The Speyside Way runs 137 km from Buckie, on the coast, to Newtonmore, just beyond Aviemore in the Cairngorms. It’s one of the easiest of Britain’s long distance trails to walk, being suitable for walkers of even modest abilities. High levels of fitness are not necessary and it follows the valley of the Spey – Scotland’s second longest river, and its most dynamic.

Speyside Way

River Spey

Bike on Speyside Way

The route criss-crosses the Spey and its tributaries – waters famous for salmon fishing and malt whisky production. The river and its hinterland are a haven for wildlife and threatened species. The route begins or ends in Buckie and since the prevailing winds are from the south-west, I’m going to walking and biking in the downstream direction.

Caledonian Sleeper

Caledonian Sleeper

Caledonian Sleeper

Travel up here is made painless by the Caledonian Sleeper which runs overnight from London Euston to Aviemore. My Club En-Suite Room is comfortable, there’s good food on board, and I even manage a decent night’s sleep before arriving at 7.30 in Kingussie. From here, I’ll be on foot to Aviemore, then take an e-bike to the coast.

Kingussie to Dalraddy 20km

Ruthen Barracks

Speyside Way Sign

After leaving Kingussie, I’m soon at Ruthen Barracks, built in 1721, to guard a crossing point of the River Spey. I enter the Insh Marshes National Nature Reserve and the trail undulates but is well marked. The path follows the River Tromie before crossing it and entering woodland. There are wonderful views across the moors to the snow slopes of the Cairngorms.

River Tromie

Loch Insh

Kincraig

I reach the shores of Loch Insh and follow the narrow northern edge before crossing the Spey to Kincraig village. There’s a pleasant café here, but I press on climbing steeply with panoramic views of the Spey and the Cairngorms. It’s then downhill to reach the railway line which I follow to Dalraddy Holiday Park and my comfortable chalet.

Climb after Kincraig

Dalraddy Holiday Park

Cairngorms

Dalraddy to Aviemore 6km

It’s an easy day today and I rejoin the railway line to follow the trail. On one side is the large Loch Alvie and on the other a wooded hill. At its summit is the distinctive Duke of Gordon’s monument but I carry, on crossing the railway, into the outskirts of Aviemore.

Railway Line

Cairngorms

Aviemore Station

The arrival of the railway here in the late 1800’s led to its development as a Victorian mountain resort with huge hotels such as the Cairngorm springing up. Later, in the 1960’s, winter sports arrived, with ski slopes on nearby Cairn Gorm – at 1245m it’s the sixth-highest mountain in the British Isles. The town is bustling as I make my way past the station to the Balavoulin pub where I’ll be spending the night.

The Balavoulin

Aviemore to Aberlour 65km

Next day, I pick up my e-bike and follow the National Cycle Route 7 to the Boat of Garten. Most of it follows the Strathspey Railway although I don’t spot any steam trains. Out of the town, I enter the Abernethy Forest National Reserve which is the largest area of Caledonian pine forest remaining in the UK. There’s a huge diversity of wildlife here including Ospreys but I have no time to spare.

Sign

Abernethy Nature Reserve

Bike and Spey

At Nethy Bridge, I cross the Spey and then follow the disused railway track. Anglers in waders are in the river casting for salmon although they don’t appear to be catching anything. I enter Anagach Woods, bypassing Grantown-on-Spey, following the trail to a crossing of the Spey near the village of Cromdale.

Spey Bridge

Ballindalloch Station

Spey

Here I take the road, as the next section is unsuitable for cyclists, all the way to Ballindalloch station. The Speyside Way now follows the disused railway track into the heart of whisky country. Distilleries now come thick and fast – Tamdhu then Knockando and Dalmunach before crossing the Spey and reaching the town of Aberlour. Tonight I’m in the lap of luxury at Dowans Hotel.

Tamdhu

Knockando Distillery

Dalmunach Distillery

Dowans Hotel

Aberlour to Buckie 37km

Woods

Spey

My final day starts by following the path along the River Spey for two miles to the village of Craigellachie. I then cross the river and take the road to Fochabers. Here I rejoin the trail, squeezed between the now enlarged Spey and the road. Warren Wood is a blaze of yellow gorse, then it’s Culraich Wood before arriving at the sea at Spey Bay.

Spey Bay

At the Whale and Dolphin Conservation and Wildlife Centre I turn right, eastwards along the coast. The path winds its way through conifer woods and eventually reaches open country. I join another disused railway line to reach the port of Postgordon.

Coast Road

Portgordon

Buckie

It’s then a mixture of coastal path and road to Buckie and the end of the trail at Buckpool Harbour. I’m slightly disappointed to discover that in the 1970’s it was filled in and turned into a park. A sign tells me that it’s 55 miles back to Aviemore and this is the official end of the Speyside Way. I nip into the pub and devour a Sunday roast, waiting for my Highland Yaks transport back to Aviemore

Badaguish

Caledonian Sleeper

I have one more night in a heated pod in Badaguish placed in a woodland clearing of Glenmore Forest. There’s good food here at the Penny Bun, and I reflect that the Speyside Way is one of the easiest long-distance paths I’ve followed. Half of it is on disused railway tracks and river paths, with only around 700m of ascent. Still I feel I’ve earned all the comforts of the Caledonian Sleeper as I travel back to London.

Factfile

GO: The Caledonian Sleeper goes from London Euston to Kingussie overnight.

Element Bike Hire has great E-bikes.

Highland Yaks can transport E-bikes, baggage and also arrange tours in the Cairngorms.

Cicerone’s The Speyside Way is an indispensable guide.

INFO: Visit Cairngorms has information about the region.

STAY: Chalet 33 in Dalraddy Holiday Park is luxurious accommodation.

The Balavoulin makes a comfortable base in the centre of Aviemore.

Dowans Hotel in Aberlour is a luxury country house hotel with good food.

Badaguish  is in the countryside in a quiet location just outside Aviemore.

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