The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) have added China’s Spring Festival to its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The recognition celebrates the Spring Festival’s important role in fostering social practices and community spirit as the Chinese people welcome their traditional New Year. The designation will further boost Shanghai as a must-visit destination during this year ’s Spring Festival celebrations .

Wego, the number 1 travel app and the largest online travel marketplace in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA), has partnered with Bahrain Tourism and Exhibitions Authority and Exhibitions Authority (BTEA) to spotlight the Kingdom of Bahrain as a premier travel destination. This collaboration aims to promote Bahrain’s unique cultural heritage, top attractions, and cutting-edge tourism innovations to global travelers.

The Spirit of Speyside Whisky Festival has established itself as one of the world’s largest, with almost 500 events across 89 venues in 6 days kicking off this year from April 30th.

A preview of all the events launched on 24th January, with tickets going on sale from 12 noon next Monday 3rd February.

Returning to Istanbul was such a delight.

I love this city; it’s one of my favourites in the world.

Truly, Istanbul is a destination like no other: a sprawling metropolis where continents meet and cultures collide, all against a backdrop of towering minarets and pesky seagulls. From the mosques to the cathedrals, the palaces to the street carts, and the bazaars to the boutiques, contrasts are everywhere here.

One minute you’re exploring an Byzantine cistern that’s been standing since 532 AD and the next, you’re riding the metro through Istanbul’s modern underground. One day, you might find yourself stopping to admire a centuries-old Ottoman fountain in Europe, then hop on a ferry to Asia to hunt down bold street art in hipster neighbourhoods. You might spend your morning sampling Turkish coffee in a centuries-old cafe, then by evening, be sipping espresso martinis on a rooftop bar, watching the city light up.

Apparently, I really liked the contrasts in Istanbul.

Whether you’re here for the history, the food, the vibes, or the contrasts, I promise you’re going to find Istanbul absolutely delightful. So pack your curiosity, bring a good appetite, and get ready to fall beneath this city’s spell.

Here’s how to spend three days in Istanbul.

Seven Quick Tips for Your Trip

• I recommend staying in Sultanahmet if you’re a first-time visitor to Istanbul. It’s where the majority of the tourist attractions are, and this itinerary is written as though that’s where you’ll be staying. We stayed in Tin Suites Hotel, loved it, and would recommend it. I have a full review of the property at the end of this guide.
• Buy an IstanbulKart from the machines at the airport as soon as you arrive. This transport card allows you to freely travel on the trains, trams, metros, ferries, and buses around the city, so you’ll be using it a dozen times a day.
• Istanbul is home to many, many mosques, all of which will require you to cover up in order to enter. If you’re a woman, bring a headscarf with you whenever you leave the hotel and avoid wearing clothes that show your shoulders and knees. You can borrow coverings at the mosques, but it’s much nicer to wear your own clothes!
• I was able to pay by card for 90% of my purchases, but it’s still helpful to have a little cash, whether it’s for topping up your IstanbulKart or grabbing a snack from a street vendor.
• I tried three different eSIM services in Istanbul and found AloSIM to have the best coverage and fastest speeds.
• Bring comfortable walking shoes and prepare for plenty of steps: they don’t call Istanbul the City of Seven Hills for nothing!
• If somebody drops a brush at your feet, do not pick it up! I repeat: do not pick up any brushes from the ground! This is one of the biggest scams in Istanbul, where a shoe-shiner deliberately drops his brush as he’s walking in front of you. Feel like doing a good deed and handing it back to him? He’ll be forever grateful and start polishing your shoes in repayment — except the repayment is actually him demanding you give him money afterwards. I saw tourists getting caught up in this scam multiple times a day!

With all of that out of the way, grab yourself a steaming cup of tea and prepare to learn all about how to best to spend three days in Istanbul.

Day One: Breakfasts, Bazaars, and Byzantine Wonders

Your first day in Istanbul is going to be all about diving headfirst into some of the city’s most well-known tourist attractions, with a perfect blend of viewpoints, markets, and ancient wonders.

Head Out for My Favourite Turkish Breakfast in the City

If you know just one fact about my travels in Turkey, it’s likely that I am obsessed with Turkish breakfasts: I mention them in every article I write about this country!

As you can see from my photo above, they always present such an interesting mix of flavours, and it makes for such a fun way to start the day. The hotel that I stayed in this time around in Istanbul actually offered a free breakfast, but I skipped it every day — and I’d recommend you do the same — because there are so many better options in this city.

Cafe Privato’s Turkish breakfast contained — deep breath — Turkish flatbread, seasonal jams and marmalades, butter, clotted buffalo milk cream, regional cheeses, olives and olive oil, hazelnut paste, wild black walnut jam, ajuka (a spicy red pepper paste), smashed avocado, eggs, apricots, grilled halloumi, sweet pancakes, cheese pancakes, and sausages.

Fortunately, it’s intended to be shared.

With your stomach now full to the brim, it’s time to hit up our next attraction, which is just four minutes from the cafe.

Swing by the Galata Tower

If you’re looking for some of the best views of Istanbul, you’ll want to kick off your time in the city by heading to the top of the Galata Tower. This is one of the symbols of Istanbul, and can be found on magnets, postcards, and paintings in every souvenir shop across the city. The origins of the tower date back to the 5th century, although its current iteration was built in 1348, which still makes it one of the oldest watchtowers in the world.

