Entrance to Angkor Thom, Siem Reap, Cambodia, 2020. 590nm infrared. Canon EOS R, Canon RF 24-105mm F4 L IS USM at 47mm. Exposure: 1/1600 sec., ƒ/7.1, ISO 400.

I fell in love with photography in 1974—or, more to the point, I became infatuated with working in the darkroom. My images were not anywhere near special, but I spent hours in a cloud of toxic fumes and vapors, watching the alchemy of images emerge from blank pieces of paper. I felt like a magician. Anyone who has worked in a darkroom knows that feeling well. But I abandoned my darkroom in the mid 1980s for color transparency film, the choice for a working magazine professional at that time. Now, like most of us, I use digital cameras and work in the “grayroom” (yes, my studio walls are painted 18 percent gray). I still feel as if I’m creating magic, only now it’s on a computer screen. “A little bit of saturation here, some burning and dodging there, a bit more contrast overall.”

From the start, I led a peripatetic life, working as a mountain and river-rafting guide in the U.S., which progressed to guiding treks and private expeditions to places like Nepal, Bhutan, China, central Asia—you name it. From there, I was propelled into the life of a full-time photographer. Travel and photography became my passion, one intertwined with the other. I have always chosen places that make me a bit uneasy, places that challenge me. I have the same philosophy for my photography—to grow as an artist, I can’t rely on a previous moment of inspiration. I want to work at the edge of my comfort level, at the moment between competence and risk.

Inherently, photography is much more difficult than it appears at first. As one delves further into the depths of creating new and evocative images, it is clear that what seemed deceptively simple to photograph was maddingly difficult to render in an image. With the advent of high-resolution digital cameras and sophisticated processing, there is not an “Everest” in creative photography. But it sure is fun climbing this photographic mountain.

Camel herder, Gobi Desert, Mongolia, 2019. 590nm infrared with blue/red channel swap. Canon EOS R, Canon RF 24-105mm F4 L IS USM at 105mm. Exposure: 1/800 sec., ƒ/7.,1 ISO 640.

I have been at home (like most of us) since last March, when my nomadic feet came to an abrupt halt. I uncovered my printer, brushed up on my Photoshop skills, and returned to my first artistic love: printing. More specifically, to make prints from my ongoing creative passion of experimenting with infrared light. I feel the same magic today as I did watching my images emerge in the darkroom trays, although now they come from a printer. For the past 15 years, I have received the creative challenge I crave from photographing the world in infrared light, and sometimes I get results that resonate deep within me.

Stepping Into Invisible Light

In my darkroom days, I wasn’t yet acquainted with black-and-white infrared negative film. My first infrared experience was in 1997 with Kodak Ektachrome Infrared (EIR) 200 transparency film. It had wacky colors and deep contrast and was uber sensitive to light. If I opened its canister without proper precautions, the film was ruined. But I used it through 2003 before going 100 percent digital in 2004. While I loved it, I could not find a commercial use for it. Travel magazines were just not interested in the kooky look of EIR in those years.

The iridescent world of the infrared spectrum has a longer wavelength than visible light and is just beyond the range that we humans can detect with our eyesight. A typical human eye responds to, or “sees,” wavelengths from about 380 nanometers (violet) to 740 nanometers (red). However, digital camera sensors have a wider frequency range and thus are sensitive to infrared light. Therefore, it is necessary to place a filter in front of the sensor, preventing intrusive infrared light from interfering with our color photographs.

Camel trader, Puskar Fair, Rajasthan, India, 2010. 720nm infrared. Canon EOS 5D, Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM at 24mm. Exposure: 1/60 sec., ƒ/7.1, ISO 800.

In 2007, I learned that it was possible to remove that filter and replace it with one that allowed only near-infrared light. There are numerous companies that can do this kind of conversion. I sent my old, big heavy clunker of a camera, a Canon EOS-1Ds, to LifePixel (lifepixel.com) with the instruction, “Make it so!”

I began photographing light I could not see falling on a subject that was readily visible—quick-decision photography with an unseen twist.

It wasn’t easy. First, I had to choose what infrared wavelength I wanted to cozy up to my sensor. The infrared spectrum is vast. For photographic purposes, it ranges from “Super Color” 590nm (the closest to visible light, so the most infiltrated with red) to black-and-white 830-900nm. For over a decade, I photographed mainly with a 720nm infrared filter over my sensor—not too much false color and not too close to traditional black-and-white. The result was a surreal image with a bit of color, usually shades of blues with occasional magenta, and tan-amber skies. Then I dabbled, first with a 665nm conversion that gave me more false color and now primarily with 590nm infrared light that incorporates even more vivid colors.

