Billed as Charming South of France, the cruise dawdled from Lyons to Arles along two of France’s most majestic rivers. Onboard the VIVA VOYAGE we were sailing along the Rhone and Saône (a tributary of the Rhône) rivers, taking in all that the region offers. Boarding in Lyon, we set sail for Chalon-sur-Saône, witnessing neat vineyard-infused riverscapes in Tournus and Mâcon. Then, returning to Lyon, the cruise continued south on the Rhône, visiting Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Viviers, Avignon and to Arles.

Views from the deck

Landscape of vines

As it was August, the sun accompanied us on deck and shimmered on the river’s surface like a glass mirroring the moving scenery in every shade of green. Birds skimmed the surface radiating water ripples, children played at the water’s edge next to half-eaten picnics. We glided past orchards and the fading carpets of the Provençal lavender. Stone villages came into view around hidden bends. Church steeples stretched to the sky, with houses scattered around, leisure boats hugged the edge, bridges arched over us while residents waved, shouting greetings in a perfect French accent. Parasols shaded bustling restaurants with tables laden with baskets cradling crunchy French bread. All this, while playing a game of golf, taking a dip in the whirlpool on the sun deck or simply relaxing. Bliss.

The ship – VIVA Voyager

VIVA VOYAGE is one of VIVA Cruises’ premium ships, featuring 76 spacious cabins and suites across 3 decks. It was built in 2005 and has retained its classical style of polished wood, comfortable seating and a marble atrium which forms the welcome lobby to accommodate 150 guests – a comfortable number to get to know fellow guests.

The Panorama Lounge served as the social hub, with a bar for favourite cocktails, a resident pianist and talks by the Cruise Director providing valuable advice for the next day’s destination visit. An elevator connected the lobby with the restaurant, the Ruby and Diamond decks.

My cabin was comfortable and spacious (15 m²in size), with two services daily. There were twin/double or junior suites (19 m²), including a flat-screen TV, daily stocked mini-bar, RITUALS® toiletries, hairdryer, safe, air conditioning, shower and toilet. The cabins on the Ruby and Diamond decks all had French balconies

Dining and Sipping with VIVA

The ship had two restaurants: the main one, RIVERSIDE served an ever-changing menu of dishes with a distinct French flavour, from Tartare of Boeuf, Gratin de Chou-Fleur (cauliflower florets with Cheesy Béchamel Sauce) or Bisque D’Homard, (Lobster Bisque with Cognac Foam) to main courses of Blanquette de Veau a l’ancienne (veal cubes in mushroom sauce) and Truite De Riviere Meuniere (River Trout). 

Sweet tempting finales included Tarte Au Citron Meringuee Traditionnelle for dinner. Lunch was a light bite in the lounge or a healthy buffet in the restaurant with cooked items to order while breakfast included freshly-made smoothies and à la carte dishes. The menus were presented in German and English and listed a good choice of vegan and vegetarian dishes.

Tucked away at the stern was Vino Vino, a small French bistro – a more intimate and casual affair with a smaller menu and which required a reservation.  Here you could munch into a hearty signature burger, a Croque Madame, salad niçoise or vegan curry while watching the sunset from your table.

Tea and coffee were always on tap with facilities in your cabin or in the atrium.

What to expect to see onshore

We boarded in Lyon, France’s third biggest city, an authentic place, and one unscathed by war. It’s where the Saône meets the Rhone and divides the city into two. Its uniqueness lies in the secret passages, known as traboules which unravel behind discreet, heavy wooden doors (270 in total) which follow narrow, cobbled tunnels in the silk workers’ district which are believed to have been built in the fourth century as a quick route between the river and the maze of streets, They were used during World War ll for meetings of the French Resistance when the city was under German occupation. In 1964 Vieux-Lyon, (Old Lyon) was declared a historical monument, keeping its historical significance since the 14th century.

