It is worth giving some proper thought to how to insulate a floor. Depending on the age of your property, floors often allow heat to escape. Now’s the time to consider ways to insulate your home on a budget. If you’re planning to keep costs down and insulate the floor yourself, you firstly need to work out what type of floor structure you have. This will determine the best materials and technique to use to complete the job.

Thankfully installing the best floor insulation can help put a stop this, making your home warmer and more eco-friendly. According to the Energy Saving Trust, insulating under the floorboards of a ground-floor detached house could help save approximately £85 on energy bills.

What type of floor do you have?

Older homes are more likely to have suspended timber floors. This means you have a crawl space underneath your ground floor. ‘If it’s a type of ground floor where timber joists are supported by foundations or load bearing walls of a home, then wooden floorboards are secured to the top of the joists, says Bradley Hirst, technical services manager at Knauf Insulation. ‘This creates a space underneath the floorboards for ventilation.’

One way to check, rather than lift up and potentially damage your floor covering in the process, is to look if there are air bricks or ventilation bricks on the outside wall(s) of your house. If there are, and they’re below floor level it’s highly likely that you have a suspended floor.

In contrast, newer homes tend to have ground floors made of solid concrete.

How to insulate a floor – a step-by-step guide

Image credit: Future plc/Simon Whitmore

When looking at how to insulate a floor, follow these steps:

1. Work out how much insulation you need

As a guide, measure the length and width of the room in metres, and multiply that number to get the area in square metres. ‘This will give you the amount you need plus a little extra when taking the width of the joists into account,’ says Thomas Goodman, property and construction expert at MyJobQuote.

2. Prepare and clear your space

Insulating your floor will require you to either temporarily take up your existing floor covering. Care needs to be taken when pulling it up, or completely replacing it with a new surface.

To prep a solid concrete floor, make sure you clean, dust and vacuum up any dirt or debris to ensure the insulation can be fitted evenly. ‘You’ll need to remove any skirting on the walls, too, as the floor will be at a higher height once the insulation is added,’ says Thomas Goodman.

With suspended timber floors, you need to ensure there are no issues with ventilation. Otherwise, this which could lead to fungus growth and timber rot. Check there isn’t any debris obstructing airflow and make sure there aren’t any loose nails that could damage insulation when fitted. ‘You also need to ensure that any insulation you install doesn’t block the air bricks,’ says Thomas Goodman.

3. Make sure you have the right equipment

You’ll need PPE clothing equipment. Check the manufacturer’s website of your chosen insulation for a recommended list. As a guide, full length overalls, safety gloves and glasses, as well as a respiratory mask will all help to protect you while carrying out the job. You will also need a carpenter pencil and tape measure to help cut your insulation to the correct size. Depending on what insulation you’re using, you will need either scissors, a small saw or a knife to cut through the material, as well as either a stapler, hammer, glue or drill and screws, for securing the insulation in place.

4. How to insulate a floor – solid concrete

Image credit: Future plc/Amanda Turner

Wondering how to insulate a concrete floor? There are lots of materials available to you when installing insulation on a solid floor. The most popular tends to be rigid foam boards.

Before installing, it’s recommended that a damp-proof membrane is added to prevent moisture build-up. Once laid, measure the width of the room and cut your boards to size ready to fit. ‘We recommend starting in one corner and placing your first board flush with both corners of the room. Lay the next board side by side with the first board and offset it in a brick-work pattern. Cut any boards to fit so that the floor is covered, with each board pushed up to the previous ones,’ says Thomas Goodman.

Once finished, the floor should be neatly covered in insulation with no gaps. Next, lay tongue and groove chipboard on top, leaving a 10mm gap around the edge of the wall for skirting. Glue together and wipe away excess glue to keep the floor level.

‘The insulation boards do not need to be attached in any way as they are laid flat on top of the damp-proof membrane. Then the chipboard is placed on top of the insulation boards. The chipboard should be glued together to prevent slippage but no further attachment should be necessary,’ advises Thomas Goodman.

