports. Choose cupboards or open shelves instead of drawer units to free up funds for a fancier design. ‘It’s a brave move to step beyond classic rectangular designs but the pay-off can be huge in terms of visual impact,’ adds Jane Powell, kitchen designer at Roundhouse.

3. Materials

The cost of materials factors highly. You can build an island unit from standard kitchen units but if you put solid wood doors on (rather than a foil-wrap chipboard or ply) it’ll cost more. Worktops can also make or break your island budget, especially if you go for fancy details like waterfall edges. This is where the worktop flows down to the floor at each end. Worktops that require specialist templating and installation – for example stone and composites – will cost more than surfaces you or your builder can install, like laminate or wood.

‘It’s important to consider how an island looks from all angles, especially if it’s taking up a large footprint,’ says Pierce Coyne, design manager, Kitchen Architecture. If budget is tight, focus your spending where it will be seen most frequently. This is why you’ll often see statement materials like burnished brass or designer tiles on the front elevation of an island. ‘Using shelving to create attractive displays on the front of an island is a good way to make it look more impressive and add personality,’ adds Pierce.

4. Extra features

Image credit: Future PLC/Amanda Turner

Additional equipment like sinks, hobs and other appliances will add up. Assuming you were having them in the kitchen anyway, it’s not the price of the individual items you need to consider. It’s more the extra trades involved when getting them installed.

For example, a sink with a boiling water tap may require a plumber and electrician. There’s also drainage materials and potentially draining grooves cut into your worktops. Keep it simple and leave the island for prepping, serving food and socialising if money is an issue.

5. Manufacturing style

The cost of manufacturing an island unit increases according to the amount of labour involved. Bargain seekers should consider an off-the-shelf island, preferably one designed to be put together DIY style. Next up are islands made from mass produced units, which offers more flexibility with design, shape and size but are still reasonably affordable. Finally, at the top-end of the market, you can commission a bespoke island unit that’s made just for you, from scratch, using virtually any material or finish you desire.

The manufacturing style can also have cost implications when it comes to installation. A flat-pack island unit from Ikea will have no installation costs if you’re handy with a screwdriver. Whereas a large bespoke island may take several days and several trades to install.

How much does a kitchen island cost to make bespoke?

Image credit: Clayton Cabinets/Darren Chung

Anything in life that is made uniquely for you, from tailormade suits to original artwork, is always going to be more expensive than something churned out by machines. There are too many variables – size, materials, appliances etc – to put an exact figure on the cost of a bespoke island unit. You should be prepared to part with upwards of £5,000 for something special.

‘Buying bespoke is a great way to get a truly individual island design, and means you’re not constrained by the rigid dimensions or shapes of standardised cabinetry sizes,’ says bespoke maker Nick Clayton, director of Clayton Cabinets. ‘You also get a chance to be a part of the creative process and can incorporate interesting materials and finishes, like reclaimed timber or striking stones.

When buying bespoke it’s important to establish a clear budget from the outset. A good maker will detail the costs involved and will be willing to help you make savings where possible.’

Can you buy a kitchen island on its own?

Yes, you don’t need an entirely new kitchen to add an island to your scheme. As long as space allows, introducing an island unit can transform the functionality and look of your current kitchen.

Some kitchen suppliers won’t just sell you a lone island, but many will. Alternatively, you can buy freestanding islands from places like The Cotswold Company or Neptune. Don’t be afraid to try bespoke kitchen-makers. Many are happy to make individual items, like island units, and may be able to fit you in between larger jobs.

If you’re feeling handy, there are lots of DIY kitchen island ideas and upcycling tips to explore.

Does a kitchen island add value?

When assessing if the cost of adding a kitchen island is worth it, it’s important to look at what value it adds. A kitchen island is the single-most requested feature for new kitchens, which suggests they are indeed very desirable and therefore likely to add value to your home.

A well-designed, attractive island unit with plenty of space around it and room for bar stools will undoubtedly improve the value of your home, and lifestyle. Beware of cramming an island unit into a kitchen that doesn’t have sufficient space. If an oversized, cheap-looking or badly designed island makes the kitchen look cramped, ugly or unusable, it could actually put buyers off, not to mention make your life a misery.

How much does it cost to install a kitchen island?

Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole

It doesn’t cost anything, beyond a little effort, to install a freestanding island unit you’ve bought off-the-shelf. The cost of installing a fitted island unit will depend on who is doing it and his or her fees. If you get a builder or fitter to quote a day rate, make sure they give you an idea of how many days it might take.

Two days should be more than sufficient for all but the most complicated island design. Extra costs to consider include any work by a plumber or electrician, and don’t forget to add in the worktop fabricator’s fitting charge, if applicable.

