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It’s an easy train journey to Leuven, from London via Brussels and the station is conveniently located in the city centre. At first glance, it looks like many Flemish towns—red brick gables, cobbled squares, cyclists weaving confidently through narrow lanes. But there’s a hum here, a youthful energy you feel before you even unpack your bag.

With 50,000 students out of a population of just over 100,000, Leuven is defined by its university, its beer, and its sense of fun. It’s a place where Gothic spires meet rowdy terraces, where centuries-old libraries sit comfortably next to buzzing bars, and where Belgium’s best-loved brew, Stella Artois, was born.

It’s also a dream destination for cyclists and, with more bikes than cars in the centre, the city has fully embraced two-wheeled travel. Wide cycle lanes and bike-only streets, make navigating the compact city both safe and stress-free.  And it’s easy to get going – just download the Blue-bike App, pay your money and pick up an e-bike from the underground parking at the central square, Rector De Somerplein.

Leuven City Centre

I begin my ride at the Grote Markt, one of the most beautiful squares in Belgium. At its centre stands St. Peter’s Church, a masterpiece of Brabantine Gothic. Construction began in the 15th century and, like so many cathedrals, it was never finished—the tower intended to soar above the skyline was left incomplete. Inside, art treasures abound, most notably Dirk Bout’s Last Supper, painted in 1464, considered one of the first Flemish attempts at perspective.

But the real show-stopper is the Town Hall. It’s an almost fantastical confection, its façade bristling with turrets, pinnacles, and niches filled with statues of saints, scholars, and rulers. Some call it excessive, even ostentatious, but in the afternoon sun, it looks majestic.  Leuven’s Town Hall is not about restraint, however, it’s about civic pride carved in stone.

Just nearby is the Oude Markt, often called “the longest bar in the world.” Lined on both sides by cafés and pubs, it’s a magnet for students and locals alike. By day, it’s a pleasant square for coffee or a light lunch. By night, it transforms into a carnival of clinking glasses, laughter, and music. Leuven’s nightlife begins here.

University of Leuven

Founded in 1425, the Catholic University of Leuven (KU Leuven) is the oldest in the Low Countries and has shaped the city ever since. Behind every corner, a university hall or imposing college awaits you.  In the centre alone you’ll find Atrecht College (home of the first female students), Holy Spirit College, Van Dale College, Kings College (with Zoological Museum) and Pope’s College.

Dominating the huge square of Ladeuzeplein is the University Library, a grand neo-Renaissance building with an imposing clock tower. Burned down twice in the 20th century, once by the Germans in 1914 and again during the Second World War, it has become both a symbol of destruction and of resilience. It’s a hard climb up the narrow stairs to the top of its tower but the view is well worth it. I gaze over terracotta roofs across the spire of St. Peter’s Church to the flat fields of Flanders stretching way into the distance.

Another building worth a visit is the University Hall, originally a 14^th century Cloth Merchants Hall before becoming part of the university in 1431. A guided tour takes me to the beautiful Rector’s Salons, the impressive Promotion Hall and to the top floor for a panoramic view of Leuven.

The Groot Begijnhof

A short bike ride brings me to the Groot Begijnhof, a UNESCO World Heritage site, a serene enclave of cobbled lanes, brick houses, and tiny gardens. It was founded in the 13th century as a community for beguines, religious women who lived independently without taking vows.

They are long gone, but the buildings have been beautifully restored and now house university students and professors. Walking its tranquil streets feels like stepping back centuries, a world away from the bustle just outside its walls.

Botanical Garden

Another serene retreat is the Botanical Garden, the oldest in Belgium, established in 1738 for medical students. Today, it’s a lush oasis with greenhouses, ponds, and flowerbeds. On a warm day, locals sprawl on the lawns, children run between statues, and the scent of herbs drifts on the breeze.

Arenberg Castle and Park

On my second day, I set out to explore beyond the city centre. Arenberg Castle and Park was for many centuries the home of noblemen but now it’s frequented by students and university staff of the KU Leuven Science and Engineering Campus. The lords of Heverlee built the first castle here in the 14th and it was extensively renovated in neo-gothic style in the 19th century

It was donated to the university in 1916, and the extensive grounds house some artworks. Perhaps the most impressive is the new Wandering Garden installation by artist duo Gijs Van Vaerenbergh. Conceived as a contemporary folly, colourful climbing plants will gradually overgrow the network of curved steel lattices – echoing the rhythm of the seasons.

Park Abbey

Just a few kilometres south, Park Abbey is known as one of the best preserved abbey sites in Western Europe. Although the abbey mainly dates back to the 17th and 18th centuries, its history goes back to 1129, when the Duke of Brabant donated his hunting grounds in Leuven to the Norbertine monks.

Cycling through the huge stone gate, its baroque church, fishponds, and restored farm buildings create a picture of monastic life that feels remarkably intact. It’s worth visiting the main abbey building to see the cloister, library and refectory with its outstanding stucco ceilings. You also get privileged access to the private quarters of the Abbot.

Brewery De Coureur

There’s no better way to finish a day of cycling than sampling some excellent Belgian beers. Tucked away in the Leuven neighbourhood of Kessel-Lo, Brewery De Coureur (French for ‘the cyclist’) is a microbrewery brimming with personality, warmth, and a unique cycling twist. The beers have cycling-related names such as Colleke, Kuitenbijter and Souplesse, and the theme continues with the décor, with recycled bike parts and even stools fitted with bicycle seats.