If using multi-foil, simply lay the product directly on to the solid floor and butt joint any edges together and seal over with tape.

‘Once the insulation is laid and joined together it will generally keep its location very well while you’re installing your chosen flooring on top,’ says William Bown, managing director of SuperFoil Insulation. ‘You could also add a layer of ply over the insulation before flooring to give a better overall finish,’ he says.

5. How to insulate a floor – suspended timber

Image credit: Future plc/Dominic Blackmore

There are two ways to install insulation for a suspended timber floor, and which one you choose will depend on your building set up.

If there is crawl space under your floorboards, or a cellar below, you can install insulation from below. It might be easier to use rigid foam boards or multifoil insulation in this instance. Simply measure and cut them to size and then push the boards into the spaces between the joists until they are flush with the floor above. If using multifoil, you’ll staple it into place. Then nail battens to the joists underneath to provide support and to help keep both types of insulation secure.

If installing from above, mineral wool insulation that is also used in roof and loft insulation tends to be the best material to use. ‘A fibrous ‘breathable’ insulation, such as mineral wool can fit the space under a floor more snugly, reducing air movement and its breathable properties help reduce the risk of rotting timbers, by allowing water moisture to pass through more easily,’ says Chayley Collis at Green Building Store.

Firstly, drape netting over the joists to create a hammock that is deep enough to allow the insulation to sit level with the top of the joists. Staple it in place. Next, cut the insulation to size. It needs to be the same width as the gap between the joists. Push one end in so it fits tightly against the wall. Then unroll it along the length of the joist, tucking it in at the sides. Repeat until all the joists have been filled with insulation.

‘Make sure there are no gaps. And always use a crawl board that spans several joists to prevent treading on and damaging the insulation. Either could affect its thermal performance,’ says Bradley Hirst.

6. Insulate around pipes and radiators

Image credit: Future plc/Colin Poole

If your floor is solid, it’s likely that your pipes will remain above level and exposed. If this is the case, lag them with foam pipe insulation and consider boxing them in to conceal them. ‘Installing foil behind radiators will help insulate them further,’ says Thomas Goodman.

Pipes and cablework run under suspended timber floorboards need to be insulated before you add any layers of floor insulation.

7. Seal gaps

If using mineral wool insulation, you won’t need to seal or tape the product. ‘If installed correctly, the material’s friction fits to the joists and flexes around pipes, preventing any gaps,’ says Bradley Hirst.

However, sealing round gaps is essential when installing multi foil or rigid foam boards. ‘You need to ensure that your new insulation provides an airtight barrier that will not allow draughts to get through,’ says William Bown. ‘With multifoil insulation and rigid foam boards, you can use a foil tape to ensure all gaps, edges, and any penetrations are sealed properly.’

8. Get extra advice on how to insulate a floor

If you don’t feel comfortable insulating the floor yourself, you should get a professional to prepare, measure and fit the insulation for you. Look at  National Insulation Association to sure the installer is a member.

The post How to insulate a floor – a step-by-step guide appeared first on Ideal Home.

This beautiful chest of drawers on legs may look like a colourful retro furniture piece but is, in fact, a gorgeous and bright upcycled furniture idea that cost very little to achieve.

Interiors Influencer, Rachel Verney, @the_shoestring_home, used her DIY skills and love of bold colour to revolutionise this cabinet.

Scalloped painted chest drawers makeover

Before Rachel worked her magic, the colourful cabinet was an old pine chest of drawers. But Rachel, who describes herself as ‘upcycling and interiors mad’ transformed the tired and orange-toned storage into stylish drawers with a striking painted scalloped design.

Before

IronmongeryDirect / @the_shoestring_home

To take the makeover to the next level she attached some Rothley Ltd antique brass look Hairpin legs. ‘I was super happy how this one turned out… Alongside some scallop painted draws they [Rothley’s Hairpin legs] instantly gave the unit a modern look,’ says Rachel

After

IronmongeryDirect / @the_shoestring_home

If you’re keen to give your old chest of drawers a glow-up here’s how Rachel transformed here’s using paint, masking tape and Hairpin legs.

