Q:I have booked a holiday to Jordan, but is it safe to travel there in the wake of growing military activity in the region?
A: The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, a popular winter sun destination for tourists, has traditionally been considered safe. Since the Hamas attack on Israel on October 7th 2023 the region has seen escalating military action around Gaza and the Rafah border with Egypt. When the fight tipped into the Red Sea, many cruises redesigned their itineraries to destinations away from Aqba, the only coastal city in Jordan.
On Tuesday, the Jordanian airspace was temporarily closed after ballistic missiles from Iran targeted at Israel were intercepted over Jordan – including over Amman. The immediate result was the cancellation or diversion of several flights. The Jordanian airspace is open again.
The FCDO – Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office – advises “against all travel to within 3km of the border with Syria” and continues to highlight that Syria is “fragile” and “security threats in the form of instability or terrorist activity could arise with little or no notice”.
The FCDO advises against all travel to Syria and to “be particularly cautious” in areas close to the Jordanian borders with Israel, the West Bank and Syria and points out that there may be “heightened anti-western sentiment”.
However, Jordan is a huge country with its most popular historic sites are a safe distance from the danger zones.
What if I have booked a package holiday to Jordan?
Travellers who have booked package holidays to the FCDO 3km “no go” area can cancel and receive a full refund. Holidays to other popular regions in Jordan such as Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea and Amman are considered safe and not eligible for a refund. These destinations are at least seven hours’s drive away from the 3km zone.
I’m initially attracted to this part of the world by the second Somerset and Exmoor Coastal Festival which includes an 80 miles in Eight Days walking challenge. The idea is to showcase Somerset’s unique yet overlooked coastline, somewhere new to me. Unfortunately I can’t make the dates so instead I decide to hire an e-bike and explore the area on two wheels.
From London, it’s a short two hour train journey to Weston-Super-Mare and I’ve arranged to have my e-bike delivered to the station. Brean is only a 45 minute ride away but my plans are scuppered by a torrential downpour. Instead I cadge a lift with the owner of the bike company and he deposits bike and me to my bed and breakfast. After lunch the rain stops and the sun comes out so I set out to explore.
Brean Down
Brean Down is a dramatic limestone promontory jutting one and half miles into the Bristol Channel. I ride along the coast road and, at the end of the beach, am confronted by rugged cliffs rising up to under 100m. It doesn’t sound much but the steep track is pretty challenging although the e-bike takes the strain. At the top, I’m rewarded by views across the bay to Weston-Super-Mare and south across the Somerset Levels.
The area forms part of a National Trust-managed nature reserve, home to rare plants and animals, including peregrine falcons, kestrels, and several species of butterflies. After the rain, all is green, although the autumn leaves are turning and I follow the track to the far end of the peninsula. Looming in the distance are the ruins of the Victorian Brean Fort.
This was built in the 1860’s as part of Britain’s coastal defences to protect the ports of the Bristol Channel. Over the years, it played a role in both World Wars, serving as a lookout and gun battery but now all that remains is an empty shell. Still, it’s an atmospheric place and there are panoramic views of the Somerset coastline, the Welsh mountains, and the twin islands of Steep Holm and Flat Holm.
Burnham-on-Sea
Next day I’m aiming for Burnham-on-Sea and the newly opened stretch of the King Charles III Coastal Path follows the beach all the way. At seven miles, this is one of the longest stretches of sand in the UK with also the second highest tidal range in the world. That means the sea goes out a long way, but rushes in across the sand at high tide.
Still, I’ve a couple of hours and I start on Berrow Beach, home to the haunting remains of the SS Nornen, a Norwegian barque that ran aground in 1897. It’s a wonderful feeling cycling across the firm sand, dodging dogs and their owners. Running along the edge of the beach, Berrow Dunes is a local nature reserve supporting numerous different species of flowering plants
The buildings of Burnham appear in the distance and I pass the lighthouse, a striking red and white structure standing on wooden stilts on the sand. The sea is getting closer and I ride under the pier, one of the shortest in Britain, looking for a way to get off the beach. Water is already lapping along the bottom of the nearest slipway and I get my feet wet as I steer the bike onto dry land.
From here the trail follows the prom and then turns inland along the banks of the River Brue. Just before Highbridge, it continues south to Bridgewater but I’ve got a lunch appointment at Rich’s Cider Farm. Gordon Rich started pressing apples here in 1954 and the third generation of his family continues the business. They’ve expanded and now source 80% of their apples from other orchards in the area. Cider production is a staggering half million litres per year amd they’re now exporting to Thailand.
After a filling carvery lunch washed down with glass of their vintage cider, I make my way back to Brean cross country. It leads me past Brent Knoll, one of the few hills in this flat area before bringing me back to the coast. Now the tide is out so I have miles and miles of sandy beach to myself.