The post How much does a kitchen island cost and is it worth it? appeared first on Ideal Home.

Floor insulation is a hot topic right now, along with other ways to insulate your home. Flooring is one of the main areas where heat loss occurs This is due to gaps in floorboards, skirting, and draughts around pipes.

‘Insulating and improving the airtightness of your floor can be a good first step on the road to a cosier home,’ says Chayley Collis at Green Building Store. ‘Ground floors can be incredibly cold, and are a major contribution to the discomfort of inhabitants.’

Insulating your home won’t just make it toasty and warm. It will also help reduce your property’s carbon emissions and lower utility bills. According to the Energy Saving Trust, installing floor insulation in a typical semi-detached house could save you around £50 per year on energy bills. This is as well as 175kg of carbon dioxide.

For thermal performance, you only need to insulate the ground floor of a home. If you live in a flat or upper floor of a maisonette, you usually don’t need to insulate your floor space. However, you should consider insulating any floors that are above unheated spaces, such as garages, as you could be losing a lot of heat through those.

Some people living in older flats or first-floor maisonettes can upgrade the acoustic performance of their floors by using floor insulation. ‘If you want to improve the acoustic performance of your internal floors, make sure the insulation you choose offers acoustic benefits,’ says Bradley Hirst, technical services manager at Knauf Insulation. ‘Mineral wool insulation works well to reduce noise transfer between living areas, bedrooms and bathrooms.’

What is floor insulation?

Image credit: Future plc/David Brittain

Floor insulation is a method of adding materials underneath floorboards if your home has suspended timber flooring. It can also be added on top of a solid floor, such as concrete. The process also involves blocking any draughts by properly sealing gaps in flooring and skirting boards.

‘The insulation materials used will resist the transference of heat and reduce the amount of warmth lost in your home,’ says Thomas Goodman, property and construction expert at MyJobQuote.

According to the Energy Saving Trust, a typical installation could cost you between £520 and £1,300, depending on the circumstances. The initial price may seem steep seeing as the saving is only approximately £50 per year. But it should last the lifetime of your house with very little maintenance cost.

What are the best floor insulation options?

Image credit: Future plc/Dominic Blackmore

We take a look at what’s available and pros and cons for each type.

Glass or rock mineral wool slabs

A semi-rigid material, glass mineral wool is made from recycled glass, sand, limestone and soda ash. While rock mineral wool is made from volcanic rock, basalt, dolomite and recycled slag from the steel industry.

• Best for Use in suspended timber flooring, as it is light, easy to cut to size. It’s more forgiving when packing between unevenly spaced or warped joists.
• The benefits As well as having great thermal performance, it’s non-combustible. So it will not add to the development or spread of fire should it occur. It’s also easy to cut, light to manoeuvre, and measurements do not need to be as exact as with rigid foam boards.
• The negatives A less rigid construction means more support is needed to keep this insulation in place. A net or battens crossing joists must first be installed. This makes it a more time-consuming installation compared with rigid boards.
• The cost An average 12 pack of mineral wool slabs will cost approximately £30 and cover around 9m².

Blanket floor insulation

Blanket floor insulation is a roll of unfaced mineral glass wool or fibreglass.

• Best for Fibreglass blankets are best used when packing between joists in suspended floors. It’s not suitable for solid flooring as its non-uniform consistency will make your chosen floor covering lie unevenly.
• The benefits Easy to pack between joists with minimal measuring. Affordable, and little expertise needed to install.
• The negatives Cumbersome to move around and glass spores are easily dislodged from the roll itself. Suitable PPE clothing is required when working with it.
• The cost A roll will cost about £20 and will cover approximately 14m².

Rigid foam insulation

Image credit: Future plc/Ryan Wicks

Foam boards are made from foam on the inside and then faced with plastic, aluminium, or plasterboard.

• Best for Rigid foam insulation can be used for both suspended flooring and solid flooring. The thickness of the boards will vary greatly depending on which type of floor it is insulating. It’s especially easy to lay on solid flooring.
• The benefits Easy to cut, shape, and move from one area to another.
• The negatives A less forgiving material than other less rigid forms of insulation. Accurate measuring and cutting is vital.
• The cost Approximately £10-15 per m², depending on the thickness of the insulation.

Foam spray insulation

Image credit: Future plc/Colin Poole

Foam spray insulation is a liquid foam that is sprayed in between the joists of a suspended timber floor. The foam expands and sets into a superior, insulating layer.

• Best for Awkward spaces or if you want to insulate your home without having to lift floorboards.
• The benefits Will completely seal between even the most uneven and warped joists without leaving any gaps. It also offers exceptional thermal resistance. There’s even a robotics company called Q-Bot that uses remote-controlled robots to spray insulation into the void under the floor causing minimal disruption.
• The negatives Can only be installed by skilled professionals.
• The cost An average floor will cost around £525. This will naturally vary depending on the size of the floor. Expect to pay more if you use Q-Bot.