You will need:

• A wooden chest of drawers
• Four individual Rothley Hairpin Legs – Rachel used 350mm in Antique Brass, £17.40 each, from IronmongeryDirect.
• Screwdriver
• Sander / Sandpaper
• Wood Filler (if needed)
• Wood Paint Primer
• Lacquer
• Paint
• Paint Roller / Paint Brushes
• Masking Tape
• Paper, Pencil and Scissors

1. Remove the original legs

It may be a case of unscrewing if that’s how the legs were originally attached, or sawing off if they were glued. Rachel needed to saw the legs off, she then sanded down the area thoroughly afterwards.

2. Prepare the unit – prep is key to having a good finish to your upcycle.

Rachel then filled in any marks or chips fill with wood filler, before sanding down the whole cabinet. Rachel’s dresser onlyneeded a very fine grade sandpaper to lightly sand, so the paint sticks nicely.

The next step is to prime the unit. Most of the best paints for furniture have built-in primer, it’s always good idea to use a primer to get the best finish possible.

Make sure to use the correct primer, for the green tone of this project upcycle, Rachel used a grey primer as the base. She used a mini foam roller for even coverage, and left it to dry for at least 4 hours.

3. Create paper template to draw on the scallop design.

IronmongeryDirect / @the_shoestring_home

For this scallop design, Rachel created a template by drawing a circle on a piece of card, three times. She cut these out neatly to use as a guide for the scallop-shaped template. Using a ruler and pencil, she lined up the template in relation to where the handles would go.

She them traced around the outside of the templact and marked of with masking tape so it was ready to paint.

4. Time to paint

Rachel then painted with her chosen colours using the same mini foam roller to achieve a smooth finish. She let the paint dry fully before adding two more coats of paint and painting the handles.

5. Attach the hairpin legs

IronmongeryDirect / @the_shoestring_home

Rachel, then attached those stylish hairpin legs as a finishing touch. She used a ruler to make sure the legs are equally positioned and marked the position with a pencil. She then screwed the new legs in place with a screwdriver.

Finally, she re-attach all the hardware and added a coat of  lacquer the unit to protect her finished project.

Rachel’s top upcycling tips:

• Planning and preparation are key. Try and make a plan for your design, winging it tends to end in disaster. Don’t cut corners on prep either, if you make sure that everything is well sanded/filled you will end up with a professional finish.
• Before you start, make certain that you have all the tools you need. I’ve lost count of the amount of times I’ve been caught out mid-project when I couldn’t find something. Always best to check you have everything you need first.
• Don’t be afraid to try bold colours or quirky designs. The beauty of up-cycling is that you can really stamp your own style onto a pre-loved item. Go wild!

The quirky paint colour combination in bubblegum pink and rich sea green looks incredible set against a wallpapered palm print back-drop. Will you be giving this project a go?

The post You’d never know this retro inspired chest of drawers used to be an old pine chest of drawers appeared first on Ideal Home.

The Kärcher WD 6 P Premium wet and dry vacuum cleaner is a powerful beast of a machine that will soon become your best pal, particularly if you’re tackling a major renovation and/or are DIY mad. The Kärcher WD 6 is the newest iteration of this popular brand’s wet and dry collection, which also includes cordless models and more compact, albeit less powerful, designs.

It is designed for use inside and out, and for both wet and dry applications. Gardeners will love the blowing function for clearing leaves out of gravel, motorists can make quick work of valeting their vehicles and aquarists can even use it to change the water in their fish tanks. We tested the Kärcher WD 6 for three weeks and tackled various hardcore cleaning tasks to see how it performed.

Read on to discover what we thought of the Kärcher WD 6 and whether you really need this out-sized appliance in your vacuum collection. Speaking of vacuum cleaners… whilst you’re here, it may be worth you (also) checking out our best vacuum cleaners buyer’s guide to see some top picks for cleaning carpets and hard floors.

