This quick tutorial from photographer Simon d’Entremont begins with a question: “Have you either wondered how spot metering works in your camera, or tried it and got inconsistent results like blown highlights or crushed shadows? If so, you’ve come to the right place.

Simon is a highly acclaimed nature photographer based in Nova Scotia, Canada with a portfolio full of stunning images. In this episode he calls on his shooting skills and great photos to explain and illustrate when spot metering is your friend, and situations in which this exposure technique  can be a feisty foe by “creating a problem rather than solving one.”

The lesson kicks off with a brief overview of the fundamentals of light metering so that Simon can present the Spot mode in proper context. He puts it like this “Your camera has a light meter, and its role is to tell the camera how much reflected light there is in a scene. This information is needed by the camera whenever you use an automatic or semi-automatic mode like Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual with auto ISO.”

In all of these modes the camera changes one or more exposure settings on your behalf to capture an image with the “correct” brightness level based upon the value of medium gray. So here’s the takeaway: “Where metering modes come in, like Matrix, Center Weighted, or Spot is you can tell the camera what parts of the photo to look at when taking a brightness reading.”

In Spot Metering the camera takes the reading from a very small part of a scene—typically only 3-5% of the frame. When done right, this can be a very powerful tool in situations when your main subject is significantly lighter or darker than its surroundings. In fact, if you follow Simon’s advice it’s almost impossible to get things wrong.

But here’s the rub: An incorrect use of the Spot mode virtually guarantees the opposite result. So listen up, avoid the mistakes, and you’ll become very confident about getting the light right forever more. Then pay a visit to Simon’s instructional YouTube channel where you’ll find an abundance of great advice.

We also recommend watching another eye-opening tutorial we featured with a demonstration of five dynamic methods of composing outdoor images used by a National Geographic photographer.

If you’re new to post-possessing we empathize with the plight and what must seem like an insurmountably steep learning curve due to the seemingly endless array of features and tools offered by just about any software you use. Today’s video will help ease the pain and accelerate the process by identifying five common errors made by novices and even intermediate photographers.

Instructor Scott Keys is a successful pro specializing in wildlife photography with an emphasis on birds. He’s also equally adept behind the computer and the goal for this 17-minute beginners guide is to prevent you from falling prey to a handful of image-editing problems that bedeviled many of us when first getting started.

According to Keys, many photographers are guilty of overcropping because they’re “hyper-concerned” with making the main subject in a scene as prominent as possible—especially when their lens isn’t long enough to get in as tight as possible. As a result, they turn to excessive cropping that can really mess up a shot for the reasons Keys explains.

Another super common editing error (that we sometimes see from more advanced photographers) is what Keys refers to as “slider overload.” This occurs because many users fail to appreciate the beauty that results from a subtle approach to processing. Thus, photographs often appear “overlooked” because of a heavy-handed method of using a variety of adjustment sliders—especially when it comes to sharpening and noise reduction.

A third mistake that creates unnatural photos has to do with modifying light in a way that simply doesn’t appear natural. Here Keys provides two examples that illustrate these issues and a simple solution for each. The first faux pas involves how some folks attempt to simulate Golden Hour by incorrectly changing color temperature. Also problematic is a tendency to adjust exposure in a way that make images look fake.

There are still two additional problems (and fixes) to round out the lesson, and you’ll have to watch the video to see what they are. Suffice to say, they can be equally damaging during the editing process as those mentions above. Likewise, the simple corrections are very easy to understand.

While this lesson is presented with wildlife imagery in mind, everything you learn will prove equally valuable for all genres of photography in the field. Once you’re done take a trip to Keys’ YouTube channel where there are many more videos of interest.

We also recommend that you check out another tutorial we featured, explaining when and how to use Lightroom’s powerful Local Adjustment tools to significantly elevate the quality and impact of your photographs.

We’ve fully updated our review of the Nikon Z 28-400mm f/4-8 VR, including detailed tests from the field and the lab. Though not a perfect lens, it’s surprisingly usable throughout the zoom range and makes a lot of sense if you want a single do-it-all optic.

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