Riviera Restaurant, St James, London review

Located on a prominent corner in St James’s, in the heart of Mayfair, Riviera Restaurant brings a touch of the South of France to central London. With its warm, sandy-hued tones, polished wooden floors and carefully curated artwork, the restaurant evokes the effortless glamour of the Côte d’Azur, creating an atmosphere that feels both elegant and inviting.

The restaurant made an immediate impression as we entered through automatic doors into a small but striking reception space where dramatic statement lighting set the tone. We glided up the golden escalator that’s straddled by golden textiles and Picasso art, setting the scene for a classy drop off on the first floor into the restaurant, just steps away from an open kitchen.

The dining space wraps around in a crescent with a dazzling marble-topped bar section and large floor-to-ceiling windows offering views overlooking St James’s Street. It is an alluring and convivial setting.

Daytime dining offers lashings of calming sunny daylight that dapples its way over white linen tablecloths and flickering candles. In the evening, the scene evolves into the broody romance of a starry night that throws its own inky blue darkness into the dimly lit room.

We enjoyed this duet of ambience as a late afternoon reservation drifted into dusk in an unhurried atmosphere (which is the French way) on comfortable cushioned seating.

Riviera restaurant after sunset

Gorgeous Gayu (our pet name for this utterly charming lady) brought us a glass of Jean Baptiste Adam Cremant d’Alsace,  and a basket of bread to whet our palate as we perused the menu.

I spotted the cocktail menu – as is my way. There are 10 signature cocktails, and my sweet tooth led me to the Paradis de Mange, a delicious combo of mango vodka with a fruity mix of passionfruit, vanilla, orange and lime juice, mango powder with a topping of foamy white chocolate. This cocktail is popular for its flavours, and for those who don’t or can’t drink alcohol, there is a VirginParadis de Mange too. My dining partner chose the Figue Side Car cocktail, which Cognac infused with figs, Cointreau, lemon, orange juice, and simple syrup, another delightful combination of flavours.

We start with Seabass Carpaccio with truffle Ponzu. This not only looked dazzling, but it also tasted fantastic with the citrus sauce adding a zesty, refreshing dimension to the rustic truffle and the delicate fish. 

There was enough seabass to share, and we did so along with the Riviera Josper salad. The Josper is a funky twist on the traditional Caesar Salad. The base iceberg is topped with succulent chicken and oversized garlic croutons, with a dreamy, creamy sauce and parmesan shavings. 

This was followed by two pasta dishes. The Parmesan Bucatini arrived in a giant wheel of Parmesan. The thick, hollow noodles of bucatini were theatrically tossed into a delicious creamy sauce inside the wheel before being served. The second was the Trofie Pesto, featuring twisted, tapered trofie pasta tossed with fresh basil pesto and looking appetislingly verdant.

Both were generous servings, and we still had the main course to follow. 

These were Charcoal Grilled Chicken Tahini, and I must say it was perfectly grilled, delicately seasoned and the Riviera seabass with roasted tomatoes, olives and chives in a lobster sauce. The dishes came as very ample servings, and honestly, we should not have had the dessert.

For dessert, the menu offered two stand-out desserts: a superb sea salt chocolate mousse and a Riviera Tarte Tatin with a delicious base for baked apples and a sweet caramelised sheet topped with cream and chocolate flakes.

Verdict: Overall, Riviera Restaurant offers a superbly sophisticated environment with calming coastal hues in an unhurried and romantic atmosphere. The dishes ooze delectable flavours from Southern France, and honestly, you could almost imagine that you are actually in the Côte d’Azur. Couples would love it here, especially as there is plenty of space between tables, offering privacy to flirt.

NEED TO KNOW

Riviera Restaurant. Check out the menu here

23 St James’s St, London SW1A 1HA

Nearest station is Green Park tube

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