Ideal Home rated: 4 out of 5 stars

While it may resemble an overgrown Minion, its flexibility and power really does make it worth making room for a Kärcher WD 6 in your home (or preferably in the garage). To be clear, this machine is not designed to replace your domestic Dyson, but rather be the vacuum you reach for when you don’t want to break your Dyson! It will breezily remove renovating rubble, sawdust, muddy water and major dirt from your life, and the power tool function is a definite plus is you’re frequently found in DIY mode.

Reasons to buy:

• Powerful
• Heavy duty
• On-board tool storage
• Power socket
• Blower function

Reasons to avoid: 

• Heavy
• Static shock can be an issue

Kärcher WD 6 P Premium Wet and Dry Vacuum Cleaner

Image credit: Kärcher

Specs:

• Capacity: 30L
• Power type: mains
• Cord length: 8m
• Hose length: 2.2m
• Wattage: 1300W
• Dimensions: L41.8 x W38.2 x H69.3 cm
• Weight: 9.6kg
• Accessories included: Filter bag, Flat pleated filter, Accessory storage bar, Crevice nozzle, Flexible hose and adapter for attaching handheld tools like sanders.

Who will the Kärcher WD 6 suit?

Sold as the perfect vacuum to tackle all the hardcore jobs your indoor vacuum can’t handle, the Kärcher WD 6 will suit DIY enthusiasts, gardeners, and anyone with a car, especially if they also have a garage to put it in. Although it’s a bit too unwieldy and bulky to be used daily indoors, it will come into its own should your washing machine flood, when stripping wallpaper or for clearing up any pet-related disasters.

Testing the Kärcher WD 6

My husband and I are nearly at the end of our fourth (and hopefully final) renovation project – a detached Victorian house in Devon, where he has built his cabinetmaking workshop at the bottom of the garden. We used the Kärcher WD 6 to tackle a few clear-up jobs that had been building up over the winter, both indoors and out. Over three weeks, we burned through so much cleaning, including:

• Dirt and debris from the patio
• Sawdust in the workshop (by the tree-load)
• Yet more sawdust when using the hand-sander
• Two cars and a van
• Muck and hair from under three pet crates
• And emptied the pond

Unboxing

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

The Kärcher WD 6 is neatly packaged in cardboard with a really satisfying absence of pointless plastic. I had a little moment when I feared the hose had been left behind, before I found it curled up inside the vacuum!

Setting up

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

Setting up was fairly intuitive and I didn’t really need to look at the instructions as it was pretty obvious what went where. However, they are picture-based so if you’ve never seen a cylinder vacuum before you won’t struggle to follow how to connect the hose, floor nozzle and accessories holder. Opening the Kärcher WD 6 to put on the dust bag is a simple affair too; just pull the handle right down and the lid lifts off. I did struggle to get the wheels attached – they’re push-in – but with a bit of perseverance and brute force, they clicked into place.

What is the Kärcher WD 6 like to use?

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

With the machine all set up, it was time to start vacuuming. The first task I tackled was a good clean up in the workshop that my cabinetmaker husband has built at the bottom of our garden. There is a team of four makers working there, who use soft brooms to sweep away the bigger piles of sawdust and offcuts etc while they work, plus there are numerous hoses for sucking sawdust directly from the machinery and out to the wood-pellet maker. So, we’re not talking huge volumes of solid sawdust; this task was more about getting all the fine dirt and dust that a regular broom leaves behind. The guys were very happy to hand over the job to me!

Dry mode

To operate the Kärcher WD 6 in dry mode, you should first choose whether to use a dust bag. If you’ve got a huge area of debris to cover (e.g. a patio covered in autumn leaves), you’ll quickly fill a dust bag, which could wind up expensive. Replacement dust bags cost around £14.99 for four. In this instance you’d be wise to go bagless and enjoy the full 30L capacity without having to change bags.