These days, the Galata Tower is all about the views, offering an incredible 360-degree lookout over Istanbul. It’s hard to beat the perspective you get from up here: the iconic mosques, the Ottoman palaces, the endless sprawl of rooftops, glistening glass skyscrapers, and shimmering waterways. To use a travel writing cliche, it’s a real mix of old and new.

That said, while the views are impressive, it’s also pretty expensive at €35 per person. If you’d rather save your money for a future activity, you can still enjoy the ambience from the base of the tower; as you can see from my photo, it’s still impressive from ground level. The surrounding Galata neighbourhood is a lovely area to walk around, too, with narrow streets full of cafes and shops.

Take the leisurely 10-minute stroll down the hill until you find yourself in the Karakoy neigbourhood, at the start of Galata Bridge.

People-Watch Along Galata Bridge

Galata bridge stretches over the Golden Horn, offering views of the Bosphorus and Old City that are absolutely perfect for photos (trust me, you’ll want to snap more than a few).

As you walk, you’ll see people fishing off the sides, their lines dangling down into the water below. It’s a bit of a local tradition here, and I always enjoy the air of calmness and patience they bring to an otherwise busy bridge.

You’ll pass dozens of cafes and restaurants underneath the bridge, too, where you should absolutely not be opting to stop for a meal or drink. These eateries are uniformly low-quality and overpriced, and frequented only by tourists. The location might be amazing, but the experience is anything but.

When you reach the end of Galata Bridge, you’ll find yourself in the Eminönü neighbourhood, and from here, your next stop is already visible.

Enter the New Mosque

Controversial opinion here: I think Istanbul’s New Mosque — Yeni Cami — is the most impressive mosque in the city.

It’s true: I think it’s even more beautiful than the far more popular Blue Mosque or Hagia Sophia.

I mean, just look at those colours in my photo! Yeni Cami has one of the most colourful ceilings I’ve seen, yet it has none of the crowds of the more famous monuments.

The mosque is located just a three minute walk from the end of Galata Bridge: take the pedestrian underpass beneath the busy main road and you’ll emerge directly in front of Yeni Cami. (It’s marked on Google Maps as New Mosque).

As this is a mosque, you’ll need to cover up in order to visit. That means men will need to cover their shoulders and knees (t-shirts are fine) and women should cover their legs, arms, chest, and hair, and leggings are not allowed. If the temperatures are soaring and you can’t bear the thought of exploring Istanbul in long pants, you can borrow scarves and sarongs at the entrance to ensure you’re respectfully covered up.

Inside, you’ll find yourself surrounded by colourful tiles, delicate calligraphy, and soaring ceilings, all blending together to give the space such a majestic feel. It’s one of those places that has you in awe of the level of detail that went into its creation. Despite its size, there’s something so peaceful about this specific mosque and I always find myself lingering here longer than I expected, sitting on the carpet and gazing up at that beautiful ceiling.

After you exit the New Mosque, you’re just two minutes away from the Spice Bazaar, where things are going to get a little more chaotic.

Peruse the Spice Bazaar

Strolling through this 17th century market — alternatively known as the Egyptian Market — is a full-on experience. I love walking past the stalls here, taking photos of all the colourful pyramids of spices.

From the moment you step inside, you’ll be greeted by this wave of sweet, smoky, and spicy aromas, with teas, spices, herbs, fruits, nuts, pastries, and sweets overflowing out of every store. There’s so much to see here, and I always enjoy browsing the loose-leaf teas, discovering unique flavours I’d never encountered before.

While the prices are generally higher than elsewhere, and it’s undoubtedly geared towards tourists, the experience of browsing and soaking in the market’s energy is still worth it, even if you’re just window shopping.

Many of the shopkeepers offer free samples of Turkish delights and local teas, so definitely try some of those as you’re passing by — they have such interesting flavours on offer. If you do decide you like any of the samples and would like to buy some as a souvenir, be sure to haggle first! You should expect to pay 30-50% less than the quoted price.

And I’ll warn you now that this was just a mere warm-up for our next activity. Because if you found the Spice Bazaar crowded, just wait until you enter the Grand Bazaar.

Then Get Lost Inside the Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is the definition of chaos and as soon as you step inside, you might find yourself wondering if you should turn right back around and leave. Don’t! It may be crowded, noisy, and confusing, but the Grand Bazaar is an Istanbul icon and there are lots of hidden gems to uncover.

This market is one of the largest and oldest in the world, with its construction dating back to 1455. For centuries, this vast network of covered alleyways has been a hub of trade in Istanbul, and wandering through its bustling corridors feels like stepping into the city’s history, one enthusiastic sales pitch at a time.

Today, the Grand Bazaar is home to over 4,000 shops spread across 61 streets with as many as 400,000 people visiting in a single day. As you might imagine, it’s easy to get lost here, but that’s all part of the fun.

Instead of trying to stick to a strict route throughout the bazaar, embrace the adventure and follow whatever catches your eye. If the crowds start feeling overwhelming, take a break at one of the quieter areas of the market or head to a rooftop café for a view of the bazaar’s terracotta tiles, stretching out in all directions.

Walking inside can feel overwhelming at first, with the scent of spices in the air, the shimmer of gold in shop windows, and the sound of vendors calling out to passing customers.

Everywhere you turn, there’s something to catch your eye: endless stalls selling colourful ceramics, handmade rugs and carpets, leather bags, ornate brass trays, and kaleidoscopic lanterns, plus entire sections dedicated to Turkish sweets, teas, and spices.

