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Insulating your loft, attic or flat roof is an effective way to reduce heat loss and reduce your heating bills. If the cost is prohibitive for you, there are loft insulation grants and freebies available. These are for households that qualify, to help cover the outlay. Around £3m measures were delivered through The Energy Company Obligations (ECO) grant by the end of December 2020.

Energy Savings Trust states that when installed correctly, loft insulation should pay for itself many times over in its 40-year lifetime. Unfortunately for some, the cost of insulating your home can prove too expensive, which is why the government created loft insulation grants to help those in need.

‘They’re aimed at those who need them most, such as those on low incomes or people who are receiving benefits such as Pension or Universal Credit,’ says property and construction expert Thomas Goodman at MyJobQuote.co.uk.

With ever increasing energy bills, now is a good time to look for ways to reduce your home’s energy consumption. One of the easiest and most cost-effective solutions is to install loft insulation.

According to Energy Saving Trust, installing 270mm loft insulation will cost around £395 for a detached house. However the benefits far outweigh the initial outlay, with a potential yearly saving of £380 off your energy bill.

What loft insulation grants are available in the UK?

Image credit: Future PLC

Read on to find out what loft insulation grants are on offer and if you’re eligible.

1. The Energy Company Obligations (ECO scheme)

This was put in place by the government to help reduce England’s carbon emissions and tackle fuel poverty. It’s funded by individual energy suppliers who, if they have more than 150,000 customers, are required by the government to promote the installation of measures that lead to financial savings on energy bills. This includes the installation of insulation and/or a boiler replacement.

Bear in mind that the number and type of measures each supplier will install is down to each individual supplier. To find out which energy companies are currently part of the scheme, visit the Ofgem website.

It’s likely that you will qualify for the grant if you own your own home (or have permission from your landlord) AND you currently claim the Warm Home Discount and are in the ‘core group’. You also qualify if you or someone living at the property receives benefits such as child benefit, universal credit or pension credit. For a full list of qualifying benefits visit Ofgem. Alternatively, if you are living in social housing with an EPC rating of E, F or G, you may also be eligible for the scheme.

• How to apply You have to apply for the ECO grant via your home energy supplier and each company’s process is different. But as an example, British Gas customers can register their interest on the company’s website. One of its trusted partners (who is TrustMark registered) will contact you to assess your criteria and whether your home is suitable. They will also advise on any financial contribution you may have to make, as you may not be offered the full 100 per cent of the cost of installation. If you decide to go ahead, all arrangements are made directly with the installer. Any financial contribution is paid direct to your installer.

2. The NEST scheme

Image credit: Velux

The Welsh government provides free advice and support to help people improve the energy efficiency of their home, which can include a package of free home improvements such as a replacing a boiler, central heating or insulation.

You could be eligible for free energy efficiency improvements if you meet all three conditions below:

1. Ownership or privately renting (not from a local authority or housing association)
2. Your home is energy inefficient and expensive to heat
3. You or someone you live with receives a means tested benefit. OR has a chronic respiratory, circulatory or mental health condition and an income below the defined thresholds.

• How to apply To find out what means tested benefits qualify and what the health eligibility criteria is, visit NEST. To apply, call 0808 808 2244 or request a call back via an online form. A Nest advisor will ask you some questions to see if you and your property qualify for free home energy efficiency improvements. If you qualify, they will arrange for a Nest assessor to visit to see what energy efficiency improvements they can offer.

3. Warmer Homes Scotland scheme

Image credit: Future PLC/William Goddard

Much like England’s ECO grant, this is designed to help people make their homes warmer and more comfortable by installing a range of energy-saving improvements that save money on your utility bills. In most cases all costs will be met by the Scottish Government, although sometimes a customer contribution is required.

• How to apply There’s a plethora of criteria that you need to meet to qualify. These include being the homeowner or the tenants of a private-sector landlord. You need to have lived there for at least 12 months and the house can’t be bigger than 230m2. You also need to receive certain benefits. For a full list of requirements, visit Home Energy Scotland. You can apply for the grant by calling 0808 808 2282 or using the online contact form. You’ll be offered a survey of your property and a referral to the managing agent Warmworks Scotland.

Are there any specialist loft insulation grants for pensioners?

The ECO, Nest and Warmer Homes Scotland schemes all offer insulation grants to those who receive a pension credit. But you still need to check with your energy supplier for the ECO, and Nest and Warmer Homes Scotland direct, as each will have its own set of criteria you have to meet.

