San Sebastián Gastronomika Gourmet Congress review, Basque Country, Spain

In autumn every year, the city of San Sebastián (Donostia) becomes one of the world’s leading gastronomic hubs when it stages the Gastronomika congress. Held at the Kursaal Conference Centre, right by the sea, the event brings together chefs, food-writers, producers and industry professionals.

What makes Gastronomika distinct from many other food congresses is the wide range of its focus. It’s as much about small-scale cheesemakers, fishermen and café culture as it is about Michelin starred kitchens. Outside the conference theatre there are more than 200 stands, where companies, producers and food tech firms can present their products.

The congress has always balanced local pride with global reach, and 2025 is no exception. Headliners include Peruvian Nikkei maestro Mitsuharu “Micha” Tsumura of Maido, one of the world’s most influential restaurants, alongside luminaries such as Niklas Ekstedt, Viviana Varese and a roster of Basque greats.

This year’s the theme is “Tradition and Regeneration”. The motto reflects a dual focus: on one hand, revisiting culinary traditions – the ingredients, techniques and regional knowledge that form the backbone of Basque and global cuisine; on the other, pushing beyond mere sustainability into the realm of regeneration: restoring ecosystems, cultures and food systems rather than simply maintaining them.

Roots & Territory

Gastronomika

On the opening day, chefs such as Alejandro Ibáñez (Barahonda, Yecla) emphasise memory, landscape and place as core to their cuisine. Nacho Manzano (Casa Marcial, Asturias) pays homage to his roots in the Asturian terrain, weaving family and land into his culinary narrative. And Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi, Basque Country) reflects on time and tradition, arguing that “the past is essential” as a foundation for meaningful cuisine.)

Sea & Sustainability

The sea emerges as a key protagonist. Sessions explore how the Cantabrian-Atlantic marine cultures are pushing the potential of algae and “super blue foods,” and the role of artisanal fishing. And how chefs can go beyond buying local, to actively support biodiversity, heritage and sea restoration.

Pedro Subijana

A standout session titled “Kombu Umami” features Japanese chefs Hideki Matsuhisa (Koy Shunka, Barcelona), Yoshikazu Yanome (Kaido Sushi Bar, Valencia) and Takashi Okui (Tsuruga, Japan). They explore the two-year maturation of Kombu, the essence of umami and seaweed, not just as an exotic garnish, but as a major ingredient.

Innovation, Fermentation & Smoke 

On the closing day, sessions like “Sweet Autumn Tour” with Jordi Roca (El Celler de Can Roca), and “The Spirit of Charcoal” with Katsuhito Inoue (Kyoto) place technique and elemental cooking at the heart of regeneration.

Fermentation

Another panel, “GOe: Fermentation as a Pathway to a Delicious Future”, anchored by John Regefalk, Jose Mari Aizega and Cipriano Carrero (Basque Culinary Centre) explores how fermentation works as a driver of flavour, preservation and sustainability.

Heston Blumenthal

Gastronomika

The festival’s marquee Tribute Award goes to British chef Heston Blumenthal, a figure synonymous with curiosity-driven gastronomy and multisensory dining. The award acknowledges not just Blumenthal’s technical inventions but his long-standing influence on how chefs think about experience, memory and the science of flavour.

He uses his platform to argue that chefs need to redesign their menus, to take into account the effect of weight loss drugs. Around four per cent of the UK adult population are now taking them, with a further 28 per showing interest in using them in the future. At his 3* restaurant, the Fat Duck, he plans to offer smaller portion sizes and fewer courses.

Outside the congress hall, San Sebastián itself is an essential partner in the experience. The city’s pintxo bars and restaurants serve as living laboratories where visitors can experience what’s happening is the real world. For many delegates, the most instructive moments are here, where chefs and producers taste, argue and develop new ideas.

San Sebastián Gastronomika 2025 leaves a clear impression that the future of gastronomy is less about exotic techniques and more about repair – regenerating soil and coastal stocks. Culinary creativity can act as both a beacon and a bridge, creating markets and networks that favour sustainable producers. For chefs and restaurateurs, the charge is simple and daunting: make delicious food that offers payback at its roots.

Factfile

GO: British Airways flies direct from London Gatwick to Bilbao

The Gatwick Express is the fastest way to the airport from central London.

INFO: The next edition of Gastronomika will take place in October 2026.

Donastia San Sebastian has information about the city.

Spain has information about the country.

STAY: At the Hotel Barceló Costa Vasca.

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