Haggling is expected here, so don’t be afraid to negotiate; it’s all part of Turkish culture, and accepting the first price you’re quoted is almost unheard of! Most shopkeepers enjoy the back-and-forth and might even offer you tea while you chat. If in doubt, offer half the quoted price and take it from there; if you’re unsure if you’re getting a good deal, walk away. If the vendor lets you leave, you’ve gone too low; if they chase you down the alleyway, you’ve bargained like a local!

Admire the Ceiling of the Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque is one of those Istanbul landmarks that totally lives up to the hype. And unlike the Hagia Sophia — she said pointedly — it’s completely free to enter.

Once you step inside, you’ll instantly be able to tell why it has its name. However, I will say that it’s not quite as blue as some of the overly-edited photos I’d seen online before entering.

The interior is enormous, and blanketed in 20,000 hand-painted, blue and turquoise tiles. That ceiling? You know how it looks like it’s been painted? Not so! Those are actually thousands of tiles because the entire ceiling is a mosaic. That blew my mind.

Don’t be surprised if you end up spending half an hour inside, just soaking up that magical atmosphere. Dave and I found a quiet section of the floor, away from the crowds, and sat cross-legged for ages, just pointing out all of the small details and admiring the architecture.

Walk Past the Ancient Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius

The Ancient Egyptian Obelisk of Theodosius is one of those incredible relics that just makes you pause and appreciate the history it represents. Standing tall in Sultanahmet Square, this 4,000-year-old stone monument is made from Aswan granite and was brought to the city from Egypt back in 390 AD.

Four thousand years old.

Isn’t it wild to think that this obelisk was already an ancient artefact when it was first transported here? That the obelisk was older in Theodosius’ time than he is to us today?!

The obelisk’s hieroglyphics are surprisingly well-preserved, as you can see from my photo, and they tell the story of an a Egyptian pharaoh’s victory during a battle on the Euphrates.

The base of the Obelisk of Theodosius is just as interesting as the monument itself, featuring carvings added by the Byzantines. If you look closely, you’ll be able to spot scenes depicting Theodosius watching the chariot races at the Hippodrome, plus a dramatic depiction of the monument being raised into place, right where you’re standing.

Take an Evening Stroll Through Arasta Bazaar

Before heading off for for final activity of the day, take half an hour to explore Arasta Bazaar, in Sultanahmet. This small, higher-end market has a completely different vibe to the chaotic Grand Bazaar.

Here, the pace is much more relaxed. There are fewer crowds to content with, way less tat for sale, and the salespeople themselves are a lot less persistent. Instead, you’ll be able to take a look through a range of local crafts, textiles, jewellery, souvenirs, and carpets; this is Turkey after all!

Stop in at the beloved Jennifer’s Hamam if you’re in need of a ethically-sourced, locally-made Turkish towel; Dave’s mum still talks about the softness of the one she bought here years ago! I really liked the handmade jewellery from Divan, and Amphora Handmade Tiles was selling the most beautiful ceramics; I would have absolutely bought some if I’d still had room in my backpack!

Finish With an Evening Visit to the Basilica Cistern

I absolutely adored the hour I spent roaming through Istanbul’s Basilica Cistern. What an absolutely mind-blowing place!

Originally built in the 6th century, this vast, underground reservoir once supplied filtered water to the Great Palace of Constantinople. And when I say vast, I mean it! This is the largest surviving underground cistern in the world. Constructed by 7,000 people, it spans an immense 10,000 square metres in size and can hold a staggering 80,000 cubic metres of water. Supporting its atmospheric ceiling are 336 marble columns, each standing nine metres high.

Given its age, it’s incredible to think how well this structure was built. The Basilica Cistern has managed to withstand an astonishing 22 earthquakes over the centuries, a testament to the engineering brilliance of the Byzantine era.

And I have a recommendation to make here.

There are two different ticket options for the Basilica Cistern.

If you visit during the day, you’ll pay the equivalent €25 to enter. But if you visit at night, you’ll be charged €38. It seems like a no-brainer to go during the day, doesn’t it? I mean, it’s underground; it’s not like the light changes with the sun.

However, having now experienced the cistern in the evening, I have to say that it’s so much better visiting then.

There were no tour groups.

There was no noise.

There were no crowds.

It was just me, Dave, and around 20 other people spread out inside the cistern. It made for such a magical experience to have that serenity while we were there.

Of course, if you don’t think the additional price sounds like it would be worth it, you can visit during the day instead — you’d just need to get there before it closes at 6:30 p.m. It then re-opens for nighttime visits at 7:30 p.m.

Once you step inside the dimly lit chamber, you’re instantly greeted by the sight of hundreds of columns, perfectly spaced above the pool of water below. A raised walkway winds its way through space, allowing you to get up close and personal with the towering columns, occasional drops of water falling on your head. It was such a surreal experience!

One of the highlights for me was seeing the famous Medusa sculptures: two mysterious heads, one upside-down and the other sideways, set at the base of two columns. They add an eerie, otherworldly vibe to the experience, and I had to share a photo so you can see how unsettling they are! What’s even stranger is the fact that these heads were underwater for centuries, with few people even knowing they were there.

The only thing I didn’t like about the cistern was that they’ve filled it with all of these modern art sculptures, and I felt like it took away from the historical atmosphere of the place. I spent most of my time trying to angle my photos to cut the art pieces out of them!

Day Two in Istanbul: Colours, Crowds, and Cruises

For your second day in Istanbul, we’re going to be diving into two of my favourite neighbourhoods: Balat and Fener. These historic districts are a combined UNESCO World Heritage Site, packed with charm, colour, and culture — but especially colour.