However, as mentioned, our workshop floor (and probably most garage floors belonging to keen DIYers) contains fine sawdust, and general dirt-based dust, and the advice for cleaning any fine dust (including plaster and cement powder), is to use the dust bag to help prevent the filter from clogging up quickly and make the vacuum easier to empty and generally keep it clean inside. This is a standard style dust bag, albeit the biggest I’ve ever come across, that slots over the hose inlet inside the cylinder and self-seals with a thin rubber seal.

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

Once the lid is back on, and the handle pointing up to lock the lid in place, simply turn the rotating on/off switch to max and feel the power! The advantage of using the Kärcher WD 6 over a broom (so retro) on our workshop floor was the results were much, much better. The vacuum is clearly powerful and made light work of getting into all the nooks and crannies, too.

I also used the blowing function to push sawdust out from under some of the bigger machines where I couldn’t get the vacuum hose far enough underneath. To do this, you just have to move the hose from the main outlet to the blowing outlet further up and turn it on. The blowing function would also be useful for airbeds and other inflatables, as well as blowing away leaves in Autumn. I didn’t clean the whole workshop, that would have taken all day and isn’t something anyone in a domestic setting would be likely to do (my excuse). But I did a good 1.5 hours, covering an area about the size of a double garage, and the dust bag was pretty much full by the time I lost my mojo. I think there was more sawdust lurking under the machines than I’d anticipated.

Image credit: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

Highlights worth mentioning include the impressive 8m-long cable which minimised the number of times I had to move sockets, and the super smooth castor wheels on the base (there are five) that make the Kärcher WD 6 so easy to pull along. It’s also very easy to switch between the crevice nozzle and floor attachment, without excessive tugging.

One slight downside for me was the number of static shocks I experienced. I’d guestimate about a dozen before I put on some gloves, took off my jumper and avoided touching any metal parts. In the Kärcher’s defence, I am especially prone to them and the dry, filtered air in the workshop, combined with my shaggy wool jumper probably didn’t help matters.

Wet mode

I tested two jobs to check out the performance in wet mode; vacuuming out the water after cleaning the car foot mats and emptying our small pond. Oh and also a fair few wee puddles, curtesy of the pup. The flat pleated filter is suitable for wet and dry use so there was no need to remove it before starting but I did check there was no dust bag inside. Once the dust bag was removed, I started with the car mats. Flipping the foot attachment to wet (rubber strips instead of brushes) using the rocker switch, I vacuumed them in the same way I would if they were dry. I was impressed by the suction, which felt seriously strong; a point proved by the impressive volume of muddy water in the cylinder when I was done with just the first mat.

Image credit: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

The pond, which I was emptying because our puppy was taking far too many baths (then running through the house) so we’d decided to plant a tree there instead, was next. Without the Kärcher WD 6 I would have had to bucket out as much as I could, then use a hose syphon that involved sucking the end and potentially ending up with a mouthful of stagnant pond water. Yuck. In less than 10 minutes I had cleared the pond, emptying the cylinder three or four times in the nearest storm drain. Given my shoulder injury I was very grateful for the handy drain screw in the base of the cylinder, which meant I didn’t have to lift it fully loaded to tip the water out.

Using the power tool attachment function

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

The power tool feature is another stroke of pure genius, which I tested with an orbital sander. I simply plugged the tool into the socket on the front of the Kärcher WD 6, then added the smaller tool hose onto the end of the main hose, using the adapter connection to fix it to the vent at the back of the sander. I didn’t need to look at the instruction book to do this as it’s not my first rodeo with this type of thing, but the instructions are again picture-based and easy to understand.

The especially clever part is that the suction automatically stops and starts when the tool is switched on and off, so you don’t need to activate two machines. If you do any sander or power saw-based DIY in the home, the Kärcher WD 6 would make a huge difference to the levels of dust in the air, and eventually covering every single surface. You can also buy a drill attachment that catches the dust that falls when you drill into a wall.

What else can you do with the Kärcher WD 6?

You can basically vacuum anything you like, wet or dry. I used it to clear the wet leaves from around the patio, clean the interiors of our cars (a loathsome job made much easier by the powerful suction and long-reach crevice nozzle) and even suctioned up poop from the crevices of the rabbit hutch. Inside, I cleaned beneath the dog crates, which were embarrassingly filthy, and then had a quick vacuum round the rest of the ground floor while I was on the case.

