Surrounded by rolling countryside dotted with small villages, Montreuil-sur-Mer has long been one of my favourite places for a quick injection of French food and lifestyle.  Just don’t expect to walk beside the blue waters of the Opal Coast.   Around 45 miles south of Calais, this fortified hilltop town lies 10 miles inland on the Canche river, one of seven rivers that together make up the enchanting Vallées d’Opale region of Pas-de-Calais, the nearest French département to England’s south coast. 

Montreuil is packed with history

Montreuil rampart walk

Built on a hill and surrounded by lofty ramparts, Montreuil is a delight from any angle.   Small enough to feel at home, large enough to provide plenty of interest for a short break or as part of a touring holiday by car.  Follow the rampart walk; visit the citadel, refortified under Louis XIV; and wander the cobbled streets lined with historic properties, large and small.  So impressed was writer Victor Hugo when he stayed overnight here that he gave the town a starring role in Les Misérables.

Foodie heaven

Les Hauts de Montreuil and, right, Le Patio

Montreuil has established an enviable reputation amongst foodies, thanks to several quality restaurants that include two fine dining restaurants and a café led by Michelin-starred chef Alexandre Gauthier.  

Staying over?  I made a welcome return to Les Hauts de Montreuil, part of the reliable Logis de France network, which ticks all my boxes with its cosy atmosphere, warm welcome and excellent food at Le Patio restaurant, all just moments from the ramparts and main square. 

If you are self-catering or simply buying a picnic, Montreuil is also home to some specialist food and drink retailers from bakers and patisseries to wine merchants, cheese shops and butchers.   Enjoy an insider’s view on Friday mornings with Opal Coast Food Tours, run by British ex-pats Paddy and Sarah Daly.  Discover the best gastronomic shops and pick up culinary tips over tastings, finishing off with a lunch of authentic regional fare in a local restaurant. 

Discover the Global Ocean

Giant manta ray, Nausicaa

Heading back towards Calais, I stayed overnight in Boulogne, home to France’s largest fishing port, but also to the wonderful Nausicaa, France’s National Sea Life Centre.  Established in 1991 to improve public awareness of the world’s marine environments, Nausicaa now boats Europe’s largest aquarium, as well as many smaller ones featuring sea creatures from around the world. 

Tropical fish, Nausicaa

Divided into three zones covering tropical waters, climate change, and life beside the global ocean, Nausicaa appeals to all ages and every level of interest with plenty of interactive fun.  Enjoy a front row view of manta rays and grey sharks, tiny starfish and huge crabs, jewel-coloured tropical fish and delicate sea anemones as you discover their importance to our planet.  My three-hour visit passed in a flash.

Explore Boulogne’s Old Town

Boulogne Old Town

Turn your back on Nausicaa and the seafront to wander through the town centre and uphill to Vieux Boulogne, dominated by the soaring dome of Notre-Dame Basilica.  Take time out to look up inside the dome and go underground to the newly restored crypt.  Then head to the old chateau, now an absorbing museum with eclectic collections including paintings, Roman sculptures, and Egyptian artefacts collected by local archaeologist August Mariette who was instrumental in founding Cairo’s museum of antiquities as well as the collection currently held by The Louvre.

Boulogne for Foodies

Like Montreuil, Boulogne satisfies both body and soul with a wide choice of accommodation, restaurants and food shops.   Pop into Philippe Olivier’s renowned cheese shop with a cool bag to stock up for your next dinner party or maybe browse the quayside stalls for fresh fish and shellfish.

Hotel La Matelote, Boulogne

For a fish supper to remember – other dishes also available – book a table or overnight stay at La Matelote opposite Nausicaa.   Named after a traditional Boulonnais fishwife, the relaxed ambience and top class food have made this family-run hotel into a favourite for more than 40 years.

Take the coast road

The quick route back to Calais crosses rolling farmland with distant views of the sea, but for a last treat, take the coast road and stop to stroll along the shore at Ambleteuse with its 17^th century seaside fort or the peaceful fishing village of neighbouring Audresselles.   