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The new energy price cap has been announced by Ofgem – the figure increasing from £1,277 (for those on a default tariff paying by direct debit) to £1,971, a whopping 54% rise. Prepayment customers will see an increase of £708 to £2,017.

Effective from April this year, it’s estimated that 22 million households will be affected.

According to experts, a further rise is predicted for October 2022. Dr Craig Lowrey, Senior Consultant at Cornwall Insight said:“Our prevailing forecast of the Winter ’22-23 indicates a further increase to more than £2300 per year, but we note that there are a number of legislative and regulatory proposals in development which could affect both this figure and that for Summer ‘22.”

The increase is a response to the current energy crisis, caused in large part by increased demand and lower supply, which has also seen over 25 UK energy firms go bust since August 2021.

Jonathan Brearley, chief executive of Ofgem, said: “We know this rise will be extremely worrying for many people, especially those who are struggling to make ends meet, and Ofgem will ensure energy companies support their customers in any way they can.

“The energy market has faced a huge challenge due to the unprecedented increase in global gas prices, a once in a 30-year event, and Ofgem’s role as energy regulator is to ensure that, under the price cap, energy companies can only charge a fair price based on the true cost of supplying electricity and gas. 

“Ofgem is working to stabilise the market and over the longer term to diversify our sources of energy which will help protect customers from similar price shocks in the future.”

What is the energy price cap?

The price cap, introduced in January 2019, was meant to protect customers from big bill hikes.

The cap sets a limit on how much domestic consumers can be charged per kWh of gas and electricity on standard variable and default tariffs, and those using pre-payment meters. It also sets a maximum daily standing charge, which is how much you pay for power to be supplied to your home. 

Those on a standard variable tariff (SVT), where the price per unit of energy can change each month depending on the wholesale price of energy (which has skyrocketed amid the energy crisis), will be feeling the pinch of those increased market prices. 

The cap does not affect those on fixed rate tariffs. Customers who have chosen a standard variable green energy tariff that Ofgem has exempted from the cap, or business users.

In the past, hundreds of pounds could be saved by shopping around for the best energy deal, but spiralling costs means there are no good fixed-rate deals to be found right now.

How does the price cap work?

The cap can rise or fall, depending on the movements in the wholesale energy market. When prices go up, suppliers are able to reflect that – up to a certain point – in their customers’ bills, but it also forces them to pass on any savings they make when prices fall.

The energy regulator Ofgem reviews the price cap twice a year, in summer and winter, with any changes coming into effect in either April or October. The decision is announced publicly two months before.

Ofgem gives the price cap as a yearly amount for a typical household. 

However it is important to note that is not a maximum amount that you will pay for your energy bill – that depends on how much you use. If you have a large drafty home and a big family, you will pay more than the current figure.

What should I do if my fixed rate deal is coming to an end?

Image credit: Jeremy Baile

In the past, the best advice to save money on your energy bills was to shop around using a comparison site to find another cheap fixed rate deal. However, these deals have disappeared from the market and currently the cheapest you will find is around 56% more than the energy price cap. 

According to MoneySavingExpert.com, the cheapest fix on the market is around £1,730 a year for typical usage. That’s more than double the figure from November 2020 of just £830 a year. 

For most people, the best advice is to do nothing. Your provider will roll you on to their standard variable tariff, which means you will be protected by the price cap. Unlike a fixed rate tariff, you are not locked into a contract with a SVT, so should prices fall, you can move.

While you can’t switch, reducing how much energy you use will help to keep your bills as low as possible.

The post Energy price cap increase announced: what does this mean for your energy bills? appeared first on Ideal Home.

Designed to protect the walls directly above worktops, kitchen splashbacks are a great choice for busy family homes. With no grubby grout to clean, splashbacks are lower maintenance than tiles, and they also bring a lot to the party in terms of colour and design interest. Plus by learning how to install a kitchen splashback yourself it can be done on a budget!

While it’s not necessary to clad every inch of wall in splashback, you should definitely consider targeting the areas above the cooker and sink. This is where walls most come under fire from oily splashes and water damage. Used this way, in moderation, a stylish kitchen splashback idea can act as a focal point, drawing attention to an attractive cooker or designer sink.