The river cruise introduced us to Burgundy, south-east of Paris. We sailed first to Chalon sur, Saône where a coach tour transported us to Beaune, 45 minutes away, while following part of the Grand Cru wine route. Beaune is a walled city with ancient ramparts. Here, a key place to visit is Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune, a former charitable alms-house founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin. And it was here where we tasted the local, stinky cheese, Époisses, which we learned is the highest rated cheese in the world!

Wine is king in this region. Regimented grooves of vines define the slopes and meadows, where no irrigation is allowed, relying instead on their deep roots. Plots are named after medieval times and the vines grown include Chardonnay, (50%), Pinot Noir (40%) and Gamay (10%).

Other excursions included Cluny Abbey which was home to the largest church in Christendom, the mother house of over 1000 monasteries. The French Revolution disbanded monastic orders and many of the sites’ buildings were sold. A trip to Mâcon, the Burgundian wine bastion is perfect for wine tasting full-bodied Chardonnays such as Pouilly Fuissé, or dry wines like Saint-Véran. Don’t leave without tasting the classic boeuf bourguignon. The wooden house (Maison de Bois) in the city centre is the oldest building. Its wood façade is decorated with a multitude of saucy statuettes and masks of men and monkeys making faces. On the east side of the Saône, the Bresse region is famous for its poultry – coq au vin maybe?

An excursion to visit Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a must not only for its world-famous wine but its unique position on a hill which appears like an island rising out of the grapevines. At its summit are remnants of the chateau built by the Popes in the 14th century as a place to stay to escape the summer heat. The Palace of the Popes in Avignon is the largest surviving Gothic palace in Europe while Arles is famed for inspiring the paintings of Van Gogh. Book one of the many excursions organised by VIVA Cruises to explore French culture, history and scenery or hop on one of their bicycles on board to explore the area independently.

What’s included in a VIVA Cruise:

On board passengers have access to high-quality drinks throughout the day. In addition to soft drinks, tea, mineral water and juices, alcoholic drinks such as sparkling wine, cocktails and high-quality beers  available at all times. The all-inclusive offer also includes extensive full board with flexible meal times with a breakfast buffet, multi-course lunch and dinner, as well as a high-tea and Wi-Fi. Excursions are not included.

How to get there

Direct flights from London to Lyon (London Heathrow with BA and London Gatwick with EasyJet)

How Much

Prices starting from £1,595 per person. Further information on VIVA Cruises here.

About VIVA Cruises

VIVA Cruises has 9 ships which sail to Europe’s popular destinations offering flexibility and choice and designed to enrich, inspire and renew. They follow all the greatest rivers (Danube, Elbe, Moselle, Rhine, Rhône, Seine and the Main-Danube Canal), delivering guests into the heart of timeless towns and villages as well as the world’s most thriving capitals.

You may also like: Why a European no-fly cruise on board Ambition is plain sailing

The post Explore Charming South of France with VIVA Cruises on VIVA Voyager appeared first on The Travel Magazine.

La Tzoumaz ski resort is in a small, quiet village and the contrast to Verbier’s electric, non-stop party town is huge. Unlike Verbier, the hotels in La Tzoumaz are understated, with unhurried restaurants and quiet bars. And it’s much cheaper too.

La Tzoumaz is also great for families, with a swimming pool beneath the gondola terminal, a free outdoor ice rink (with boules and ice hockey (gear available from the nearby tourist office) and occasional ice discos, and a 700m toboggan run. It even has its own excellent, friendly ski school, Tzoum ‘Evasion.

Boutique Hotel Papill’on sets the tone for laid-back life in La Tzoumaz

Below La Tzoumaz, the mountain drops away to the Rhone Valley where the town of Riddes is on the rail line that, via a change in Martigny, will get you to Geneva airport in two hours.

It’s a 25-minute taxi ride from the station or a shuttle bus to the Riddes cable car (not on your lift pass), a six-minute ride up to the village of Isérables, and then a post bus to La Tzoumaz.

For the 2024-25 season a post bus is promised direct from the station to the resort. Then, within five years or so, a lift will run all the way from outside the station to La Tzoumaz.