Infrared In Practice

Photographing infrared light demands different decisions from photographing with visible light. The sun is the primary source of near-infrared light; thus, the best infrared photographs tend to be created in direct sunlight or in bright, open shade.

Moai & horse, Ahu Tahai, Easter Island, Chile, 2018. 590nm infrared. Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Olympus M.Zuiko ED 12-40mm f2.8 PRO at 40mm (80mm equivalent). Exposure: 1/100 sec., ƒ/7.1 ISO 320.

Often people mistakenly think, “I can photograph all times of the day!” No, the same dynamic range issues with digital color exist with digital infrared. Plus, the subtlest shadows are enhanced and give up more detail. It’s also difficult to predict the colors that emerge from infrared photography, as colors are determined by the reflection and absorption of light, as well as by the difference in the temperature of an object and its environment. Skin tones are usually pale and unblemished. Eye color changes. Foliage appears white and lustrous. Sometimes you can see revealing details under certain fabrics, details that otherwise would go unseen in ordinary visible light.

Most photographers use infrared for images of landscapes, mainly because trees look so darn wonderful in glowing white. There isn’t a palm tree alive—or even almost dead—that doesn’t look spectacular in an infrared image. I, however, primarily photograph people, sometimes portraits but mostly serendipitous, found images. I crop, but ever so sparingly, and sometimes not at all, and I never change any content, not even an unwanted wire. None.

It is possible to avoid having a camera converted and to use a filter instead to block the visible light from your sensor (usually a Hoya R72 or Wratten 89B), but the filter is dark, losing approximately eight stops of light, so it becomes necessary to use a tripod for exposures that can last up to 30 seconds. I don’t often use a tripod, and my subjects are usually people and action. It is also very difficult to focus with these filters because the viewfinder becomes virtually opaque.

Trees and dunes, Deadvlei, Sossusvlei, Namibia, 2018. 590nm infrared. Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II, Olympus M.Zuiko ED 40-150mm f2.8 PRO at 62mm (124mm equivalent). Exposure: 1/100 sec., ƒ/10, ISO 200.

Focusing Infrared

Infrared light has a longer wavelength, coming into focus at a different point than visible light. Therefore, it is difficult to predict exactly where the focal point will be in an image using a DSLR camera since they are calibrated to focus on visible light. It’s possible to focus accurately in Live View using your camera’s LCD, but that is difficult to do in fast-moving situations. You can send in your lens with the camera and have it calibrated to one of the focal lengths. In other words, you can send in a 24-70mm lens and have it calibrated at 35mm; the rest of the focal lengths will be close (but not exact). I used to set my aperture to ƒ/8 and leave it there, sometimes bracketing the focus but mostly hoping and praying for the correct focus.

With mirrorless cameras, I am able to accurately set the focus at all apertures since they focus directly on the sensor. That also means I can see the infrared result through the viewfinder (which is not possible with a DSLR), and I can use the camera’s histogram. These are huge pluses for working with infrared light.

I have converted many cameras over the past 15 years. I rapidly moved through a series of Canon cameras, starting with the EOS-1Ds in 2007 to finally the EOS 5D Mark III. Most all were Standard 720nm conversions, but I did convert a 5D camera to Color Enhanced 665nm. In 2014, I began using the smaller, mirrorless Olympus OM-D cameras in both a 720nm and also 665nm. I briefly tried a Sony a7R II in 2016 with 720nm. It’s a great camera, but the lenses they had at that time had terrible hot spots with infrared light (not an issue now). So, the next year, I returned to Olympus, converting an OM-D EM-1 Mark II to a Super Color 590nm conversion.

Moai statues, Ahu Tahai, Easter Island, Chile, 2020. 590nm infrared. Canon EOS R, Canon RF 24-105mm F4 L IS USM at 24mm. Exposure: 1/500 sec., ƒ/7.1, ISO 200.

Since I am printing large-sized images, I decided that I wanted a larger sensor with more resolution, so as of 2019, I am now back to Canon cameras for infrared. I converted a Canon EOS R mirrorless to Full Spectrum, primarily using a 590nm filter. Full Spectrum conversions allow the camera sensor to see the entire range of wavelengths to which it is naturally sensitive; it is therefore necessary to put a filter on your lens to block out all the wavelengths you do not wish to record. It is convenient because I can work with many different nanometers, but it does require using filters on your lens, which is OK for mirrorless but not a DSLR, as you come back to the problem of having to view your subject through an opaque filter as I described above.