Multifoil insulation

Multifoil is a type of insulation that’s made up of layers of foil as well as wadding.

• Best for Solid floor constructs, but can be used for suspended timber floors, too.
• The benefits Multifoil insulation has a long lifespan – typically 50 years. It’s easy to handle, lightweight, flexible and contains no harmful fibres. This means it can be installed without any specialist tools or PPE. If you’re worried about head height being limited after insulation and floor covering is fitted, SuperFOIL sells a particularly thin multifoil called SFUF. Measuring just 6mm in thickness, it still delivers high thermal performance. Reflective foil prevents heat being lost.
• The negatives Typically costs more than other insulation materials.
• The cost Multifoil insulation starts at around £7.20 per m².

Draught-proofing

Draughts happen where there are gaps in the construction of your home, such as floorboards and skirting gaps.

• Best product to use? Flexible fillers, decorators caulk or mastic products can all tolerate movement. That makes them great for blocking cracks in flooring and skirting boards, which tend to contract, expand or move slightly with everyday use.
• The benefits Blocking unwanted gaps that let cold air in and hot air out of your home will save warm air. That means you’ll use less energy to heat your home, and save money on your energy bills. It will help create a warm, snug living environment, too.
• The negatives Take care in rooms that need good ventilation (such as bathrooms, kitchens and utility rooms), where a lot of moisture is produced.
• The cost Budget around around £200 to add professional draught-proofing to a typical semi-detached property, according to the Energy Saving Trust. DIY draught-proofing will be cheaper.

Rugs and carpets

Image credit: Future plc/Dominic Blackmore

A rug on the floor will help you feel warm underfoot and help block up some draughts. But it won’t reduce heat loss through flooring significantly. Carpets can provide a certain level of insulation. To prevent the optimum amount of heat loss you should still install insulation underneath carpets. This ensures your home is protected as much as possible.

• Best for Use in living rooms and bedrooms.
• The benefits Carpeted floors are good insulators, especially when paired with a thick, insulating layer of underlay underneath.
• The negatives Not practical for heavy-traffic spaces or areas prone to getting wet and dirty. These include entrance hallways, kitchens and bathrooms.
• The cost Carpets can cost anywhere between £5 and £30 per m². Carpet underlay costs an additional £3.50-£28 per m².

Is floor insulation on its own enough?

Insulating your floors is a good starting point for reducing your home’s carbon emissions, and lowering your utility bills. It will work better when used in tandem with other types of insulation, such as cavity wall insulation and roof and loft insulation. ‘This is known as top and tail insulation,’ says Thomas Goodman. ‘As a rule, the more insulation you have in your home, the warmer and more efficient it will be.’

What U-value for flooring is required?

How much insulation you need will depend on the current U-value of your floor set up. According to the Energy Saving Trust, if you live in England or Wales, the floor should achieve a U-value of 0.25 W/m²K. Less if possible, to meet Building Regulation standards. The U-value is a measure of how quickly heat will travel through the floor. To achieve this standard, the Energy Saving Trust advises installing at least 70mm of high-performance foam insulation, or 150mm of mineral wool. This will vary depending on insulation material and brand chosen, as well as floor type, shape and size.

The post The best floor insulation options for your home appeared first on Ideal Home.

A DIYer has given her kitchen a totally new look by applying gold leaf to the backsplash. Kelly shared her gold leaf kitchen tile makeover on her Instagram, and it just goes to show what a difference a budget update can make.

Before, the square wall tiles in her kitchen were an inoffensive cream. Now, they catch the light beautifully while bringing a whole lot of personality to her kitchen ideas.

Before

Image credit: @pink_ink_andsage

Kelly’s open shelves are brimming with pink Le Creuset, thrifted finds and some pretty potted plants. She had also layered wooden chopping boards and trays to add visual interest to this hardworking area of the kitchen.

After giving it a lot of thought, Kelly (who you can follow @pink_ink_andsage) decided to go for gold in her kitchen. To bring her gold kitchen tile ideas to life, she ordered some gold leaf sheets, £4.79 for 100 pieces at Amazon.

To apply the gold leaf, the interiors lover bought some gilding adhesive resin, £11.59 at Amazon. This came with two brushes and protective gloves.

After

Image credit: @pink_ink_andsage

For less than £20, Kelly has brought colour and a feeling of glamour to her kitchen. We believe every room of the home will benefit from a touch of gold – or some kind of metallic element.

We love how the light dances on the surface of the golden tiles. They also create a focal point.