The skiing

From La Tzoumaz there’s a world of wide-open slopes with Verbier just over the ridge

To get to Verbier, the Tzoumaz gondola heads straight from the centre of La Tzoumaz up to a 2,344m ridgeline. Scoot down the other side and a two-minute minibus shuttle gets you to the Mayentzet chair, parallel to Verbier’s main Medran gondola. The shuttle then connects with the Savoleyres gondola to take you home. From the 2025-26 season a new chair creates a full lift connection on the way home from the 4 Vallées, the biggest ski area in Switzerland.

But Verbier isn’t the only option. La Tzoumaz has its own skiing, the Savoleyres area, three chairs, and the gondola opening up decent runs, 13 of them, from a height of 2,354m, on north-facing slopes, so good snow cover. Lots of off-piste with skiing right down to the village. For good skiers, there’s the Vallon d’Arbi back-country descent to the village from the Savoleyres ridge.

Why do it

The skiing here is high-altitude, so planty of snow

Verbier’s skiing is some of the best in the world, some 410km of runs and freeride routes (that’s signposted off-piste) with a highpoint of Mont-Fort, sitting at 3,300m and slopes open from November to late April. It’s a breathtaking ski all the way down to Verbier itself, at 1,500m, but there are also villages (Veysonnaz, Nendaz) to head off to and lots of places to explore. The town is a colourful, lively destination but sometimes you fancy something a little quieter. La Tzoumaz is a real village with an easy ski-over connection to Verbier.

It’s also cheaper to stay here if you fancy getting away from the crowds. It’s also going to be a big player in the next few years with the even better Verbier connection, and direct lift access from the main line train station. Very much part of Verbier and not a low, distant outpost as one can find elsewhere for cheaper options to a big resort.

The La Tzoumaz gondola heads straight up from the village centre

Where to eat and drink

The flaming good special at Les Trappeurs

Les Trappeurs Cosy, traditional spot in the middle of La Tzoumaz serving classic Swiss dishes, and that means plenty of cheese, although the speciality is Potence de boeuf –grilled chunks of beef (or bison) hanging on a ‘gallows’, doused in alcohol and set aflame. https://www.latzoumaz.ch/winter/offers/restaurant-les-trappeurs-la-tzoumaz-riddes-en-winter-2966181/

L’Auberge On La Tzoumaz main street, with views over the valley. Chef Christian is a former butcher and it shows, the cosy, timbered room full of a laid-back crowd raiding the menu of pork, beef, even cheval, along with rustic pate and meat fondue, but there’s also trout from the pond. Two pretty rooms for overnight stays. https://aubergelatzoumaz.com/en/

Le Central Pleasingly woody bar and coffee house across the road from the gondola. Opened autumn 2023, there are local beers (try the Tzoumaz Blanche), ethical coffee and local meat and cheese. Bar stools, sofas and a sizeable terrace with outdoor bar and valley panorama. https://www.central-latzoumaz.ch

Chez Simon Warm, traditional place, all stone and timber, on the La Tzoumaz slopes, at the top of the Savoleyres Nord chair. Lovely terrace with fabulous views from the 2,076m perch, hearty lunches and open Wednesday evenings for torchlit descents. Several rooms for overnight stays. https://laurenti.ch/chezsimon/

Not a Dr Who adversary but the giant pizza over at L’Inkontro

L’Inkontro There are plenty of places for a good lunch in Verbier but this strikingly contemporary spot on the Les Attelas slope opened to a fanfare just before Christmas 2023. An old mountain hut is joined to a giant, gleaming metallic version. Cool, modern décor and Italian/Mediterranean dishes. Fabulous pizza but so much more, and views even bigger than the pizza oven. https://inkontro.ch/en

Le Carrefour The other end of the on-mountain spectrum, one of Verbier’s oldest, stone walls and a fabulous terrace. It’s difficult not to be tempted by the array of rosti (one with venison) and don’t plan to get up in a hurry after L’Avalanche, a pot of molten cheese with dried meat, ham and potatoes. https://en.lecarrefour.ch/carte-restaurant-verbier