Ambleteuse

The road passes the Site des Deux Caps, classified Grand Site de France for the natural environment of the twin headlands, Cap Gris Nez and Cap Blanc Nez.  Perfect for a leg stretch and panoramic views. ‘Grey Nose’ is the nearest point to Britain and on a clear day, the English coast is easily visible 20 miles away.  So near but oh so very different!

Fact File

GET THERE: Gillian took her car on board LeShuttle rail service for the 35-minute undersea journey from Folkestone to Calais.  Drive direct to Boulogne in roughly 30 minutes, a further half-hour to Montreuil-sur-Mer. www.leshuttle.com 

STAY AND DO

• www.leshautsdemontreuil.fr
• www.la-matelote.com
• www.opalcoastfoodtours.com
• www.nausicaa.fr

MORE TOURIST INFORMATION:  www.visitpasdecalais.com

The post A short French fix to the coastal towns of Montreuil-sur-Mer and Boulogne, France appeared first on The Travel Magazine.

In the scenic region of Valais in Switzerland, small villages sprawl across the valleys and winter playgrounds have been created in the snow-covered mountains.

Each one has its own enchantment and is supported by membership in the area’s Magic Pass. I spent some time in two of these villages, each with its own unique character. Leukerbad was the first. I arrived there by train from Geneva and the regular shuttle that meets each train arriving in Leuk.

Leukerbad in Valais, Switzerland

It was late afternoon when I arrived in Leukerbad, too late to ski, but plenty of time to experience the Leukerbad Therme. And what a treat that was to spend some time in the most famous baths in Switzerland – lounging in a pool while being massaged by jets of water. All against a splendid backdrop featuring the majestic Daubenhorn massif towering above the town.

These baths have a total of ten pools both indoors and outside with a range of temperatures from 28 to 44 degrees. There is also a cold plunge pool. Other facilities include a swimming pool, water slides, a dedicated children’s pool, a restaurant and a spa area with private treatment rooms.

This is where residents and visitors gather together after a day on the slopes and the place is ringing with conversation and laughter. There is also the evening spectacular of fire show that takes place in one of the outdoor pools as night falls. The next morning, I was ready to explore the three winter sports locations in Leukerbad, starting in the largest, Torrent.

The Thermal Baths in Leukerbad

Skiing on Torrent above Leukerbad

The Torrent ski area is accessed by the cable car rising up the mountain from Leukerbad (Leukerbad-Rinderhütt) and the Faschen-Torrentalp gondola in the rustic village of Albinen, further along the valley. Pistes in this area are mainly wide, sweeping reds, some good blacks and a sprinkling of blues.

Fifty kilometres of varied difficulty will delight skiers and snowboarders of most levels. There are also designated ski touring routes. This popular pastime allows proficient skiers to explore different ski areas using both designated routes and devising their own trails. The latter is best done with an experienced guide. There are also some dedicated winter walks and toboggan runs. Some easy off-piste terrain is ideal for a first attempt at this activity (but check your insurance first). At the top of the Torrent cable car is the large self-service Rinderhűtte. restaurant. Its large sun terrace entices both skiers and non-skiers to relax and enjoy the stunning panorama that surrounds it. For those that prefer cosy mountain restaurants there are some on the lower slopes.

Briand and Alpengruss are located at the mid-station of the Faschen-Torrentalp gondola; Faschen is at the bottom of this gondola, and the popular Weidstubli is on a red run. The latter is also accessible for walkers. Complete beginners should start at the Erli Snowpark.

Torrent Ski Area, Leukerbad

Erli Snowpark in Leukerbad

The Erli Snowpark is at the far end of Leukerbad and within walking distance for most, but also accessible on the free ski bus (for holders of the Magic Pass). This excellent beginners’ area features a nursery slope with a magic carpet and a separate toboggan run. An ideal venue for complete novices and young children.

A safe place for learning and having fun. Above the nursery slope are two more slopes with drag lifts. These provide an easy progression from the nursery slope, and once mastered, the next step, the blue and red slopes of Torrent, can be approached with confidence.