How to install a kitchen splashback

Image credit: Future PLC

Kitchen splashbacks are available in various materials but the most popular for DIY installation are made from glass (including mirrored glass), acrylic, laminate, stainless steel and other sheet metals, like brass and copper. Additional kitchen wall ideas worth exploring include panelling, tiles and even vinyl wallpaper.

Always make sure you read the installation instructions before you buy a splashback, so you know what you are letting yourself in for and can get prepared with any tools or adhesives required.

Take special care to check that the material you want to use is suitable for where you want to install it; some splashbacks are not designed to be used directly behind a gas hob for instance. Discover how to fit a kitchen splashback with our easy-to-follow guide.

1. Prepare the surface

Image credit: Splashback

Good preparation is everything. Time spent getting this first essential step right will pay dividends when it comes to attaching the splashback to your wall – and keeping it there! ‘It doesn’t matter what type of material you choose for your splashback, the surface you’re putting it on has got to be flat, non-porous, dry and dust free,’ advises Claire O’Brien, head of design at Splashback.

The amount of effort required will depend on the current condition of your walls. If you have removed old tiles or ripped off a splashback panel, you may need to level any holes with filler. The surface needs to be non-porous, so that it won’t suck up the adhesive. Fresh plaster will benefit from a thin coat of PVA or primer.

Check the surface is flat using a spirit level or length of timber. Uneven surfaces can cause splashbacks to crack, especially those made from glass or acrylic, and can result in wonky gaps around the edges of any splashback.

2. Mark out the splashback position

Image credit: IKEA

Next plot out and mark the exact position you want to put your splashback on the wall. A single splashback panel should be carefully centred on the sink or cooker it is positioned above. If you are going full width with your splashback, and can do it in a single panel, it’s only the height you need to mark out. Don’t forget to use a spirit level to make sure your positioning is straight.

Allow a 2mm gap around the splashback for expansion and sealant. Pay special attention to the distance between a hob/cooker and the splashback to avoid heat damage. Aim for at least 11cm between the hob and splashback for a gas hob, and 10cm for electric, but do check for any special instructions that apply to your chosen splashback.

3. Cut the splashback to size

Image credit: B&Q

The easiest route is to buy custom-cut splashbacks that are cut to your specific measurements before they arrive! Or you can buy standard size splashback panels in a vast range of sizes, which will also allow you to skip this step. The most popular readymade splashback panel sizes are 60cm x 75cm, 90cm x 75cm and 100cm x 75cm.

Acrylic, laminate and thin sheet metals like aluminium and copper are the best options if you are determined to cut your own splashback to size. Use a fine-toothed blade that’s designed for plastics or aluminium. You may need to buy a circular saw or other specialist power tool to achieve a neat finish. Always ask your supplier for advice.

‘Mark out the dimensions on your splashback of choice before laying on a workbench. Add tape to the edges of where you will be cutting to avoid chipping the material. We also recommend laying your splashback on a soft material to avoid damage and ensure you’re wearing the necessary protective gear when working around any sharp tools,’ says Paul Bangs, Wickes’ Category Director for kitchens.

Then sand down the cut edges with a cork sanding block and 240 grit sandpaper. Always keep any protective film on the front of the splashback while you work.

Cutting stainless steel and glass splashbacks is generally best left to the professionals, as it requires expensive, heavy-duty tools for perfect results. Regardless of who cuts your splashback, always do a dry fit to ensure you are happy with the size and position – checking it doesn’t catch on any surrounding cabinets.

4. Apply adhesive

Image credit: Future PLC

While some heavy or out-sized splashbacks require screws for a firm fixing, the most popular way to attach regular glass, metal and other sheet-style splashbacks is by using a combination of double-coated foam tape and low modulus silicone adhesive. You can also buy splashbacks with pre-applied sticky backing that skips the need for extra adhesive.

First apply strips of foam tape to the top, bottom, sides and middle of the back of your splashback, taking care not to overlap. Then, using a silicone gun, apply adhesive in the areas between, in a wavy pattern, again avoiding overlap. There’s no need to go crazy, just aim for even coverage with 2-3cm wide gaps between.

5. Fix the splashback to the wall

Image credit: Bushboard

Remove the protective strip from the foam tape and firmly attach the splashback onto the wall, using your positioning lines for guidance. Apply gentle pressure evenly across the splashback, and check it is straight using a spirit level.