Lenses, Coatings & Color Balance

In addition to understanding how different cameras and sensors manage infrared light, the quality of your image also depends on the characteristics of the lens. Lens coatings are not designed for infrared light, so almost any lens will exhibit more flare and ghosting at infrared wavelengths compared to when they are used to capture visible light. Unique to IR photography is the phenomena of “hot spots” that can be mild or create a big white hole in your image, a result of internal reflections within the lens produced by the lens’ coatings.

Some types of coating are not transparent to infrared wavelengths, so it’s necessary to make a custom white balance for your converted IR camera. I usually use a white sheet of paper in direct sunlight. Some people like to use green foliage or a gray card. I say try all three. Unfortunately, most editing programs, Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, in particular, cannot read a custom profile for a RAW infrared image, as the temperature range is beyond these programs. Since the image on the back of your camera actually displays a JPEG of your RAW image with the custom white balance, it looks ideal there, but as soon as you bring it into Lightroom or another program, it pops to a wild magenta, orange or brown. I’ve found that a lot of people get flustered at this point and elect to solve the magenta problem by turning their IR images into black-and-white images. They then miss out on the subtle colors inherent in an infrared image.

Great one-horned rhinoceroses, Kaziranga National Park, Assam, India, 2010. 720nm infrared with blue/red channel swap. Canon EOS 5D, Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM at 235mm. Exposure: 1/800 sec., ƒ/8, ISO 1250.

It is possible to extend the temperature range beyond 2000 Kelvin by using Adobe DNG Profile Editor, a free program that creates a profile for your infrared camera usable in Lightroom or Photoshop. (The profile is installed in the software’s Profile Browser.) Black-and-White 850nm or Standard 720nm infrared images look very closely like what you see on the back of your camera or through a mirrorless camera’s EVF. However, the profiles become more problematic with the color-saturated conversions, such as Enhanced 665nm and Super Color 590nm. For these images, I often will use the proprietary RAW processing programs offered by the camera’s manufacturer, such as Canon’s Digital Photo Professional or the Olympus Workspace, as they can read the custom white balance correctly.

Knowing what might or might not work with IR and understanding your camera and lens are only part of the calculation. Processing and printing an infrared image require a deft understanding of your processing programs, particularly with the fiercer 590nm conversion. Making an image in infrared light is one-third knowing what and how to photograph within the frame and two-thirds having the processing expertise that comes only with practice. Sometimes an image is not truly revealed until post-processing.

Embracing The Unpredictable

There is a lot to learn starting out with infrared photography, but the fun factor more than makes up for the effort. I carry two cameras when I travel, one for visible light and the other for infrared photography. Yes, I’ve upped the ante and the challenge for myself. Sometimes in fast-moving situations, I have to choose which camera I’ll use quickly. So, that is the fun of IR: I still am not completely sure if it is going to work powerfully—or flop. I definitely have many more “misses” with my IR camera. It’s one of the reasons I love infrared; it is not 100 percent predictable.

• Infrared is full of unknowns and surprises. Prepare to be disappointed with most of your images. Sad, yet true.
• Try to use the best camera you can for Infrared; otherwise, the results might truly discourage you.
• If your converted camera is a DSLR, you may not be able to use some of your favorite lenses.
• Plan on discovering soft images, inaccurate focusing, flare issues and hotspots.
• Expect to pay more attention to exposure than you normally do with RAW images.
• Schedule spending more time at the computer. Infrared images demand more post-processing.
• Prepare to be inspired by the unknown and unexpected.

Suru Valley prayer flags, Ladakh, India, 2016. 665nm infrared. Sony a7R II,
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 24-70 mm F4 ZA OSS at 24mm. Exposure: 1/25 sec., ƒ/18, ISO 100, with flash.

Whether you choose to photograph in black-and-white infrared, the more intense and colorful 590nm or one of the many other options, the world of infrared opens up a portal into a new way of seeing. The resulting photographs are truly images in a different light. What is invisible becomes art, revealed. 

Learn more on the subject by taking one of Nevada Wier’s Introduction to Infrared seminars. For information, visit nevadawier.com.

The post Revealing The Invisible appeared first on Outdoor Photographer.

Because there’s nothing worse than an odour that you simply just can’t get rid of, why not try these best air fresheners out for size to impress your guests and freshen up your rooms? We’ve found everything from an air freshener for your bins to several eco-friendly options, plus we’ve listed all types of air fresheners from sprays to plug-ins, powders, bags and even solid options. In short: there are plenty of air fresheners that have our seal of approval.

Find an air freshener that you’ll love and you’ll never want to switch things up again. Why is this so important? Because scent is among one of the first things that guests notice when entering your home. And let’s face it: if you have children or pets, it’s probably not the most pleasant scent, 99% of the time. With a little help from an air freshener and some of the best home fragrance buys out there, though, your guests will be commenting on it in no time. You’ll even notice it, too.

