7 Dangerous Myths About Surge & Spike Protection

Fry potatoes, not computers.
Here are seven potentially catastrophic misunderstandings about surge protection.

Power spikes, electrical surges and lightning strikes are serious threats that can cause irreversible damage to your electronics, appliances, dwelling and/or person. You know that. But you might have your wires crossed when it comes to surge suppressors. Let’s clear things up before the sparks fly.

Disclaimer
I am not an electrician and this simplified article is not intended to replace professional advice. If you have a question about any electrical issues, call a licensed electrician.

7. I have a power strip so I’m protected
This is so wrong—and so dangerous.

A simple, low-priced power strip is nothing more than an extension cord with a plug on one end and a bank of outlets on the other. Some have on/off switches and impressive little lights that glow when the juice is flowing, but don’t let these pompous posers fool you. The power strip you bought at the discount store provides about as much protection as Crisco gives chicken in a hot skillet.

That said, there are surge suppressors that are also power strips, like the one I just bought (a Tripp Lite TLP74R) which is introduced somewhere below. Just be careful what you buy. And look for the UL Mark (more on that below).

6. I plug into a GFCI receptacle—that’s better than an SPD
You’ve got your Ps and Qs mixed up.

Let’s start at the electrical panel (AKA fuse box). Unless you live in a very old house, your electrical panel is home to circuit breakers. Each breaker protects one electrical circuit from damage caused by excess current from an overload or short circuit. This protects your wiring from overheating and potentially causing a fire.

A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is a specialized type of circuit breaker built into a two-outlet wall receptacle that turns off electric power when it senses a difference between the outgoing and incoming current. A similar device is the AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter). Sometimes GFCI and AFCI protection are built into the same receptacle.

These life savers act in a fraction of a second to protect you from injury—like when your hair dryer goes homicidal, for instance, and leaps into the sink. You’ll find these in kitchens, bathrooms, outdoors and other areas as mandated by the National Electrical Code (NEC).

On the other hand, SPDs, Surge Protection Devices, protect electrical devices from voltage spikes and surges. The difference between a surge and spike is one of duration and, sometimes, intensity.

BTW, if you do not have functional protective outlets in your kitchen, bathroom and other vulnerable areas (e.g., home darkroom, basement workshop, garage, etc.), stop reading and phone a licensed electrician now. Note that certain areas in the home require both GFCI and AFCI protection, and building codes often vary by county.

The Tripp Lite Isobar IBAR4 is a 4-outlet surge protector with a six-foot cord, metal housing and convenient right-angle plug, and has a protection rating of 3330 Joules. You can buy it for much less than $100.

5. I only need one for my TV and one for my computer
First of all, you only have ONE television? Really?

Truth is, anything that plugs into the wall is exposed to electrical surges and spikes. Cordless phones, for example. Or that $2000 electronic refrigerator. Fax machine. I mean, if you have only one TV, you may still use a Fax, right? And a VCR?

(Full disclosure: I own only one TV and it hasn’t been on in eight months. But the average American home has 2.3 sets.)

4. All surge protectors are basically the same
To the extent that all four-legged animals are the same, yes. Just as chipmunks and camels are both quadrupeds, but have little else in common, the same can be said of SPDs. If you take away nothing else, know this: potential protection differs by brand and model.

High quality SPDs are rated according to the amount of energy they can absorb or dissipate before failure. This rating is expressed in Joules. The higher the number, the greater the protection. Other critical specifications are Clamping Voltage (the maximum total voltage that’s passed to the protected equipment at the peak of the surge) and Response Time measured in nanoseconds (ns) which are one billionths of a second. Buy a surge protector that responds in less than one nanosecond.

3. They cost more than they’re worth
You might be in for a jolt.

For example, for well under $100 you can buy my overall favorite SPD, the Tripp Lite Isobar IBAR4, pictured somewhere above, that is available from Amazon for around $88.

I bought my first Tripp Lite Isobar years ago and have stuck with the brand ever since, mainly because they perform reliably and come with a lifetime warranty. Current models offer up to $50,000 (or more) Ultimate Lifetime Insurance which covers any connected components damaged by power surge. Registration required and conditions apply—see website.

Partial specifications for the Tripp Lite IBAR4:
• AC Suppression Joule Rating = 3300
• Clamping Voltage = 140
• AC Suppression Response Time < 1 ns

Even if you’re on a very tight budget, protection is within reach. As a matter of fact, just last week I purchased a Tripp Lite 7-outlet Surge Protector Power Strip with a 4-foot cord, model number Tripp Lite TLP74R, from Amazon for less than $25. I opted for the short cord for logistical reasons, but much longer cords are available.

The Tripp Lite TLP74R is not as robust as my Tripp Lite IBAR4 but I think it’s more than adequate to protect my computer, one lamp and one external HDD power adapter (and doubtlessly more). All receptacles are standard NEMA 5-15R, and the outlet on one end is set at a 90º angle so the fat power adapter doesn’t hog more than one spot.

Visit the official Tripp Lite Store on amazon.com.

2. Lighting will never strike my house
So what? Using that rationalization is like saying you don’t need insect repellent on a golf course in Florida because odds are against you being gobbled up by an alligator.

First, power surges do not require lightning. Spikes and surges are more often triggered via equipment maintenance by your electric service provider, large juice-gluttons like AC units when they cycle off and on, and home wiring issues.

Second, understand that Surge Protection Devices are not designed to singlehandedly protect your plugged-in components from a direct lightning strike to your domicile. Defense at that level begins with whole-house surge protection installed at the electrical panel.

For important lightning safety tips, and to learn about the numerous myths and false beliefs about lightning, visit the NOAA (National Weather Service) website.

1. I don’t really need one—they’re just marketing hype
They’re a bit like airbags. You don’t need one—until you need one.

I photographed this untidy arrangement in an active, professional testing laboratory. A pair of Belkin SPDs are protecting a number of devices. Don’t misunderstand—Belkin makes fine, high-quality products. In fact, it’s testimony to their reliability that they were able to handle this abuse. ©2016 Jon Sienkiewicz.

A few more sparks

Lifespan of an SPD
SPDs do not last forever. The accumulative routine of suppressing spikes and surges, or sometimes one major surge, can cause the innards, like the metal oxide varistors (MOVs) for example, to breakdown. These components can deteriorate from age, also. It’s recommended that you change SPDs every three to five years, but check with the manufacturer for more specific advice.

UL
Look for the UL Mark. It means a product has been certified to meet scientific safety, quality or security standards by UL Solutions.

What is NEMA?
Abbreviation for National Electrical Manufacturers Association, NEMA has created a pattern and numbering system for electrical outlets and plugs. No need to memorize them; there’s a chart somewhere in this article, and you can find more information online when you need it.

How about brownouts?
A brownout generally describes a sudden drop in voltage. Remember from your high school science class, Watts = Volts X Amperage. When voltage drops, amps increase. The sudden jump in Amperage can fry small electric motors faster than you can say “How come the vacuum won’t turn on?”

Right now you might be saying to yourself, “Ohmmmm.” That’s wrong. Ohm is a measurement of Electrical Resistance. Watt? Don’t you get it?

Disclaimer
I am not an electrician and this simplified article is not intended to replace professional advice. If you have a question about any electrical issues, call a licensed electrician.

—Jon Sienkiewicz

 

(As an Amazon Associate, Shutterbug earns from qualifying purchases linked in this story.)

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