‘Once it’s adhered to the wall, remove any visible gaps by sealing around every edge with the adhesive, then remove any excess to finish,’ adds Paul Graham, installation expert at Bushboard. Use masking tape to hold the splashback in position while the adhesive sets – at least 24 hours but check the label on your adhesive for guidance.

Once the adhesive is cured, peel away any protective film from the front of the splashback and wipe it down with a clean, damp cloth.

6. Seal the joints

Image credit: Charlie Kingham

When the adhesive is completely cured and the splashback is firmly attached with no movement, remove any masking tape used and apply a thin line of silicone sealant – no more than 2.5mm thick – around the edges. Take special care at the joint between the splashback and worktops as you don’t want any major spills to get down the back of the cabinets. Do use a bathroom or kitchen grade silicone to ensure a watertight seal and help prevent mildew stains.

If your edges are not as neat as you’d like, or you want to add a little extra definition, consider framing the splashback with off-the-shelf trimming strips. ‘Framing a splashback panel draws attention to the material, making it feel extra space and also helps create a really tidy connection between the splashback and wall,’ says kitchen designer, Charlie Kingham.

7. Add a protective finish, if required

Image credit: Higham Furniture

Splashbacks made from glass, acrylic, stainless steel and laminate won’t need any further treatment to protect them from splashes and spills. However, if you are installing on-trend warm metallic splashbacks made from brass, copper or bronze sheeting, you might choose to apply a coating of sealant. ‘Brass and copper splashbacks are beautiful but it’s important to understand how reactive they are,’ says kitchen designer, Ben Hawkswell, of Roundhouse.

Direct exposure to moisture will alter the appearance and a mottled patina will gradually form in time and use. Some people love the aged look but if it’s not for you, either buy ready-sealed metal splashbacks or apply a thin layer of metal lacquer using a fine foam paint roller.

Are kitchen splashbacks easy to fit?

While it’s true that not all splashback materials are suitable for novice installation (for example fabricated surfaces like composite quartz and other stones), there are plenty of options aimed at keen DIYers.

You can make life a lot easier for yourself by buying splashback panels that don’t need to be cut. However, there’s plenty of companies now offering custom cutting services using your own dimensions or templates, including cut-outs for switches and sockets, as well as a wide range of readymade sizes held in stock.

Acrylic and laminate splashbacks are arguably the easiest to install yourself because they are lightweight, thin and are often supplied with self-adhesive backings.

What are the easiest splashback panels to fit DIY?

‘Aluminium panel splashbacks are straightforward to install by any homeowner who is both confident making basic DIY updates and inclined towards carrying out projects at home. Splashbacks made from aluminium panels can be easily cut, drilled and shaped to fit required measurements using standard tools,’ says Paul Graham, installation expert at Bushboard.

‘Purpose-made laminate splashbacks are another great option for creating a sleek, uniform look when paired with a worktop in the same finish. Installation requires slightly more preparation and skill. However it’s certainly a job that a competent DIY enthusiast could carry out independently, without expert help.’

Image credit: Wren

How can you avoid joint lines when fitting a splashback?

‘Splashbacks are commonly available in a variety of dimensions, so in the first instance, I’d recommend choosing a size that best fits your space. However sometimes, particularly in larger areas, joining two panels is an inevitability,’ says Paul Graham, installation expert at Bushboard.

The best joining option depends on the material. Some metal splashbacks are available with specialist jointing plates that help achieve a neat connection. Otherwise, it’s a case of butting the panels as close together as possible and using a clear or colour-matched silicone to create a watertight seal.

How do you stick a splashback to the wall?

To stick a splashback to the wall you can use two options. The first, and neatest because there are no visible fixings, is adhesive. Some splashbacks will adhere with double-sided sticky tape only, but most require a combination of silicone sealant and tape to help hold the splashback firmly in place while the silicone dries.

Do read the installation instructions supplied with your splashback with regards to the type of silicone that will work best but, generally, a Low Modulus sealant (a.k.a. low mod) is preferred because it is slightly stretchy and can handle more movement than rigid High Modulus options.

The second way to stick a splashback to the wall is using screws. In which case your splashback should come with pre-drilled holes and the requisite screws and rawl plugs. If you can put up a shelf, you shouldn’t have any trouble screwing a splashback to the wall. The most important thing to remember is to not overtighten the screws. Use rubber washers if possible. Overtightening can crack or damage a splashback.

The post How to install a kitchen splashback – protect your walls in seven easy steps appeared first on Ideal Home.