We’ll start the day with another fantastic Turkish breakfast, before strolling past antique stores and galleries, admiring street art and the famous rainbow-coloured houses. For lunch, we’ll be tasting one of Istanbul’s most iconic street eats, then wrapping it all up by setting sail on a scenic cruise along the Bosphorus.

Let’s get into more details. 

Opt for Breakfast in Balat

The neighbourhood of Balat is easily accessible from Sultanahmet and elsewhere; simply jump on the T1 tram to Eminönü and then take the T5 tram to Balat. It takes roughly half an hour to get there from Sultanahmet. 

Once your feet are on the ground, head straight to Botein Balat for another one of my favourite Turkish breakfasts. Up on the restaurant’s cosy roof terrace, you’ll have excellent views over the brightly-coloured streets; it’s a lot of fun to sit and watch this eclectic neighbourhood begin to wake up. 

I personally recommend opting for the menemen plate, and especially if you haven’t had menemen before: it’s one of my favourite Turkish dishes!

So, menemen is a rich and flavourful breakfast dish here, made with softly scrambled eggs, juicy tomatoes, and sauteed peppers, all simmered together with aromatic spices. Served piping hot, it’s best enjoyed with fresh, crusty bread — perfect for scooping up every delicious bite. If you’re thinking it sounds similar to a shakshuka, you’d be correct! The main difference is that the eggs are scrambled in a menemen but left poached in a shakshuka.

At Botein Balat, the menemen plate is accompanied by tomatoes, cucumbers, olives, cheeses, jams, spreads, and a generous basket of fresh bread.

Wander the Colourful Streets of Balat

Now that I’m a part-time digital nomad with a home base from which to travel from, I can’t seem to fill my backpack with enough mementos. I’ll be honest with you, though, and share that much of the touristy areas of Istanbul are flooded with mass-produced magnets and trinkets.

That’s part of the reason why I loved Balat, then, as this funky neighbourhood is full to the brim with fun, one-of-a-kind items.

Balart is run by a woman who has dedicated her life to perfecting the art of miniature ceramic houses, painted in the same vibrant colours as those found in the neighbourhood! Sevda Gazozcusu Balat sells sodas first created in the Ottoman era; I loved my lime and bergamot one! Magic Lantern is one of the best antique stores I’ve found in the city, packed with anything from vintage typewriters to old medicine jars to retro Turkish toys, posters, prints, globes and sewing machines.

The neighbourhood of Balat is one in which to take your time, stopping for a coffee (we loved our third-wave brew from the aesthetic Cumbali Kahve), snapping photos of the street art and buildings, and stocking up on souvenirs. 

Head to Merdivenli Yks. to Avoid the Influencers 

As you’re probably aware, when the houses are colourful, the influencers follow. However, the most picturesque street in Balat is still relatively undiscovered, making it a great spot for street photography.

Merdivenli Yks. is a real beauty, with pastel-coloured houses lining the steep cobbled street. It was one of the quieter corners of Balat during my visit, likely because the effort required to climb the hill deters many of the tourists.

Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church is Super Impressive 

Saint Stephen’s Orthodox Church — also known as the Bulgarian Iron Church — is famous for being world’s only surviving cast-iron church. Yes, this church is made entirely out of iron!

The story behind its construction is so fascinating: back in the 19th century it was shipped piece by piece along the Danube and across the Black Sea from Vienna to Istanbul. Over 100 barges were used to transport over 500 tons of iron slabs across Europe!

While you’re inside the church, remember to take a peek at the ceilings and interior walls. You’ll be able make out small patches of rust if you look hard enough, although recent restoration works have covered many of them up.

You can’t walk around too much on the ground floor, but that’s okay, because the views are far better from above. Look for the hidden staircase, then head on up to the balcony. From there, you’ll be able to fully take in the golden iconostasis, as well as the details on the paintings, chandeliers, and iron framework.

Outside, don’t forget to spend some time checking out the church’s intricate facade, into which decorative crosses and floral designs have been cast directly into the iron walls.

Prepare Yourself for Crowds as You Enter Fener

I was surprised by how quickly the atmosphere changed after just a five-minute walk into Fener. While Balat had felt laidback and offbeat, Fener had a distinctly livelier vibe. A fully-discovered-by-tourists vibe.

That said, don’t let the crowds deter you! I actually found Fener was even more beautiful and fascinating than Balat. Plan to spend an hour or two in this part of the city, wandering past colourful houses, stopping by quirky cafes, and tackling that steep hill that takes you up to a picturesque viewpoint.

Some suggestions for how to spend your time:

Stop for a Drink at Aşk Gazozcusu

One of my highlights from Fener was pausing for a drink at the local gazoz vendor: Aşk Gazozcusu.

Gazoz is a traditional Turkish soda that originates from the Ottoman Empire. At one point, every city in Turkey produced its own hyper-local version of gazoz, using mineral water from its land; the flavour varying due to each region’s unique soil composition.

The popularity of gazoz eventually declined, and especially when Coca-Cola introduced its soft drinks to the country’s masses, but I was delighted to learn that it’s now experiencing a resurgence. There’s a gazoz store in Balat that I mentioned above (Sevda Gazozcusu), but I thought Aşk Gazozcusu, in Fener, was even better. If in doubt: try a gazoz at both!

What I loved about Aşk Gazozcusu was both the beautiful displays of colourful bottles and the variety of flavours. As gazoz-drinking has entered the modern era, more and more interesting ingredients are being added to the sodas, and it’s made for some truly unusual concoctions.