Where to stay

A room at the Papill’on with its valley views

Boutique Hôtel Le Papill’on A smartly hip restaurant several minutes from the La Tzoumaz gondola which at the end of 2023 grew into an Alpine chic hotel. Run by Pico, an experienced local chef, and wife Anna, there’s a friendly bar while the Bistro Alpin offers dishes such as tarte flambée with truffled mushrooms, shallots and rucola or snails with absinthe and herb butter along with fondues, raclette, steak and burgers. Anna runs front of house – she’s from Madeira, so Portuguese custard tarts on the breakfast buffet. Double room for two, B&B, from £975 for seven nights. CHECK AVAILABILITY 

Pico and raclette at Papillon’s Bistro Alpin

T-Resort An apartment resort across from the La Tzoumaz gondola, wooden chalet style outside, contemporary wooden 3-star accommodation inside. https://t-resort.ch/en

Fact file

Swiss (https://www.swiss.com/gb/en/homepage) has regular flights from Gatwick to Geneva, return from £90. A return train from Geneva to Riddes (https://www.sbb.ch/en) starts at CHF65 (£59). More information: Verbier Tourism (www.verbier.ch)

A resort with the friendliest of neighbours

The post How to enjoy a calm ski break in Switzerland, at a cost that keeps you cool appeared first on The Travel Magazine.

La Tzoumaz ski resort is in a small, quiet village and the contrast to Verbier’s electric, non-stop party town is stark. Unlike Verbier, the hotels in La Tzoumas are understated, with unhurried restaurants and quiet bars. And it’s much cheaper too.

La Tzoumaz is also great for families, with a swimming pool beneath the gondola terminal, a free outdoor ice rink (with boules and ice hockey (gear available from the nearby tourist office) and occasional ice discos, 700m toboggan run. It even has its own excellent, friendly ski school, Tzoum ‘Evasion.

Boutique Hotel Papill’on sets the tone for laid-back life in La Tzoumaz

Below La Tzoumaz, the mountain drops away to the Rhone Valley where the town of Riddes is on the rail line that, via a change in Martigny, will get you to Geneva airport in two hours.

It’s a 25-minute taxi ride from the station or a shuttle bus to the Riddes cable car (not on your lift pass), a six-minute ride up to the village of Isérables, and then a post bus to La Tzoumaz.

For the 2024-25 season a post bus is promised direct from the station to the resort. Then, within five years or so, a lift will run all the way from outside the station to La Tzoumaz.

The skiing

From La Tzoumaz there’s a world of wide-open slopes with Verbier just over the ridge

To get to Verbier, the Tzoumaz gondola heads straight from the centre of La Tzoumaz up to a 2,344m ridgeline. Scoot down the other side and a two-minute minibus shuttle gets you to the Mayentzet chair, parallel to Verbier’s main Medran gondola. The shuttle then connects with the Savoleyres gondola to take you home. From the 2025-26 season a new chair creates a full lift connection into the 4 Vallées, the biggest ski area in Switzerland.

But Verbier isn’t the only option. La Tzoumaz has its own skiing, the Savoleyres area, three chairs, and the gondola opening up decent runs, 13 of them, from a height of 2,354m, on north-facing slopes, so good snow cover. Lots of off-piste with skiing right down to the village. For good skiers, there’s the Vallon d’Arbi back-country descent to the village from the Savoleyres ridge.

Why do it

The skiing here is high-altitude, so planty of snow

Verbier’s skiing is some of the best in the world, some 410km of runs and freeride routes (that’s signposted off-piste) with a highpoint of Mont-Fort, sitting at 3,300m and slopes open from November to late April. It’s a breathtaking ski all the way down to Verbier itself, at 1,500m, but there are also villages (Veysonnaz, Nendaz) to head off to and lots of places to explore. The town is a colourful, lively destination but sometimes you fancy something a little quieter. La Tzoumaz is a real village with an easy ski-over connection to Verbier.

