On a recent Holland America Line cruise, I was fascinated that North America’s maritime provinces and states have a particular feel. There are impressive fortifications and quaint, sailboat-filled coves, mighty stone architecture alongside brightly painted clapboard houses that date back to the early days of French and British settlers. I got to enjoy all that and lobster dinners by the dozen, on the classic cruise ship Zuiderdam.
I arrive in Canada and check into Le Capitole hotel in Quebec City for the night, a modern hotel, built into a historic theatre. It’s a balmy mid-September day, and late afternoon is spent walking the city fortifications, from a stone gate in the old town along earthbanks that follow the St Lawrence River, around blockhouses, watchtowers and other relics.
Moving on to Grand Allee, a road lined with extravagant, historic houses, I’m enchanted by the flamboyant lampshades that line Cartier Avenue and take a turn, passing restaurants, coffee shops, bars and independent stores that seem to go on forever. I later find that it’s rated one of the city’s unknown treasures in the Art District.
I then loop back to the hotel as the sun is setting and down a bottle of Quebec red with some snacks in front of our room’s picture window as the sun disappears and jet lag kicks in.
Day 1 on board Zuiderdam
A Parisian street scene in Quebec City
Before checking out I take an early dip in the 9th-floor pool with views across the St Lawrence harbour and Zuiderdam ship and the low peaks beyond before breakfast in Il Teatro, the hotel’s Italian(ish) restaurant that occupies the theatre foyer.
An 11am ship check-in, and it’s back into town. A shuttle bus nips us past the mega grain silos on the quayside, we walk across the lift bridge that opens frequently to serve the yacht harbour and into the bustling old streets, like Paris from a Hollywood movie.
I walk amongst the stone buildings close to the water, crowds following bearded guides in dramatic historic costume as the sounds of lute and dulcimer fill the air. Then up to the near-clifftop riverfront promenade that runs past Chateau Frontenac, the palace-like hotel from the grand days of rail travel, pop into the grandiose interior, then continue along more Parisian streets, winding back to the ship in time for a drink on deck as the sun sets over the stunning scenery before a late evening departure.
Day 2 on board Zuiderdam
Quebec City’s grand riverside hotel, Chateau Frontenac
By morning, the idea that St Lawrence is a river does not make sense. It’s so wide that it’s like we were on an ocean cruise along a wild coast, on both sides. I sneak in a small breakfast before strolling on deck to work up an appetite for the Canada and New England Brunch that’s served for all in the main dining room.
No casual buffet, this, it’s a classy menu that could pass as breakfast – blueberry pancake stacks or brioche French toast with glazed apple (both with maple syrup) or lunch – smoked salmon chowder, crab and salmon cakes, blackened sole sandwich. For those strong enough, there’s Royal Dutch Tea at 3pm.
Not enough? In the Lido Market, the upmarket buffet, you could have squeezed in a lunch of other Eastern Canadian favourites poutine – cheesy French fries – and beaver tails, flat, deep-fried doughnut-like affairs.
Day 3 on board Zuiderdam
Zuiderdam’s colourful cake walk
It’s late September yet the weather’s lovely. It’s a day for wandering the ship, relaxing in the Crow’s Nest, the bar-lounge-games room that curves around the front of the ship, the panorama window giving enticing views of both coasts as the river becomes the Gulf of St Lawrence.
I have to admit being distracted by the Cake Me Away celebration in Lido Market, 17 varieties to choose from, as many as you could eat, all free – I stalled after sizable slices of Mocha Praline and Salted Caramel. Then a late afternoon session under the warm sun in an on-deck hot tub, with more views, before a glass of wine on the balcony of my warmly wood-toned room.
Day 4 on board Zuiderdam
The beautiful desolation of Brighton Beach lighthouse.
The scenery has changed, and we’re snaking past the jagged coastlines of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia on one side, Prince Edward Island on the other, a narrow waterway that becomes a narrow channel entering the three-pronged, sheltered bay of the latter’s capital, Charlottetown.
It’s small-town colonial, filled with history, such as the countryside home of L.M. Montgomery, author of the children’s story Anne of Green Gables, a popular excursion for the ship’s guests. I simply stroll around the shops of Victoria Row, brick buildings from the 1800s, pop into early 20th-century St Dunstan’s Basilica, a Gothic revival masterpiece, its twin towers topped by delicate pinnacles, then head through the ancient silver birches of Victoria Park, where I see a chipmunk.
When I hit the water’s edge, I make a brief detour to see the ancient, timber Brighton Beach lighthouse before a coastal walk back to town, finishing with a maple walnut cornet at the famed local Cow’s ice-cream on picturesque Peake’s Quay.
Day 5 on board Zuiderdam
The world’s biggest fiddle welcomes Zuiderdam to Sydney
We’ve followed the north coast of Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island, and we’re now at Sydney, along an estuary and on the Sydney River. The waterfront is dominated by the world’s biggest fiddle, a 60-foot steel recreation of the musical instrument central to the region’s Celtic music.
Sydney is tiny but with a clutch of historic sights, not least Cossit House, built in 1787, one of the island’s oldest buildings – but its simple timber interior looks every bit a desirable Airbnb. I walk the lively main street – well, there were four cruise ships in – then double back along the waterside boardwalk.