Browse the shelves and you’ll come across flavours like chocolate, lavender, coconut, tamarind, coffee, jasmine, and — uh — mastic gum. Don’t worry — they have tons of less-abnormal flavours, too! Dave and I must have spent 10 minutes just narrowing down the options. In the end, I went for mango-pineapple while Dave opted for the watermelon-lemon.

Hunt for Antiques at Göç Antik

I spent a good 15 minutes rifling through the treasures at Göç Antik, and honestly, I could have stayed longer.

As with any antique store, you never quite know what you’re going to find, and this place is no exception. There’s a medley of surprises up for grabs: pots and pans, candles and oil lamps, quirky trinkets, vintage instruments, and an almost suspicious number of gramophones. One of them is usually spinning retro tunes throughout the day, adding to the store’s old-school vibe.

The owner is incredibly welcoming, full of knowledge about every piece in the shop, and always offering visitors a cup of tea or coffee. If something catches your eye, don’t be shy: strike up a chat, and you might just leave with a great story (or an unexpected purchase).

Stroll Past Fener Greek High School

Continue making your way up the steep hill from Göç Antik until you get to a Hogwarts-esque red-brick building. Fortunately, it takes less than a minute of climbing to get there.

The Fener Greek High School, or as it’s more dramatically known, the Red Castle of Istanbul, is one of those buildings that makes you stop in your tracks and go, wait… what is that?! Sitting high on a hill in the Fener district, this towering red-brick structure looks like it could be a palace, a fortress, or maybe even the setting for a gothic novel. But no, it’s actually a school. A very fancy one, at that.

Built in the 19th century, the Fener Greek Orthodox College was once one of the most prestigious schools in the city, educating the Greek Orthodox elite of the Ottoman Empire. These days, the school still operates, although with a much smaller student body. You can’t actually go inside (unless you’ve somehow enrolled yourself in a Greek high school), but honestly, just seeing it from the outside is worth the trip.

So, while you can only admire it from its gates, the Fener Greek School is still one of those little-known gems of Istanbul that’s well worth seeking out. It’s grand, it’s mysterious, and it’s a little unexpected — exactly the kind of place I love stumbling across in a city as layered as this one.

Loop Back Around Along Kiremit Cd.

Take a six minute stroll behind the Greek school and you’ll find yourself descending along Kiremit Cd.

You’ll probably hear the hum of influencers in the wild before you see them. There you’ll be, strolling down the street, and then, bam: a dozen Instagrammers clogging the path. Yes, these vibrant houses in Fener are the most photographed spot in the neighbourhood, but who can blame them? These homes are more than a little beautiful.

Of course, they’re also people’s homes — just like every colourful house in this part of Istanbul — so it’s worth keeping that in mind. Be quiet, be respectful, and don’t be that tourist. If you’re hoping for a shot without anyone else in the way, plan to linger for 10 minutes and time it between waves of visitors.

Thankfully, the crowds do thin out every now and then, so if you’re patient, you’ll be able to get your shot.

Finish Your Morning at the Venerable Patriarchal Church of Saint George

Istanbul’s St George Cathedral is home to an impressive history.

Dating back to the 16th century, its modest exterior — a stark contrast to the city’s grand mosques — hides gleaming treasures of deep cultural and religious significance in the Eastern Orthodox world. In fact, it’s one of the most important Orthodox structures in the world; on par with St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican for Datholics.

The most striking feature of the interior is the golden iconostasis, which you can see in my photo above. There is also the Column of Christ’s Flagellation; supposedly part of the post to which Jesus was tied before his crucifixion. In addition, the cathedral houses 11th century mosaics, thrones inlaid with ivory and pearl, various icons and relics, plus an large queue outside.

Two things to note: you’ll need to pass through security to gain access to the cathedral, and once you do, you’ll notice the building has a particularly dim atmosphere. This can make it tricky to take good photos inside.

After you’ve explored the church, hop on the T5 tram from Fener to to Küçükpazar, just two stops down the line.

It’s Time for Balık Ekmek!

During my very first visit to Istanbul, back in 2012, one of my travel highlights was snacking on balık ekmek.

These fresh, fried fish sandwiches were available from dozens of restaurants beneath Galata Bridge — and the boats moored up alongside it — and were one of the best cheap eats in the city. For the equivalent of a couple of euros, you could have yourself a filling lunchtime meal and a historical experience to boot; balık ekmek sandwiches have been sold here since the 1800s.

Their presence in Istanbul has wavered over the past few decades, as authorities have repeatedly tried to shut down these historical eateries. Every few years, I come across an article announcing their removal — only to later learn they’ve been allowed back, then banned again, creating a time-honoured clash between tradition and regulation.

While my favourite balık ekmek offering from that first visit to Istanbul has long since closed down, I’m delighted to share that I found a replacement that’s maybe even better.

After you disembark from the tram in Küçükpazar, set your sights on Balıkçı Hakkı. This little fishing boat has a grill affixed to its deck, where mackerel is barbecued all day long. There’s seating both inside the boat and out on the deck, and one of my favourite moments was sitting at the bow, looking out across the skyline, and devouring a beautiful €4 fish sandwich.

You’ve got two options to choose from at Balıkçı Hakkı, so you don’t have to go for the balık ekmek; they also serve balik dürüm. Both sandwiches have the same ingredients — grilled fish and salad — but the ekmek comes in a crusty bread roll, while the dürüm is served in a wrap. If there are two of you, try one of each! Otherwise, I’d recommend the ekmek, as it’s the more traditional choice.

