5 Reasons to visit the Aral Sea, Karakalpakstan – before it’s too late

Sixty years ago, the Aral Sea was the fourth-largest lake in the world. Now, it has shrunk to just 10 per cent of its original size, a bitter reminder of one of the 20th century’s worst man-made environmental disasters.

But the Republic of Karakalpakstan in the northwestern portion of Uzbekistan, where much of the surviving sea lies, is determined to help tourists understand the story and the beauty of the Aral Sea, and to support the resilient communities still living around the former seashore.

The region offers far more than disaster tourism: these are my five reasons you should visit the Aral Sea whilst there is still water to see.

Rare Desert Wildlife

The Aralkum – the world’s newest desert – has formed in the former seabed of the Aral Sea. Although at first glance it looks barren, that’s far from the truth: there are many different species of desert flora and fauna, including the Bactrian camels for which are icons of the ancient Silk Roads.

Bactrian camel – icon of the ancient Silk Roads

Fighting their way back from the brink of extinction are saiga antelope, helped by the Saiga Conservation Alliance. These large mammals with droopy snouts – perfectly suited to the dusty desert environment – live mostly in the Saigachy Reserve on the Aral Sea’s western shore, and on Resurrection Island, to the east.

Further south, you’re more likely to see and hear signs of wolves and jackals, hares, and small rodents. There are Central Asian tortoises, Brandt’s hedgehogs, and corsac foxes, too.

Birders will be in their element, as the Aral Sea, its supporting lakes and wetlands, and the Amu Darya are vital nesting spots for migratory birds.

The flamboyance of flamingos at Sudochye never ceases to delight, and there are plenty of birds of prey swooping and soaring along the cliffs on the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau. 

Environmental Education

Travel to the Aral Sea is an educational experience, and one would hope that learning about the water mismanagement which caused the shrinking of the Aral Sea would encourage more responsible environmental behaviour in the future.

But the disaster is only one part of the story. Just as interesting is how scientists are greening the desert and preventing dust storms with the planting of drought-resistant saxaul bushes.

The growing saiga population is a triumphant success story for conservationists. And local knowledge of native species – from artemia (brine shrimp, also known as sea monkeys) to liquorice – is leading to new economic opportunities.

Exploring the Aral Sea region is an opportunity to widen your understanding of how many different issues intersect in complex, fragile ecosystems. 

Aral Canyons

Large bodies of water have their own beauty and drama, but even more so when there is such a contrast with their surroundings. Driving across Karakalpakstan from the capital, Nukus, via the former port city of Muynak to the Aral Sea, the miles of desert seem endless. But then, just as you think you must be approaching the end of the world, there is the sea, glittering in bright, hot sunshine. 

Aral canyons – rock formations along the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau

As the sea water has retreated, the cliffs that once dropped into the Aral Sea now loom alone. No waves crash at their base, so they seem even larger than before. The rock formations along the edge of the Ustyurt Plateau are often referred to as the Aral Canyons, and though “canyon” is a misnomer here, it does give you a sense of what to expect.

One day, this landscape and the geology which creates it could be protected and celebrated as part of a geopark, but for now, it’s a playground for birds, reptiles, and small mammals, plus an occasional climber or photographer.

Stay in a yurt

Until the early 20th century, the Karakalpak people, after whom Karakalpakstan takes its name, were semi-nomadic. Many of them lived in yurts around the Aral Sea, fishing and hunting in the marshes. Although this traditional way of life has been lost, Karakalpaks remain proud of their distinct cultural identity.

Yurt camp, Aral Sea

The easiest way to immerse yourself in Karakalpak culture is to spend a night in a yurt, a portable felt tent which was a family’s home for much of the year.

The Aral Sea Yurt Camp is on a cliff top overlooking the sea, an incomparable location for a sunset beer and close enough to the water for a sunrise swim. All the yurts are decorated with colourful, hand-woven straps and wool tassels. 

Local cuisine reflects Karakalpaks’ nomadic heritage and location, too. Plov may be the national dish of Uzbekistan, but in Muynak it is cooked with fish rather than beef or lamb, making it akin to Spanish paella. Equally tasty is Júweri gúrtik, sorghum flour pasta topped with meat, onions, potatoes, and carrots.  

An opportunity to swim in the Aral Sea before it disappears

There are not many people in the world who can say that they have swum in the Aral Sea, and within most of our lifetimes, that possibility will be completely gone.

Jumping from the jetty and swimming in the salty water is a last chance experience, one to tell your children and grandchildren about. The Aral Sea is so saline that you will float with ease. And as the water is so shallow, it warms up quickly in the hot summer sun. 

You can stand among the skeleton ships in the ghostly harbour at Muynak, run for miles along the cliff tops without another person in sight, and watch murmurations of birds swirling about one thousand islands. The memory of sitting around a campfire in the desert will become ingrained in your heart, as will the dazzling nighttime display of stars. 

Fact box

Fly: Uzbekistan Airways flies direct from London Heathrow and Gatwick to Tashkent, with onward connections to Nukus, the capital of Karakalpakstan. Return flights from £530. 

Tours: Aral Sea Discovery specialises in jeep tours to the Aral Sea, including yurt stays at the Aral Sea Yurt Camp. Their two-day Eco Tour to the Aral Sea, starting and finishing in Nukus, costs from $185 per person. Contact them with the code #uzambassador.  

Read: Bradt Travel Guides publishes the only full-length guidebook to Karakalpakstan (RRP £19.99).

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