Accomplished landscape photographers often use slow shutter speeds to capture dramatic images with a sense of motion. Unfortunately, some less-experienced shooters mistakenly consider this technique beyond the scope of their skills and equipment.
As you’ll see in the tutorial below from Park Cameras, a leading retailer in the UK, nothing could be further from the truth. In barely eight minutes you learn everything you need to know to get started today.
Gareth Evans is a good photographer and an ebullient instructor who says, “Long exposure is a great way to expand your landscape photography and add a creative flair to your photos.” He covers everything from what you’re going to need, necessary camera settings, and important techniques, to the best type of scenes for this task.
Evans explains long-exposure photography like this: “We’re going to let the shutter stay open for much longer than we normally would for taking a photo.” By that he means shutter speeds longer than a second, and typically much more. He notes that this style of shooting works great with all types of outdoor subjects and weather conditions throughout the year.
By following this approach two things happen: “a lot of light hits the sensor, and this smooths out any kind of motion.” With this in mind it’s obvious that the camera must be mounted atop a sturdy tripod to avoid camera shake. In fact, Evans recommends setting the camera’s self-timer to two seconds, to give it time to setting down after depressing the shutter button.
Evans explains a variety of straightforward techniques for getting the job done whenever there’s some form of movement within the frame. This can be anything from flowing water or clouds blowing across the sky, to people walking down the street or cars driving by.
This technique is easy to accomplish by following Evans tips, and you wont need any special gear. After a bit of practice you’ll be confident enough to use this method often.
There’s much more to see on the Park Cameras YouTube channel, so head over there after watching this video and see what they have to offer.
We’ve posted numerous tutorials in the past explaining why so many accomplished photographers prefer to shoot in Raw, or set their cameras to capture both a Raw file and a JPEG every time they press the shutter button.
Today’s episode from German landscape pro Christian Mohrle provides a unique twist on this topic that illustrates the freedom of editing in Raw. It will save you a lot of time by using just one file—instead of multiple images and merging them for a perfect exposure.
Mohrle’s original intent was to take the focus-staking approach, so he captured three shots of his scene; one underexposed, another with the exposure recommended by the camera, and a third that’s too bright But as he began working on his first shot, which was really dark, he realized he could achieve a well-balanced image with that one photo.
There’s a link to download Mohrle’s image in the description beneath the video, so you can follow along as he demonstrates the rehabilitation process. His goal is to turn the underexposed photo into a dramatic and vibrant sunrise shot, and you may be amazed at what he accomplishes by viewing the before/after photos.
Mohrle begins by making a few global adjustments in Lightroom’s basic panel to the overall shot, to make it as good as possible for what follows. He starts by changing the profile to Adobe Standard, which slightly opens the shadows. He then cranks up exposure in a way that doesn’t add objectionable noise. There are few other quick enhancements to create the moody look Mohrle desires.
Next Mohrle turns to Lightroom’s masking panel for selective enhancements to different portions of the scene. His first step involves a small radial gradient for further exposure adjustment to the sky, and an eye-catching glow just above the horizon.
Now the image is looking pretty good, and you’ll see how Mohrle makes it really pop with some simple color grading and sharpening. All that’s left to complete the spectacular transformation is a bit of cleanup in Photoshop.