There’s plenty of lemon and salt on the tables to sprinkle on top of your fish, and there’s also…

Well.

There’s one further delicacy that you could also try while you’re there.

Pickled, fermented turnip juice — şalgam suyu — is a Turkish drink that’s traditionally consumed alongside fish, and I know that just the sound of it is probably enough to put you off, but I loved it. (Full disclaimer: I love anything pickled!) If you’re feeling bold, I recommend giving it a try.

Keep your eye on the time as you eat, because you’ll want to ensure you’ve finished before 2 p.m. — next, we’ll be heading out on the water to see that skyline from up-close.

Head Out On the Bosphorus

I was surprised to discover just how inexpensive it is to take a cruise on the Bosphorus; it might just be one of the best deals in all of Istanbul.

I went with Land & Sea Tours, which charges €7.50 for a two-hour cruise and €12 for a three-hour version; drink and commentary included! We opted for the three-hour cruise since we wanted to see as much of the city as possible from the water. While the two-hour version takes you up and down the Bosphorus Strait, the three-hour tour also includes the Golden Horn, where the Bosphorus meets the Sea of Marmara.

A huge benefit to choosing the three-hour tour was getting to snag the best seats on the boat. After sailing up to the Golden Horn, we returned to port to collect the passengers who would be joining us for the two-hour cruise. Most of these people ended up stuck in the middle of the deck, missing out on the best waterfront views!

You can see the scenes from my cruise below. The first photo was during the Golden Horn leg, where we had much of the boat to ourselves and could claim the best seats (at the front, on the left, beneath the canopy for shade). Then came the chaos when everyone else boarded for the Bosphorus section. Imagine ending up on one of those centre-deck chairs — how disappointing!

It wasn’t until I took this cruise that I truly grasped just how vast the city of Istanbul is. I knew it was enormous, of course, but sailing along the Bosphorus for three hours gave me a perspective on its size that I hadn’t experienced before.

Along the way, you’ll be able to see tons of the city’s landmarks, most of which you won’t have time to see while you’re in town. Some of my personal highlights were seeing Dolmabahçe Palace, Çırağan Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Rumeli Fortress, Selimiye Barracks, Mecidiye Mosque, and Maiden’s Tower.

Vist the Hagia Sophia Just Before Sunset

Now.

The Hagia Sophia is a bit of a controversial one.

This world-famous building has worn many hats throughout its long and storied history. It first opened as a Christian cathedral in 537 AD — the largest in the world at the time and similar in importance to to the Vatican — before being transformed into a mosque nearly a thousand years later, after the fall of Constantinople. Fast forward to the 20th century, and the Hagia Sophia had been turned into a museum, allowing visitors to freely enjoy its architecture and centuries of history.

And then came along 2020, and should we really be surprised at what I’m about to say, because when did anything good happen in 2020?

Out of nowhere, the Turkish government announced that the Hagia Sophia would be losing its museum status and returning to a mosque — with a hefty price tag for visitors and a floor that was only accessible to Muslims. The Byzantine-era artwork would be covered by curtains — you can see those in my photo above — and the marble floor would be covered by carpet.

As of 2025, you’ll need to cough up €30 to visit the Hagia Sophia, and if you want to skip the lengthy queue and access a partially-open museum, tickets come in at an eye-watering €50!

So the question is now: is it worth visiting in 2025?

For my travel partner, Dave, it was a no-brainer: absolutely not. He’d already been to the Hagia Sophia, and refused to spend that amount of money to have a worse experience than the first time. That’s totally understandable. But what if you weren’t fortunate enough to have visited Istanbul before 2020?

I knew I needed to pay to re-enter the Hagia Sophia, if only so that I could let you guys know if it’s an absolute waste of money.

I’ll confess: I don’t think it’s the best-value activity in Istanbul; not by a long shot.

And I’ll also share that visiting now is undoubtedly a far crappier experience than it used to be.

But I still think that if you can justify the expense, it’s worth paying for. After all: it’s the Hagia Sophia! It’s such a well-known, important building and it’s still amazing to see it with your own eyes. It’s not as mind-blowing as before, but it’s still very impressive.

I recommend visiting just before sunset because the queues are so much shorter at this time of the day! I decided to visit at 10 a.m. and the queues were stretching back for a solid hundred metres; they were so bad, I coughed up the €50 entrance fee to avoid standing in line for an hour! Don’t make the same mistake as I did.

That’s why I recommend an evening visit. That way, you can save some money by paying just €30 and still see the mosque with a hint of sunlight passing in through the windows.

Day Three in Istanbul: Let’s Head Over to the Asian Side

Istanbul is the only city in the world that straddles two continents, so you obviously can’t leave without setting foot on the Asian side.

We’ve got an early-ish start today, so I’d recommend grabbing breakfast in Sultanahmet. Now, this area is pretty well-known for its overpriced rooftop restaurants that cater almost exclusively to tourists — and especially at breakfast time. The most famous is Seven Hills restaurant, which is known for having one of the best views in the area.

But here’s the good news: I found a little-known alternative with way lower prices, welcoming staff, and views that are almost as stunning. It’s located a few blocks back from the main touristy spots, so most visitors don’t bother wandering down this way. This morning, however, you’re going to do exactly that.

Seek Out One of the Best Value Breakfasts in Sultanahmet

Yes, we’re kicking off our day at Mesopotamian Terrace Restaurant, because what better way to spend your final morning in Istanbul than with an iconic Sultanahmet view?

