Jackson – why you must make a stop at Mississippi’s “City of Soul”
Jackson, sits in the west-central part of the State of Mississippi, near the Pearl River, is the capital and the biggest city. Its central location, major highways, and airport made it an obvious starting point for a fly-drive tour—offering easy access to the state’s scenic byways, Civil Rights sites, and cultural attractions.
It is often referred to as the “City with Soul,” and having recently visited it, as part of a wider visit to the state, I can see why. It is a melange of history, culture, food, music and genuine Southern charm. From its pivotal role in the Civil Rights Movement to its burgeoning culinary scene and surprising recreational offerings, Jackson offers a compelling blend of past and present, making it a captivating destination for any visitor.
For my brief visit, I stayed at the historic and locally infamous Fairview Inn, which, for a first-time visitor like myself, was a wonderful place to stay, not only for its Southern-style comfort but also because it instantly gave one a sense of place. You are in the South! Located in the Belhaven neighbourhood, it is also ideally placed to visit the city’s main attractions and restaurants.
Hal & Mal’s
Hal and Mals Restaurant, Jackson
One of those is Hal & Mal’s. This iconic restaurant, music and comedy venue has been a Jackson staple for decades. It is known for its hearty Southern fare, and so I indulged in a Mississippi Catfish (tastes like Cod) Po Boy, a soft baguette with shredded lettuce, tomato, mayo and pickle, served with absolutely delicious, seasoned crisps. Jazz music was played by a trio who, in typical jazz fashion, each member had their solo sessions with associated facial contortions resulting in informed applause from those in the audience who were ‘in the know’. I, whilst I enjoyed the music, remained silent in ignorance until the music stopped. I met the leader of the trio during a break, and he informed me that only last year he had performed on BBC Television with Jools Holland – impressive stuff. Throughout the year, the venue offers diverse musical genres performed by local bands right through to national touring artists, which, when coupled with its welcoming, unpretentious atmosphere, makes its popularity very understandable.
Elvie’s Restaurant
Elvie’s
I also experienced some of Jackson’s finest cuisine at the award-winning restaurant Elvies (not Elvis who spent a lot of time in Jackson). Here, they serve a unique “Mississippi French” cuisine, blending classic French bistro elegance with Southern culinary traditions and ingredients. Amongst the sophisticated dinner options, I started with a Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail followed by one of the signature dishes, Redfish Almondine, which had almonds, Georgia brown butter, capers, charred lemon, parsley and buttered lettuce. It was delicious, and the whole establishment is a showcase for seasonal, ethically sourced ingredients.
As far as award-winning is concerned, Elvie’s has received notable recognition, including being named one of the New York Times’ 50 Best Restaurants in America (2022). Post my visit, no coincidence, I am sure, it earned a 2025 MICHELIN Guide Bib Gourmand for its excellent food at moderate prices.
Country Club of Jackson
As a keen golfer, I had the opportunity to tee off at the Country Club of Jackson, one of the courses on the PGA Tour Rota. In fact, I was one of the first players to take on the course after the Sanderson Farms Championship, which was won by World top 100 player, Steven Fisk, just a few weeks before. The course is magnificent with understandably very fast greens and the penal rough, the like of which I have never encountered before. Bermuda Grass, which is not long but has the adhesive qualities of Araldite. The nicest aspect of my golf experience was not, however, the quality of the course but the quality of the company I kept. Three members invited me to play in their regular lad’s competition, and immediately I was struck by their ability to make me feel at home, part of the gang and an object of friendly ridicule. I later found this act to be typical of Mississippian behaviour and it shows in every aspect of life. As far as my quality of play is concerned, we will draw a diplomatic veil over it but a par putt of 25 feet on the last surrounded by the spectator stands left over from the professionals meant I could wave to the non-existent crowd with my head held high.
Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
Nestled in the heart of the city, the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum demands attention—not just for its moving exhibits, but because the era it explores seems to echo through every corner of the state, its presence woven into daily life. Jackson is no different and it’s refreshing to witness, observe, talk and learn at institutions and landmarks such as this museum to get a greater perspective of the events that have helped shape the Mississippi of today.
Through the use of immersive exhibits, interactive displays, and deeply personal narratives, visitors are guided through the courageous battles fought for equality. From Emmett Till, a black teenager killed and dumped in the Tallahatchie River by white extremists, to the Freedom Riders and the work of local civil rights activist Medgar Evers, who was assassinated outside his house at the height of his powers. I spoke for an hour to Hezekiah Atkins about his encounters with the local police force, as he got arrested at a Freedom Ride protest in the early 1960’s and only the intervention of President Kennedy enabled his release.
The Freedom Rides were a prolonged act of defiance in the USA by blacks and whites to draw attention to the illegal segregation that was happening in the South during that period. Hezekiah was, as a thirteen-year-old, not deterred by his experience and was eventually arrested over one hundred and twenty times for protesting. The museum not only educates but also inspires, leaving a lasting impact not only on me but surely on all who walk through its doors.
To my mind, Jackson, Mississippi, is a place where the echoes of pivotal historical moments resonate deeply yet are fused with modern Southern culture, all wrapped up in a blanket of genuine warmth and hospitality.
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