See our top air freshener suggestions below, to keep your rooms smelling lovely – and free from odours. Whether you enjoy cooking smelly things or your pet enjoys getting wet and muddy in the park, just be sure to open a few windows before going to town with them…

The best air fresheners to buy for your home

1. Puressentiel Purifying Air Spray

The best air freshener that you can buy

Image credit: Puressentiel

We rate the Puressentiel Purifying Air Spray as the best air freshener for your home, simply because it can remove smells and odours from the air within seconds. Though admittedly pricey, this air freshener will last you a good while – you needn’t use a lot for it to do the job. You can use this air freshener anywhere in your home, although beware that it’s pretty strong. So, we suggest opening windows and doors when spraying, and you’ll want to use it sparingly. They say you need one spray in each corner of the room, but we think that in most cases, just one spray inside a room should do the trick. You can also spray this on carpets, bedding and furniture for a refresh, should they be tainted by cooking smells, pets or even smoke.

Thanks to 41 different purifying essential oils in the ingredients – including Tea Tree, Lemon, Geranium and Lavender – this spray will leave your home smelling very fresh and clean. It comes in your choice of a 75ml bottle (great for initial trying) or a 200ml bottle.

2. Dettol All-in-One Spray

The best air freshener for disinfecting your home

Image credit: Dettol

This air freshener has been approved by Mrs Hinch (and by us). Not only can it make your home smell nice, but it’s proven to kill 99.9% of bacteria and viruses, too. It’s safe to use pretty much anywhere in your home, just be sure to, if you have pets, spray when they are out of the room, and wait for it to dry to let them back in. Other than that, you can use it in your kitchen, bathroom, living room, on upholstery, furniture, mattresses – it’s versatile. Simply just shake, spray and wait as there’s no need to wipe.

Obviously, since we’ve listed this as our best air freshener, it needs to make the air in your home smell fresh – and by fresh, we mean lovely. There are three scents to choose from, including Crisp Linen, Lemon Breeze and Orchard Blossom. Choose based on your preferences, but we recommend the subtle Crisp Linen.

3. Airwick Essential Mist Kit Balancing Peony & Jasmine

The best diffuser air freshener

Image credit: Airwick

Scent your home all day long with help from this undeniably handy buy from Botanica by Air Wick. Buy the device once and you can switch up the fragrance as you like. It’s mess-free, portable and best of all: eco-friendly. This diffuser works to turn essential oils into a fine mist, to scent the air inside of your home. Its compact design means that you can place it anywhere, from on display on a bathroom shelf to hidden at the back of your bookcase inside your living room. It works on one of three intensity settings, depending on your room size – and how powerful you like your fragrance.

This scent, Balancing Peony & Jasmine, is sweet yet subtle. With this pack, you’ll get one diffuser, a refill plus three batteries. Once finished, you need only buy refills as the machine will last for months or even years. You can switch up your scent between several options including a warm Apple & Cinnamon scent, or a refreshing Lavender fragrance.

3. Poo Pourri Wild Poppy Berry

The best air freshener for your toilet

Image credit: Poo Pourri

This small, so easy to store (or hide) bathroom spray certainly does the trick. Wave goodbye to misty bathroom air fresheners that make your tiles and your shower screen look dirty, and hello to this one that you only need to spray once, inside your toilet bowl, to make a difference. This small 59ml bottle is enough for 100 uses, which is impressive in itself. Essentially, you spray this air freshener down the toilet before you go – and ta-dah!

There are a range of aptly named smells to choose from including Royal Flush, Lavender Vanilla, Wild Poppy Berry, Citrus, Tropical Hibiscus, Déjà Poo, Vanilla Mint, No.2 and Ship Happens. All PooPourri sprays are made using no harsh chemicals, parabens, phthalates, or formaldehyde.

4. Botanica by Air Wick Air Freshener Electrical Plug-In Diffuser Kit

The best plug-in air freshener

Image credit: Botanica by Air Wick

Searching for an easy way to scent your hallway? Look no further than a plug-in air freshener. It requires zero effort from you, besides plugging it in and refilling every now and then, and it’ll make your home smell nice just as your guests enter or as you move around. Plus, scent is released close to the floor so that it rises. This kit comes with the plug itself as well as one refill, and in terms of design, it’s surprisingly elegant so will hopefully blend into your home. You can adjust its intensity to suit your room size using the dial, but realistically, a refill will last around 100 days – impressive.