You know me by now: I’m always going to recommend a Turkish breakfast! And this spot delivers, with a fantastic spread and one of the best panoramas in the city. From the rooftop terrace, you’ll be able to sit and eat with the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, and even the Asian side of Istanbul within your eyeline.

Their Turkish breakfast offering is nothing short of epic, with three types of local cheeses, a fresh bagel, crusty bread, a creamy yoghurt-cucumber dip, jams, cheese pastries, tahini, clotted cream, honey, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, a sausage omelette, halva, Turkish tea, black mulberry juice… phew! It’s enough to make you want to crawl back into bed for a morning nap.

There’s no rest for the over-stuffed, however, because it’s time to head to Topkapi Palace. If you can enter at 9 a.m., you’ll be able to see most of the attractions without any crowds.

Head Straight to Topkapi Palace

Next up on the itinerary: a trip back in time to the era of Ottoman sultans, extravagant jewels, and some seriously dramatic palace gossip. Welcome to Topkapi Palace: the former home of Ottoman rulers for nearly 400 years.

If you’ve ever wondered what life might like behind the palace walls, well, it involved a lot of wealth, mystery, and probably some intense side-eye. This complex is absolutely enormous, so don’t be surprised if you end up spending four hours exploring the entire thing.

In fact, I don’t even know where to begin when it comes to describing the sheer number of rooms, displays, and monuments you’ll be able to see while you’re inside.

One of the highlights for me was the Harem, which were the opulent private quarters where the sultan’s family and concubines lived. The Treasury is another must-see, showcasing swords encrusted with gems, an 86-carat diamond, and other treasures that prove the sultans really knew how to shop. There’s also a collection of relics, including — supposedly — Moses’ staff and Prophet Muhammad’s cloak. Whether you believe in their authenticity or not, it’s a fascinating look at how the Ottomans collected (or “acquired”) these artefacts.

And then, of course, there’s the view.

Topkapi Palace sits on a prime spot overlooking the Bosphorus, and the terrace offers one of the best panoramas in the city. It’s the perfect place to end your visit, standing where sultans once stood, gazing out over their empire.

The only criticism I have about the experience is that the complex was a little too large to hold my interest. Dave and I ended up skipping over some of the rooms after we’d spent four hours there, because we were absolutely palaced-out.

Take a Breather at Gulhane Park

Just when you think Istanbul is all magnificent mosques and busy bazaars, along comes Gülhane Park to remind you that, yes, this city has a peaceful side too. Located right next to Topkapi Palace, this park was once the private gardens of the sultans. Today, it’s open to everyone, and if you need a break from the crowds — which you probably will do after spending time at Topkapi — this is the perfect spot to take a break.

If you’re visiting in April, you’re in for a real treat. At this time of year, the entire park explodes with tulips, thanks to Istanbul’s obsession with them. Fun fact: tulips originally came from Turkey, not the Netherlands!

One of my favourite things about Gülhane Park is the view. Head towards Setüstü Tea Garden, and you’ll find a hilltop cafe that’s overlooking the Bosphorus. This is where you grab a Turkish tea, sit back, and take in the scene — ferries gliding across the water, seagulls wheeling overhead, and the distant hum of the city. It’s one of those rare spots where you get a moment of calm in a place that never really slows down.

It’s also worth keeping an eye out for some of the historical bits scattered around the park, like the Column of the Goths (a leftover from the Roman era) or the entrance to the old imperial stables. But honestly? The real magic of Gülhane is simply wandering, finding a quiet bench, and watching Istanbul do its thing.

Once you’re suitably refreshed, it’s time to make your way over to the Asian Side of Istanbul, and

I Loved My Turkish Coffee Class on the Asian Side

So if there’s one thing you need to know about Dave, it’s that he loves coffee. And so, when our trip to Istanbul last year coincided with his birthday, I knew I had to gift him a coffee-themed experience. Turkish coffee is one of the most beloved beverages in this country, and it’s got such a fascinating backstory.

We opted for the Turkish coffee-making class offered by Istanbul Workshops, who offer a whole range of Turkish-inspired experiences for visitors. I mention this because I know not everybody is a coffee fan! If that’s the case, you might want to sign up for their mosaic lamp-making workshop, perfume-making class, ceramic tile artwork session, or learn how to make traditional stained glass windows.

The reviews for all of their experiences are amazing and offer phenomenal value for money. Classes cost around €15 and for that, we had a three-hour history and coffee-making class, learned how to read each others fortunes in our coffee grounds, free drinks and snacks, and were each gifted a ceramic Turkish coffee mug and saucer.

All of the classes are held within the same building, so I was able to take a peek at the other options on offer. I thought the mosaic lamp-making, in particular, looked like so much fun!

So, anyway. Dave loves his coffee, but I don’t really like it that much. Neither of us are particularly fond of Turkish coffee, either, so I was curious to see if this was going to be a disaster for us both.

It was actually the exact opposite, and we both came away with such a deep appreciation for Turkish coffee. As an added bonus, the two different versions we learned to make were so much better than the ones we’d been trying in the local cafes. Our instructor was so friendly and made all of the history behind Turkish coffee super-interesting.

I’d definitely recommend spending your morning learning more about whichever aspect of Turkish culture intrigues you most — and especially the coffee class, because we loved it so much!

Explore More of the Asian Side

The classes take place in Üsküdar — a historic, less touristy area on the Asian side — so once you’ve finished up, I recommend taking an hour or so to soak it all in. This part of Istanbul has a totally different energy to the hustle of Sultanahmet. Here, it’s all about the traditional way of life, with Ottoman-era mosques, waterfront tea shops, and a distinct lack of tour groups.