Kelly is updating her kitchen in stages to make it more manageable and avoid creating too much mess. Sharing the gold leaf kitchen tile makeover with her followers, she says, ‘Phase one started and I love it like absolutely love it.

Image credit: @pink_ink_andsage

‘I had my reservations but I know with the cabinets painted it’s going to look AMAZING,’ Kelly adds.

The thrifty DIYer says that she was ready to rip the tiles down and start again, but we think she’s really made the most of the existing tiles by giving them a gold revamp. Have you been inspired by this gold leaf kitchen tile makeover?

The post This gold leaf kitchen tile makeover only cost £20 appeared first on Ideal Home.

Like many household items, your boiler is one of those things that can degrade in effectiveness as the years go on. As such, knowing the answer to the question ‘how old is my boiler?’ is important for both the general efficiency of your home heating system and your energy bills. An older boiler could even be bumping up your heating costs.

Figuring out the age of your boiler can be especially helpful if you’ve just moved home too, as it may not be clear how new (or not!) the one in place is.

So how can you work out how old your boiler is? And what should you actually do when you know? We spoke to experts to find out…

Image credit: Worcester Bosch

Three ways to find out your boiler’s age

There are a few of simple ways to discover the age of your boiler. They are:

1. Look for the serial number

According to Matthew Jenkins, heating expert at MyJobQuote, this is the easiest way to find out the age of your boiler. ‘The serial number can be found in either your boiler’s installation manual or on the front or side of the boiler itself,’ he says. It will be a series of numbers and letters and will look a bit like a barcode. Within this, you’ll find the installation year.

Nick Tandy, Head Engineer at Toasti explains what to do if you’re struggling to decipher the serial number when you find it. ‘Most companies will have a guide or advice on how to read these serial numbers to determine age, if you have a branded boiler.’

2. Visit the industry database

Louise Murton, Customer Service Director at Baxi Boilers shares that you can visit the boiler industry PCDB database. All you need to do is input the type of boiler you have, the brand name, model name, and model qualifier, if you know it. ‘This will then tell you when your boiler was first manufactured, and the final year of manufacture if it is no longer made,’ she reveals.

3. Call your boiler provider

If you’re struggling with either of the above methods, you could also call the company who manufactured your boiler, to see if they can check their records. They should be able to tell you exactly when your boiler was installed and as such, how old it is now.

It’s worth noting that most boilers now should only be as old as 17, at most. ‘In 2005 the Building Regulations changed, and all boilers installed had to be condensing, or high efficiency,’ says Louise Murton. ‘Boilers made prior to 2005, although few and far between these days, are standard efficiency. That makes them much more costly to run.’

Image credit: Baxi Boilers

Now I know how old my boiler is, what should I do?

1. Get it serviced

However old your boiler is, it’s imperative to get a yearly service to ensure it’s still running safely and efficiently. How often a boiler should be serviced depends on your living arrangements, but Nick Paulson, heating expert at PlumbNation, recommends a yearly assessment. ‘Even if everything seems okay with your boiler, you should still get it serviced,’ he explains.

‘Servicing your boiler every 12 months can bring any minor faults or leaks to the attention of the engineer, allowing them to fix any small problems before they manifest into larger and more expensive issues.’

2. Consider a replacement if it’s over 10 years old

Most boilers are designed to last around 10-15 years, though when to replace a boiler will vary depending on how often you use yours and how well you’ve looked after it (e.g how often it has been serviced). If yours is older than that, it’s well worth investing in a new model. This is because it likely won’t be as efficient, or as financially sensible as it once was.

‘According to the Energy Saving Trust, you could save up to £315 a year on your energy bills if you replace an old inefficient gas boiler,’ says Louise Murton.

Ted Leahy, Head of Service Excellence at HomeServe, adds: ‘Older boilers are just not as energy efficient as newer ones. The way older models are built and operate means that they need to burn more gas in order to get the same heat output.’

3. Replace it for safety reasons

Replacing a boiler that’s edging towards the 10-year mark can give you peace of mind that yours won’t break down, which older types are more likely to do. It could be worth doing to avoid potentially dangerous issues developing, too. The older it is, the more faults it’s likely to have. Faults could put it at higher risk of potentially fatal carbon monoxide leaks, for example.

4. Perform regular health checks yourself – even on younger boilers

Outside of the boiler’s age, it’s worth doing regular health checks on your boiler and your heating system yourself. Keep it as clean as possible to prevent dust build-up, and try to prevent pipes around the house from freezing. Be sure to regularly bleed your radiators as well. It’s also worth keeping an ear out for odd noises, too, which can sometimes indicate issues.

Get a free quote for a new boiler

Ideal Home has partnered with boilerguide.co.uk to provide a free quote for your new appliance.

The post How old is my boiler? Three simple ways to find out appeared first on Ideal Home.