Image credit: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

I usually use a combination of cordless vacuum and robot vacuum downstairs and was surprised by how much the Kärcher WD 6 picked up given the robot had already done a full circuit before breakfast. Let’s not forget the many times I used the Kärcher WD 6’s wet suction powers to help clear up puppy accidents. In combination with an antibacterial cleaning spray of course!

Storage and maintenance

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

Storage isn’t exactly the Kärcher WD 6’s forte. It’s a big beast, and with all the will in the world, you can’t get away from the fact it will take up a lot of space if you want to store it in the house. A garage is the best place for this bad boy, ideally an attached garage so you can grab it the minute you fail to let the puppy out again. There are plenty of hose, cord and accessories clips on the back, so it tucks together neatly but it’s still the size of your average toddler! I would also have appreciated a couple more nozzle tools, especially one with a brush, but the Kärcher WD 6 has standard 35mm suction tubes so will work with most vacuum attachments out, plus you can buy them as an extra.

Image credits: Future Plc/Linda Clayton

Maintenance is a dream. The Kärcher WD 6 has a filter cleaning system that sucks fine dust out of the flat pleated filter without having to remove it. This is particularly useful for quickly restoring full power if you’ve been vacuuming high levels of dust. Once the hose has been inserted in the hose-shape rings above the filter, you just press the large filter cleaning button two or three times. The filter is also very easy to remove for a more thorough clean, which can include washing it under running water (and fully drying before putting it back in) if it’s really congested.

Keeping the filter clean definitely makes a difference to the power levels so it’s worth cleaning regularly. Kärcher says after every use but I’d say that would be a significant use, like cleaning the entire garage or clearing up after wallpaper stripping. Once a week worked for me (plus a quick filter blast after the workshop job), but it was easy to tell when it needed doing due to loss in suction. Similarly, you could easily tell when the dust bag needed changing because of the change in motor tone – which became higher pitched – and of course reduced suction.

Ideal Home’s verdict: is the Kärcher WD 6 worth the money?

Image credit: Kärcher

The Kärcher WD 6 is a genuinely good buy, if you do a lot of DIY or other messy jobs, have outdoor space and a garage or garden shed to store it in. Puppy optional. It is not a great vacuum choice for a third-floor apartment that’s already beautifully decorated!

It is incredibly robust and offers impressive suction (and blowing) with a huge capacity cyclinder that’s easy to empty whether the contents are wet or dry I have never had use of a wet vacuum before, and I was surprised by how many jobs I found for it to do during my three-week test period. In terms of price, this is the top and most powerful model in the Wet & Dry range and well worth its £220 (approx.) price tag.

I did struggle with static electricity in the workshop but nowhere else, so it was probably more an environmental issue than the Kärcher WD 6. Also, I didn’t find the floor head very good on interior carpets – no glide – but, to be very clear, this vacuum isn’t designed for normal everyday cleaning of the ‘quick-the-inlaws-are-coming’ variety. Finally, it could benefit from a few more accessories, but they can be bought separately. The Kärcher car interior cleaning kit set looks especially useful.

About this review, and the reviewer

Linda Clayton is a freelance interiors journalist specialising in kitchens, bathrooms and home tech. She is a serial renovator, currently on her fourth project, and has tested many home appliances, DIY tools, mowers and other garden power tools in the last 20 years, often with help from her cabinetmaker husband.

She was sent this product to test in a home setting, which is always our preference, but Linda was deemed a particularly good candidate to push it to the max because she always has plenty of decorating on the go, lots of outdoor space that needs tidying, and three mucky vehicles to clean. Oh, and there is a massive woodworking workshop at the bottom of her garden!

We are not given any compensation for our reviews, but may be allowed to keep the product, meaning we can test it over a greater length of time, and update if required.

The post Kärcher WD 6 P Premium Wet and Dry Vacuum Cleaner review appeared first on Ideal Home.

