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If your home inkjet photo printer isn’t performing as well as it did in the past, it’s could be that you’ve forgotten a key maintenance procedure that you’ve only used once; namely, when you pulled the printer out of its box and set it up for the very first time.
What we’re talking about is the oft-ignored nozzle check that some users mistakenly think of as a set-it-and-forget-it task. In this tutorial with instructor Keith Cooper you learn why a periodic nozzle check is so important, what it actually does, and what to do if it fails to fix your problem
Cooper is a British architectural photographer and output specialist who frequently posts videos about achieving the best possible prints—whether you order them from a service bureau, or in the case of today’s lesson, you output them at home.
According to Cooper, “paying attention to this simple test can prolong the life of a printer.” If the test results indicate a problem you can then run one or more cleaning cycles until your prints appear accurate and clean. Cooper explains how many time you should perform the cleaning procedure before giving up, and when it’ s a waste of both time and ink. At that point it’s time for Plan B.
A nozzle check works much the same on most photo-quality inkjet printers, but it’s important to check your instructional manual to nail down the procedure for your specific model. Cooper explains how to interpret the information on the test print you make and identify whatever problems that need to be addressed.
You’ll learn how often to perform a nozzle check and problems that can occur if your printer sits unused for a prolonged period of time. Unfortunately, you can go through a lot of paper and ink when performing multiple tests and cleaning cycles, but Cooper has a few suggestions for economizing on these consumables.
Cooper also explains why you should avoid using a printer’s Power Cleaning mode when the Normal Cleaning mode fails, “because it’s very, very rarely needed and all it usually does is waste ink.” We strongly suggest bookmarking this lesson for future reference and making a commitment to keeping your printer happy and healthy by following Cooper’s expert advice.
The last time we featured one of Cooper’s tutorials was back in May, when he demonstrated how to make great b&w prints with a home inkjet printer that’s produced mediocre results in the past.
When photographers use the term “workflow” they’re usually referring to the process they use when editing their photos, but there’s another essential workflow to consider that doesn’t get as much attention. And that’s the shooting workflow that relies upon key camera settings to capture the best possible images in the field
The video below provides what is essentially a camera-settings checklist that can significantly enhance your photography experience by making sure that your camera is properly configured for the types of images you shoot. Landscape photographer Jalen Oban begin this episode with a question: “Out of all the settings in your camera’s menu do you know which ones are the most important?”
Or maybe you just got a new camera and you’re confused by which default options you should change. Another possibility is that you just need a reminder of what various settings do. In any case, Oban will set you straight in just about eight minutes.
Oban puts it like this: “Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned photographer, adjusting your settings can significantly improve the quality of your images.” This is the type of smooth workflow you’ll learn today and likely use in the future with great results. Physical buttons and menu items differ in location and nomenclature from one brand to another, but their functions are essentially the same.
One of the most important decisions to make has to do with file format; namely whether you want to shoot Raw files or Jpegs. Oban explains why the former offer better image quality and more flexibility during the editing process. However, there are times when the much smaller Jpegs will suffice— depending upon how you intend to use the photos you capture. In some cases you may want to configure the camera to capture both Raw files and Jpegs at the same time.
Another important task is to dial up the most appropriate focus mode, and this setting has a lot to do whether you shoot static scenes like landscapes or photos with motion like wildlife or action sports subjects. Here, Oban describes the various options available for boosting your odds of success
The foregoing is just a couple examples of the key choices that Oban describes. Some of these are of the set-it-and-forget-it variety, while others depend upon the specific task at hand, light levels, and other important variables. So grab your camera, start the video, and customize your settings as the lesson proceeds.
Oban’s instructional YouTube channel is a great source of information for everyone who shoots in the field, so take a close look and elevate your skills.
We also recommend an earlier tutorial we posted from another accomplished landscape photographer who provides several pro tips for protecting your camera and lenses from damage when shooting in the great outdoors..
This two-minute post-processing tutorial from instructor Mike Wardynski demonstrates a simple technique for creating various edits of a single photo and accelerating the workflow without taking up extra space on your hard drive. The process involves the use of what are known as “virtual copies,” and it’s easy to understand how they work.
Wardynski is a successful nature photographer who is equally adept behind the computer. He begins the episode with a nice image of a coyote trotting across a ridgeline with a snowy slope in the foreground and a gray sky behind the animal that almost gives the photo a monochromatic look. But watch how quickly and efficiently he can create other interesting effects of the same shot with a few Virtual Copies in Lightroom.
A keyboard shortcut is all it takes to get started; Control-click on a Mac, and Right-click on a PC. You’ll then see a dropdown menu and the option you want is labeled Create Virtual Copy. Making this selection creates a duplicate image in the film strip at the bottom of your screen “without taking up any extra space on the hard drive.”
You can make as many of these copies as you wish, and Wardynski says the reason for doing so is simple: “For example, maybe I want to work on a b&w version as well as edit another in color.” But there are other benefits of this approach, like experimenting with different crops, various aspect ratios, and creating both horizontal and vertical images of the same scene
There are a few other tricks to learn and they’re all super easy to employ. By default, Lightroom indicates the various copies in the film strip as Virtual Copy 1, Virtual Copy 2, etc. and it can be difficult to remember which is which when working with several different versions. Wardynski solves this problem by demonstrating how to change the name of each copy.
There’s another great trick for grouping and stacking multiple versions to clean up the filmstrip as per your preference.. Wardynski provides the necessary keyboard shortcuts for stacking and unstacking these groupings while you proceed.
There’s much more great advice for streamlining the editing process on Wardynski’s instructional YouTube channel, so be sure you take a look.
And don’t miss the earlier tutorial we featured with another post-processing expert who explains how to correct White Balance in any photograph every time, with any image-editing software you use.