Cossit House’s historic simplicity
Day 6 on board Zuiderdam
Peggy Cove’s lighthouse
More Nova Scotia, this time the bright lights of Halifax, the province’s capital, after passing a barrage of batteries, forts and lighthouses at the narrow bay’s entrance. Bagpipes are playing as we step off the ship, but we soon outrun them along the boardwalk. Little boats and ferries dart about, bars and restaurants amongst historic spots, including the Maritime Heritage District with warehouses, twin ships to visit and the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic.
Walk up the hill in the middle of town, and there’s the Citadel/Fort George, a star-shaped 18th-century British fortification. There’s an entry charge, but Citadel Hill itself is lofty, free parkland with immense views. I combine a walk with an excursion to Peggy’s Cove, a small fishing community, now a tourist focal point, particularly for the lighthouse that sits on a tumble of glassy-smooth rocks.
The little harbour at Peggy’s Cove
Day 7 on board Zuiderdam
A lazy morning as we approach Portland, Maine, through a maze of islands. There are lighthouses and luxury retreats, yachts criss-crossing our path in idyllic fashion. We dock right in the centre of the Old Port area, where the surrounding roads are lined with brick Victorian buildings full of independent shops, bars and, importantly, lobster restaurants.
After wandering happily around, I joined a tour on an open-sided trolley bus that nips around the streets before heading into the suburbs, across Casco Bay Bridge and on to Portland Head Light, a lighthouse from 1791, the state’s oldest, built at the order of George Washington.
Crashing waves and a stirring coastal walk. Today we don’t depart until evening, so we have a sunset treat at Portland Lobster Company, a waterfront hut with deck and bar, a 1lb steamed lobster with corn on the cob, fries and coleslaw for $34.99 (£26) in a beautifully casual setting, aided by a glass of wine or two.
Lobster dinner in the evening sun at Portland Lobster Company
Day 8: arrive in Boston
Bunker Hill Monument – I climbed the 294 steps!
We arrive in Boston and we stay on for two nights before flying home. From the W Hotel, the city is at our feet. We’re in the theatre district and on the edge of Chinatown. Boston Common is a street away, where the Freedom Trail starts, a two and a half mile walk marked by red brick in the sidewalk. It crosses the city from what is the nation’s oldest public park to hilltop Bunker Hill Monument (221ft tall with 294 steps), marking the revolution’s first major battle, taking in the history of American Independence with houses, churches and meeting houses.
The Zuiderdam ship
The Sea View pool area, Zuiderdam
Zuiderdam is modest-sized (1,988 guests) and, like all Holland America Line’s ships, neatly maritime with no need for gimmicks. It has a Venetian theme; models of masked harlequins, gaily painted ornate benches, extravagant statuary and a mirrored seahorse glittering over the atrium stairs.
There’s a pool deck tucked away midship, the pool and four hot tubs overseen by a playful polar bear statue. Pass through the Lido Market buffet and you come to the Sea View pool with two hot tubs in a gorgeous spot at the back of the ship, with bar.
And there are plenty of bars, quiet ones as well as the lively Rolling Stone Lounge with covers rock band and Billboard Onboard (lively pianist taking requests).
Elsewhere, low-key jazz and an exceptional female classical piano/violin duo, although perhaps the Celtic drummer was going a bit too far. The World Stage theatre featured shows by Breton Thunder, a Celtic heavy rock band, and comedian Dave Konig (who’s been in highly-rated TV shows such as The Marvelous Mrs Maisel, even crazed detective movie Final Rinse alongside Joey Ramone and Frank (The Riddler) Gorshin, as well as somewhat more conventional cruise ship song and dance fare.
There’s a great gym with curving views around the front, nicely hidden Greenhouse Spa with a hot pool, sports courts for pickleball and more.
A calm, comfortable balcony room on board Zuiderdam
The food
The sophisticated style of the Dining Room on Zuiderdam
The food is some of the best you’ll find on a cruise ship. The Dining Room, across two floors, is discreet, calm, white-tableclothed main restaurant serving an impressive choice with plenty of fish (you could dine on salmon every day), with lots of chowder, steaks and regional fare, all included, plus added-cost extras such as the $35 lobster. There were regular themed nights, the Dutch Dinner, for instance.
The Lido Market always had an array of freshly sliced roasts, seafood and more, as well as the New England themed night, all for no added cost. The Dive In deck takeaway is good for burgers and hot-dogs – or just a quick pouch of fries – through the day.
There are several extra-charge restaurants – Pinnacle Grill (steaks and seafood, $52 plus 18% service, so about £45, but still with supplements of up to $15), Canaletto (Italian) and occasional pop-ups such as Morimoto (sushi-led Asian). Elsewhere, lots of free cake if you buy a speciality coffee.
How to do it
A Nova Scotia sunset
Zuiderdam has a seven-night Canada & New England: UNESCO Sites & Quebecois Nights itinerary from May to October 2026. From £799, cruise-only, for the May 9 departure from Boston, calling at Portland, Halifax, Sydney and Charlottetown. Air Canada flies to Montreal from London Heathrow with connections to Quebec City and Boston. Further Maritime voyages are available on sister ship Volendam. CHECK AVAILABILITY
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