As the weather warms up, we’ll all want to spend more time in our gardens making now the perfect time to get things spic and span. First up is the deck! If you’re fortunate enough to have decking, Follow our easy step-by-step guide on how to clean decking to get your outdoor entertaining zone ready for the months ahead.

Whilst summer hasn’t quite set upon us, now is a good time to clean the decking. An annual wash during the winter months can breathe new life into any garden decking idea. Preserving the integrity of the wood and ultimately help to prevent costly repairs.

‘As decking is outdoors, it is constantly exposed to the elements, particularly in winter, which can take its toll,’ says Matthew Brown, Technical Consultant for Sadolin & Sandtex. ‘Exposure to the elements can lead to an accumulation of dirt, mould and algae. If maintenance isn’t carried out during the winter months, this of course creates a bigger job further down the line.’

So start now and follow our easy steps on how to clean decking with or without a pressure washer.

How to clean decking: Step-by-step guide

Image credit: Future

A decking area provides a dedicated entertaining area for any outdoor space – whether its attached to the house, at the end of the lawn or even in the form of a balcony, decking creates a welcoming spot to enjoy the company of friends, or relax on your own.

Unfortunately decking can end up being slippery (and quite dangerous) if it’s not taken care of. Algae and moss can grow and form over the surface of the decking, making it difficult to walk on. You can stop the growth getting this bad with regular maintenance. But if it’s already set in don’t fear, as there’s plenty you can do to get it looking clean and new again.

Moss or algae aside, a garden deck, wooden or composite, needs a good clean now and then. And how to clean decking and deck railing ideas is actually really easy when you follow some simple steps; it doesn’t require lots of expensive products, either.

1. Get prepared for how to clean decking

Start by removing everything from your decking – furniture, pots, your barbecue, ornaments, and everything else. Pop them somewhere where they won’t be in the way for a day or so.

Whilst the weather is unpredictable, it’s best to work when the day is clear, and the deck is totally dry; allow a few days to pass since a downpour. Give the complete decking a thorough sweep, using a brush to get debris from between the cracks as best you can.

There’s a smart ‘Decking Brush Set’ from Coopers of Stortford that boasts a wide, curved brush-head to first gather leaves and debris. Then a rugged flat brush-head to scrub away decking moss and a compact head with a steel hook to turf out tough weeds and moss from between grooves – nifty!

Buy now: Decking Brush Set, £29, Coopers of Stortford

2. Apply a cleaning solution

Image credit: Future / Polly Eltes

For a gentler clean to remove surface dirt and cobwebs, you can use a solution of washing up liquid in warm water. Be careful not to over scrub with anything harshly abrasive, and avoid rubbing against the grain, as that can leave marks.

‘Whilst you can use soap water, a specialist product such as Jeyes Patio and Decking Power is likely to be more effective to get rid of stubborn moss and algae,’ says Sophie Herrmann, spokesperson for Jeyes Fluid. ‘Mix it with water, pour it on and leave it to do its work.’

Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how to apply, timings and how to rinse away.

3. Blast away grime with a pressure washer

Depending how much moss and algae has built up will determine whether or not you need the addition of a pressure washer. You could use the cleaning solution alone, or use a power washer as well.

‘Tackling your decking with a pressure washer will spray away any moss and grime that might have built up,’ says Sophie Hermann. ‘Ensure that the setting on the pressure washer is suitable for your decking. Otherwise, it could potentially damage the surface of the decking’

4. For an even deeper clean, use a stripper

If your decking is particularly dirty, then a more stringent cleaning may be required. Ronseal Decking Stripper will leave your decking pristine. ‘For this, you’ll need to wear some gloves and give the tin a shake before use,’ says Jimmy Englezos, Senior Product Manager for Ronseal.

‘Apply the stripper to your decking with a decent sized brush – don’t be shy and ensure you apply a thick layer. It takes around 30 minutes to work. However, if it’s a hot day you’ll need to keep an eye of patches that are drying out and re-apply a layer where needed. Keep scrubbing with warm water and then wash it all off with a hose, and you’re done!’.