Brewer Bart and his partner Ine stepped away from the corporate rat race to pursue their passion of creating bold, characterful beers. You sample them in the taproom, sharing tables with other drinkers and dogs are welcome. They don’t serve food here, but you can bring your own sandwiches or even get a takeaway delivered. And it goes without saying that the beer is excellent.

Factfile

GO: Eurostar to Brussels, then local train to Leuven, around 30 minutes. Hire a Blue-bike through the app.

STAY: The Penta Hotel makes a good base in the city centre.

INFO: Visit Leuven has information about the city.

Visit Flanders has information about the region.

EAT:

• Madmum Coffeebar is good for light meals
• Baracca has Italian inspired dishes with great crispy pizza
• De Abdijimolen at Park Abbey has good food and river views from its terrace.
• De Hoom is in the former Stella Artois Brewery and serves Flemish and international dishes.
• The Optimist has inventive small and medium sharing plates with emphasis on vegetarian.
• Brewery De Coureur has excellent distinctive beer.

You may also like to read Cycling and Walking in Speyside, Scotland

The post Guide to Cycling in Leuven, Flanders, Belgium appeared first on The Travel Magazine.

Things were tough for photographers during the Stone Age. No camera bags; no photo backpacks, either. Some citizens were so starved for visual stimulation that they resorted to painting stick figures on the walls inside their caves, or building granite astronomical clocks. Others just bided their time, waiting to evolve. [This story originally appeared in 2018 and has been updated to purge the fibs. Mostly. — Ed. ]

In prehistoric times, cave people carried their cameras in animal skins—which got them into tons of trouble with PETA, truth be told. Australopithecus afarensis, who typically shot a lot of video, mainly used mastodon trunks to tote the 8mm film cassettes (this was before Super 8).

 

By most accounts, the gadget bag industry was born shortly after the appearance of Pithecanthropus. As humankind evolved they recognized the need for a better way to transport and protect delicate photo equipment. This was a primary driver of brain development, and eliminated the need for prehensile feet from our lineage. Some say this is why we lost our tails—we no longer needed them to carry zoom lenses.

Before long, Homo erectus discovered fire and invented the tool that has been a boon to mankind the world over. I’m referring to the YKK self-healing zipper, without which we’d have to button our gadget bags shut.

Neanderthals (Homo neanderthalensis) quite frankly did not contribute much to the party. Their brains were indeed large enough—about the same as contemporaneous humanoids—but anthropologists believe that their vision was inferior, and therefore the selective breeding instinct of finding an attractive mate was severely impaired. So much so, in fact, that they had a reputation for sharing their cave with anyone who could strike two flints together. Could explain the alleged hookups with naughty Denisovan damsels, too.

Telephoto lenses became popular around 1,000,000 years ago. While the ability to photograph saber-toothed tigers from a distance made photography safer, teles spawned the necessity for larger camera bags. Some blame Tamron; others blame Sigma. Sadly, Kodachrome 25 hadn’t been invented yet, so we do not know exactly what color the big cats were; however, we can assume they were digital urban camo because they were so hard to see.

Julius Caesar created the first Photographer’s Vest. It was called the toga which is Latin for toga. It was made of Kevlar and 100% bulletproof. Alas, it was not knife-proof. It wasn’t even knife-resistant, as Brutus later demonstrated.

The Vikings are generally given credit for inventing the photo backpack, which they called the Plünder Sak. Early models had special straps that attached to the horns on their helmets. Later they developed a compact sling bag that could be worn comfortably whilst yielding a battle axe or rowing. [He’s lying. Very few Vikings had horns. — Ed. ]

Around 1455, Johann Gutenberg perfected the printing press with moveable type and the Gadget Bag Owner’s Manual was introduced into the marketplace. The fad quickly faded because few people could read, and none bothered to read OMs. Some things never change. Gutenberg transitioned his business into the manufacture of lens cleaning tissue and printing breakfast cereal boxes, and thereby became an enduring success story.

By 1615, William Shakespeare had launched a line of stylish camera bags on Elizabethan Kickstarter. There were several models, including the Hamlet, the Othello and a weather-resistant model called The Tempest. The Shake Man was considered a pioneer because he also produced a bag targeted toward the female audience. Called the Lady Macbeth, it was stain resistant. Out, damned spot! Out, I say!

Billy’s bag line remained popular but controversial for three centuries because many scholars believed the bags had surreptitiously been designed by Sir Francis Bacon, and others contested that it was Christopher Marlowe. Oh well; what’s in a name?

When the New World was discovered, explorers found immense fields of tomatoes and hundreds of jars of marinara sauce. Which makes me wonder how Italy gets away with taking credit for spaghetti and pizza? Were there tomato-less versions up until then?

And don’t get me started on the Brits’ claim to Fish and Chips; the humble potato was first cultivated in Peru. Sorry UK. And while we’re on it, why do you call potato chips “crisps”? Huh? “Take the lift down to the tube while noshing on crisps.” Speak English, for crying out loud, like us ‘Mericans.

Anyway, the Americas were colonized at some point, and the hunt for wild nauga ensued. Within months, nauga hide became the de rigueur of camera bag makers across Europe. Some were repurposed into padded footstools, precipitating the emergence of the Ottoman Empire.

That’s about all the history I know, except for the parts I left out.

Camera bags and photo backpacks remain super popular despite the prevalence of tiny smartphones that scarcely even need a pocket to hide in. And everything in this story is the absolute truth, I promise.

—Jon Sienkiewicz