It’s a real old-school Istanbul vibe.

If you’re up for a little sightseeing, check out Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, designed by legendary Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan. It’s one of those under-the-radar mosques that somehow still isn’t packed with tourists, so you can actually take a quiet moment to admire its beauty. If mosques aren’t your thing, Üsküdar’s little backstreets are full of local markets and bakeries where you can pick up a fresh simit (the Turkish version of a bagel, but crispier and better).

Then, if you’ve still got daylight hours leftover — and enough energy — and are keen to see more of the Asian neighbourhoods, take a bus or an Uber over to Kadıköy.

In Kadıköy, you’ll find endless little streets to get lost in, full of record stores, bookshops, and vibey boutiques. If you’re in the mood for lively bars, street art bustling markets, and trendy cafés, Kadıköy is the place to be. If you want to do something particularly quirky, grab a coffee at Walter’s Coffee Roastery: a Breaking Bad-themed café where you can don a yellow hazmat suit before you start drinking.

Finally, head back to the waterfront. Watch the ferries come and go and take in that gorgeous view of the European skyline.

Take the Ferry Back Across the Water

Starting to get hungry? It’s time to take a scenic ferry ride back to Eminonu.

Not only is this the best way to get across the Bosphorus, but it’s also an experience in itself. Grab a seat on the open deck, order a steaming cup of Turkish tea from the onboard café (because of course the ferry has tea service), and settle in for the most scenic commute of your life. You’ll glide past historic palaces, minarets, and seagulls that have absolutely zero fear of humans. Seriously, these birds will hover next to your hand if you’ve got simit — and yes, feeding them is basically a tradition.

Forget taxis, forget the metro — this is how you should be traveling in Istanbul. And if you time it right with sunset? Pure magic.

Take a Stroll Around Binbirdiek Sarnici

Before we wrap up our time in Istanbul, however, there’s one final activity I want to recommend visiting.

If, when you visited the Basilica Cistern, you found yourself thinking: “Wow, that was cool, but I wish it had fewer tourists and even more atmosphere,” let me introduce you to Binbirdirek Sarnıcı — aka the Cistern of 1,001 Columns.

Now, does it actually have 1,001 columns? Nope!

But with 212 towering marble pillars, it still feels like you’ve stepped into some kind of ancient underground temple. Built in the 4th century — which makes it even older than the Basilica Cistern — this cistern is the second-largest in the city. These days, it’s more of a moody, dimly lit event space, often used for art exhibitions, performances, and — because this is Istanbul — dramatic wedding photoshoots.

It feels way more peaceful than the Basilica Cistern. You’re not shoulder-to-shoulder with tour groups, and the atmosphere is eerier, almost like you’ve uncovered a secret part of the city that not everyone knows about.

We went before dinner, around half an hour before it closes (at 5 p.m.) and were the only people in the complex for the 30 minutes we were walking around!

Now, I’ll admit that it’s definitely not as impressive as the Basilica Cistern, and there’s no water there, which does remove a little of the excitement, but it’s significantly cheaper and definitely worth seeing.

Grab a Fiery Dinner from Old Ottoman Cafe and Restaurant

For your final dinner in Istanbul, I recommend venturing over to Old Ottoman Cafe & Restaurant, which is located down a side street near Hagia Sophia.

The first thing you’ll notice? The staff here are so friendly. I’m talking next-level hospitality, the kind where they chat with you like you’re an old friend and might even surprise you with a free appetiser or dessert. It’s the type of place where you sit down planning to eat quickly, and then suddenly, two hours have passed, you’ve befriended your waiter, and you’re seriously considering ordering another round of mezze.

And the food? This is the place to come to try a Testi Kebab, aka the clay pot kebab. You’ve likely seen these being cracked open in restaurants across the city already, and I couldn’t leave the city without trying it for myself.

They slow-cook the stew inside a sealed clay jar, which they then bring to your table — aflame! — and then dramatically crack it open with a knife. A little performance with your dinner? Yes, please. The lamb melts in your mouth, the flavours are rich and tasty, and it’s exactly the kind of meal that makes you forget you were ever tired from walking 30,000 steps.

Between the warm hospitality, the hearty food, and the charmingly old-school atmosphere, Old Ottoman Café & Restaurant is one of those spots that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled onto a hidden gem — except, based on the glowing reviews, the secret’s definitely out.

Where We Stayed in Istanbul

I always recommend that first-time visitors to Istanbul stay in the Sultanahmet neighbourhood. It’s where all of the biggest tourist attractions in the city are, and there’s something so magical about waking up to a panoramic view of the Hagia Sofia and Blue Mosque.

I’ve tried multiple overpriced, mediocre hotels in this city, but there are fortunately a few gems to be found. This time around, Dave and I decided to stay in Tin Suites and loved it; it’s now where I send all of my friends when they visit the city!

The rooms are spacious and beautifully designed, and the balcony overlooking the Hagia Sofia is incredible because — yes, the location can’t be beaten. The staff are super friendly and the rooms are completely silent, despite their central location. Here’s a photo of the view from our bedroom window at night:

The only thing I’d recommend is to skip the free hotel breakfast, because — as you may have noticed from the rest of this article — there’s so many better places to eat!

And That’s How to Spend Three Days in Istanbul!

And so concludes my rather lengthy three-day itinerary for Istanbul! I hope you have a wonderful time in this city and fall in love with it as hard as I have.

-Lauren.

The post How to Spend Three Magical Days in Istanbul appeared first on Never Ending Footsteps.