Buy now: Ronseal Decking Stripper, £51.65, Amazon

How do I clean the decking without a pressure washer?

Image credit: Future

If you don’t have a pressure washer, it’s not the end of the world. For a start, if you have a composite deck, you shouldn’t really be using a pressure washer anyway – read on below to find out why. And for a wooden deck you can still get it looking sharp with some regular household cleaning products and some elbow grease.

Depending on the dirtiness of your decking and how much mould and mildew has formed, you could do just as good a job with washing liquid detergent. Pour four litres of warm water into a bucket and stir in 250ml of laundry detergent. Apply the warm solution liberally onto the already cleared and swept deck. Work it into the surface with a broom. Allow the solution to sit on the decking for ten to fifteen minutes and then rinse thoroughly using your garden hose.

Or you could try Cuprinol Decking Cleaner which is a powerful detergent specifically formulated to remove dirt, grease, algae and mould.

How do I clean composite decking?

Unlike wooden decking, composite alternatives actually require less regular maintenance so the task isn’t an unduly difficult one. According to composite decking experts, NeoTimber, decking of this kind can actually be cleaned using general everyday household products. In most cases, a light soapy solution applied and then rinsed with a garden hose on a light setting is adequate for a composite deck.

‘There aren’t any magic solutions or treatments that we’d recommend for treating your composite decking,’ the NeoTimber experts say. ‘In fact, with a bit of elbow grease, household cleaning items will be sure to do the trick and get your composite deck clean and tidy ready for the summer months.’

Image credit: Future PLC

Start by clearing the deck of all items. Brush away any debris from nooks and crannies by giving the surface a thorough sweep. Next, mix a bucket of warm water with washing up liquid to create a warm soapy solution. Apply directly onto the deck and clean with a soft bristled brush – a clean, dry broom will do the trick. Use a soft cloth or sponge in hard-to-reach areas, then rinse and allow to dry.

One thing you should definitely not do is use a pressure washer on a composite deck. It’s softer than natural wood and can be marked and damaged more easily as a result. ‘Depending on the material, a power washer can scar boards if the pressure is too high,’ reveal experts at Trex.

‘If the power washing becomes too intense, it can even chip the material. If you damage your composite deck with a vigorous power wash, it can affect the warranty, which is generally not covered.’

They recommend a routine clean of your decking every three to six months to clear away dirt, mud and soil that can accumulate and sit on your composite decking over the course of time.

How do I keep my decking looking good for longer?

Once you’ve spent the time cleaning, scrubbing and painting your decking, you’ll want to ensure it stays looking great for as long as possible. Whilst your decking will naturally take some general wear and tear from use, there are things you can do to limit damage.

‘To minimise damage, we recommend using rubber feet for any deck furniture,’ advice experts at Gripsure. ‘In addition, any planters, tubs or plant pots should be raised on blocks to allow air circulation and avoid mould growth. We also recommend using metal or plastic trays to catch and retain any excess liquid when watering plants.’

For hot tub decking ideas consider the same principle, be mindful of water spills – perhaps seeking an underlay to protect the decking below.

Image credit: Future PLC

The final flourish to perk up tired decking is to give it a lick of fresh paint or use a stain. You might like to leave the decking untreated, but a coating of a protective product will keep it looking fresh for longer. A layer of protection means it’ll be able to withstand mould, algae and mildew. Ensure the decking is totally dry from its cleaning before you start, and brush away any leaves or debris that might’ve found its way there since cleaning.

You can find garden paint ideas and stains in a range of colours, which will totally transform the decking. ‘Sadolin’s new Garden Colours Range consists of eight beautifully subtle shades, that can be divided into four on-trend colour families – green, blue, grey and neutral – meaning there really is a palette to suit every style’, says Matthew Brown, Technical Consultant for Sadolin.

Ronseal also has a great palette of colours available in its Ultimate Protection Decking Paint. We particularly loves Sage, which will achieve a very on-trend look.

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