It’s also cheaper to stay here if you fancy getting away from the crowds. It’s also going to be a big player in the next few years with an even better Verbier connection, and direct lift access from the main line train station. Very much part of Verbier and not a low, distant outpost as one can find elsewhere.

The La Tzoumaz gondola heads straight up from the village centre

Where to eat and drink

The flaming good special at Les Trappeurs

Les Trappeurs Cosy, traditional spot in the middle of La Tzoumaz serving classic Swiss dishes, and that means plenty of cheese, although the speciality is Potence de boeuf –grilled chunks of beef (or bison) hanging on a ‘gallows’, doused in alcohol and set aflame. https://www.latzoumaz.ch/winter/offers/restaurant-les-trappeurs-la-tzoumaz-riddes-en-winter-2966181/

L’Auberge On La Tzoumaz main street, daylight views over the valley. Chef Christian is a former butcher and it shows, the cosy, timbered room full of a laid-back crowd raiding the menu of pork, beef, even cheval, along with rustic pate and meat fondue, but there’s also trout from the pond. Two pretty rooms for overnight stays. https://aubergelatzoumaz.com/en/

Le Central Pleasingly woody bar and coffee house across the road from the gondola. Opened autumn 2023, there are local beers (Tzoumaz Blanche), ethical coffee and local meat and cheese. Bar stools, sofas and a sizeable terrace with outdoor bar and valley panorama. https://www.central-latzoumaz.ch

Chez Simon Warm, traditional place, all stone and timber, on the La Tzoumaz slopes, at the top of the Savoleyres Nord chair. Lovely terrace with fabulous views from the 2,076m perch, hearty lunches and open Wednesday evenings for torchlit descents. Several rooms for overnight stays. https://laurenti.ch/chezsimon/

Not a Dr Who adversary but the giant pizza over at L’Inkontro

L’Inkontro There are plenty of places for a good lunch in Verbier but this strikingly contemporary spot on the Les Attelas slope opened to a fanfare just before Christmas 2023. An old mountain hut is joined to a giant, gleaming metallic version. Cool, modern décor and Italian/Mediterranean dishes. Fabulous pizza but so much more, and views even bigger than the pizza oven. https://inkontro.ch/en

Le Carrefour The other end of the on-mountain spectrum, one of Verbier’s oldest, stone walls and a fabulous terrace. It’s difficult not to be tempted by the array of rosti (one with venison) and don’t plan to get up in a hurry after L’Avalanche, a pot of molten cheese with dried meat, ham and potatoes. https://en.lecarrefour.ch/carte-restaurant-verbier

Where to stay

A room at the Papill’on with its valley views

Boutique Hôtel Le Papill’on A smartly hip restaurant several minutes from the La Tzoumaz gondola which at the end of 2023 grew into an Alpine chic hotel. Run by Pico, an experienced local chef, and wife Anna, there’s a friendly bar while the Bistro Alpin offers dishes such as tarte flambée with truffled mushrooms, shallots and rucola or snails with absinthe and herb butter along with fondues, raclette, steak and burgers. Anna runs front of house – she’s from Madeira, so Portuguese custard tarts on the breakfast buffet. Double room for two, B&B, from £975 for seven nights. CHECK AVAILABILITY 

Pico and raclette at Papillon’s Bistro Alpin

T-Resort An apartment resort across from the La Tzoumaz gondola, wooden chalet style outside, contemporary wooden 3-star accommodation inside. https://t-resort.ch/en

Fact file

Swiss (https://www.swiss.com/gb/en/homepage) has regular flights from Gatwick to Geneva, return from £90. A return train from Geneva to Riddes (https://www.sbb.ch/en) starts at CHF65 (£59). More information: Verbier Tourism (www.verbier.ch)

A resort with the friendliest of neighbours

The post How to enjoy a calm ski break in Verbier, at a cost that keeps you cool appeared first on The Travel Magazine.