Erli also has a large sports complex with nine sports, plus a large indoor ice skating rink and an on-site restaurant. Proficient and adventurous skiers, snowboarders, and cross-country skiers will feel at home on Gemmi above the Erli Snowpark, accessible by a cable car a short walk away.

Fresh powder snow and awesome mountain panoramas are the main offerings of Gemmi. Ski touring adventures of different levels start here due to the absence of lifts for alpine skiing and accessibility to peaks that include the Wildstrubel, the Balmhorn and the Schwarzhorn. Four-day ski-touring and avalanche training courses are also based here. Two toboggan runs wind their way down to the bottom of the quaint four-person gondola at the back of the mountain, there is cross-country skiing around the frozen lake on the valley floor and some dedicated paths for walkers. Gemmi Lodge at the top of the cable car provides hostel-type accommodation and its restaurant is a great place to try rosti, a traditional Swiss dish. From Leukerbad I made my way to Les Marécottes.

Gemmi Cable Car in Leukerbad

Les Marécottes in Valais, Switzerland

My journey to Les Marécottes includes a short section of the Mont-Blanc Express. Although “express” is a misnomer for this quaint mountain train that rattles along on a single track. There is plenty of time to enjoy the spectacular scenery on either side.

Les Marécottes Valais, Switzerland

There is a free ski bus from the station to the cable car that climbs up the mountain to the ski area at the top. Both the cable car and the ski bus have been provided by the municipality of Les Marécottes and neighbouring Salvan. The ski bus also operates as a school bus, commuter bus and local public transport.

Les Marécottes is one of the very few resorts that rely totally on natural snow. Although it only has a small number of groomed slopes a fresh fall of snow opens up endless exciting possibilities for free-riding, ski touring and off-piste adventures. Although it has a snow garden, it is not suitable for complete beginners.

There is only one long blue run, two short blacks, and the rest are red runs. La Creusaz at the top of the cable car features a small gathering of attractive, wooden holiday homes and amongst them is a restaurant of the same name. Both take advantage of a natural balcony with breathtaking views of the Mont-Blanc massif and the Rhône plain. Les Marécottes also features an Alpen zoo.

Les Marécottes, Valais, Switzerland

Marécottes Zoo

Marécottes Zoo was established close to a natural swimming pool on the rocky slopes of a larch forest in the Vallée du Trient, close to the railway station of Les Marécottes.

Black Bear at Les Marécottes Zoo

This, the highest zoo in Europe, offers a wonderful opportunity to view the alpine animas of Valais, including the black bear, Eurasian lynx, grey wolf, deer and wild boar. The large enclosures mean sightings are not always guaranteed but add to the thrill when the animals are visible. The swimming pool is only open in the summer but the zoo and other facilities are open all year. These include an on-site boutique hotel and restaurant. Guests at the hotel are invited to join the keeper when he feeds the animals in the morning – an exceptional treat. A discounted entrance fee to the zoo and free access to the ski area in Les Marécottes are included on the Magic Pass.

Lynx in Zoo des Marécottes

The Magic Pass

All the places mentioned above are included on the Magic Pass, which has breathed new life into small resorts like Les Marécottes. This brilliant pass offers free use of around one hundred ski resorts. It does not include the larger more famous resorts and the largest resort on the pass is Saas Fee. It mainly covers Swiss resorts but there are a few French and Italian resorts close to the border.

Those resorts that, in reality, may only merit a one-day visit are now more attractive using this pass and by-passing the hassle and expense of purchasing day tickets. It can also make skiing an area more interesting by visiting the different resorts and using other facilities that are included on the pass for example, Leukerbad Therme.

Leukerbad from Gemmi Ski Area

The pass is valid winter and summer and its dynamic pricing means the earlier it is bought the less it costs. Ideal for residents of Switzerland, it may also be conducive to the booking of both winter and summer holidays in Switzerland.

For more information about the topic that interests you click on the name Leukerbad, Les Marécottes, Zoo des Marécottes and the Magic Pass.   

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