As for the scents available, there’s Fresh Pineapple & Tunisian Rosemary, Island Rose & African Geranium, Moroccan Mint & Pink Grapefruit, French Lavender & Honey Blossom and Caribbean Vetiver & Sandalwood. Best of all? The ingredients in these air fresheners have been responsibly sourced. They are also infused with essential oils, and they are free from phthalates, acetone and dyes. What’s more, Botanica by Air Wick has collaborated with WWF to restore 1 sq. ft of UK wildflower habitats with each Botanica pack purchase.

Buy now: Botanica by Air Wick Air Freshener Electrical Plug-In Diffuser Kit

5. Bin Buddy Fresh Citrus Zing

The best air freshener for your bins

Image credit: Bin Buddy

Is there anything worse than a smelly bin? We think not. Use this air freshener powder to absorb odours, soak up bin liquid and also repel flies and insects. Use it on your inside or outside bins (or both!) and rest assured it will also leave behind a lovely scent. Each pot has enough powder inside for around 30 uses.

Available in a range of scents from Fresh Citrus Zing to Fresh Spring Blossom, Fresh Berry Blast, Fresh Pink Grapefruit and even Festive Orange and Cinnamon, switch up your fragrance with the season for a lovely smelling kitchen.

6. Botanica by Air Wick Room Spray Fresh Pineapple and Tunisian Rosemary

The best scented air freshener

Image credit: Botanica by Air Wick

If you want a scented air freshener, to banish odours and leave behind an enjoyable scent, then this is our top pick. Similar to the above plug-ins, this room spray is infused with essential oils. Although with total control, you can use it if and when you please, and as much of it as you like. Its packaging is made from 99 per cent recycled plastic, and the trigger is made with 35 per cent recycled plastic. It’s also a spray and not an aerosol, making it a much better option for the environment. A few sprays is enough to make your home smell lovely and remove any odours.

You can find this room spray in a range of scents, including Fresh Pineapple & Tunisian Rosemary, Island Rose & African Geranium, Moroccan Mint & Pink Grapefruit, French Lavender & Honey Blossom and Caribbean Vetiver & Sandalwood. As with other Botanica by Air Wick products, these room sprays are free from dyes, propellant, phthalates and acetone. Botanica by Air Wick has also collaborated with WWF to help restore UK wildflower habitats with every purchase of a pack.

7. Yankee Candle Fluffy Towels Fragrance Sphere

The best air freshener for bedrooms

Image credit: Yankee Candle

Your bedroom air freshener is an important one because this is the place in which you sleep for eight or so hours every night, breathing and creating smells (sorry, but it’s true). You might not be too keen on using a spray air freshener in your bedroom, as you might not want it to touch your bedding, so we’d recommend a fragrance sphere. This one from Yankee Candle smells like fluffy towels, so it shouldn’t be too obtrusive. It’ll basically make your bedroom smell like clean washing all of the time. What’s not to love?

Essentially, you remove the seal under the lid and pop it anywhere in your bedroom whether that’s on show on a side or on top of a wardrobe. Over time, (30 days, to be exact) fragrance will be released into your bedroom, without you doing a thing. As the fragrance is released, the beads inside this pot will shrink. After all of the beads have disappeared, it’s time to buy a new one. Simple!

This Yankee Candle fragrance sphere is 170g and it should last in your home for 30 days. It also comes in 12 classic Yankee candle scents, from Clean Cotton to Pink Sands.

8. CLEVAST Bamboo Charcoal Air Purifying Bags

The best air freshener for the kids’ bedroom

Image credit: CLEVAST

If you are searching for an eco-friendly air freshener, then these charcoal bags are it. They can be used anywhere in your home, not just in a kids’ room or nursery, but you can even pop them in a car, wardrobe, fridge or inside a shoe cupboard. Filled with natural bamboo charcoal to remove odours while freshening the air you breathe at the same time, they can even absorb moisture, too. The reason we suggest them for the kids’ room? You can place them well out of the way of inquisitive hands, and they are fragrance-free. They have a metal hanging hole to place them up high. Every month or so, you’ll need to take these bags outside and lay them in the sun for a few hours – to release the odours they have collected and make them work like brand new.

Due to their nature, these bags are eco-friendly while their bamboo charcoal filling makes them chemical-free, and of course, fragrance-free. These air purifying bags come in a pack of four and each one can be reused for two years. Just be sure to write the date on the front that you started using them, so you know when they need to be thrown away and repurchased. You’ll want to use two bags in larger spaces.

What type of air freshener should I choose?

If you are wondering which type of air freshener you should choose, then we think this is dependant on how much time you have, the size of your home and also where you will be using this new air freshener. These are the most common types of air freshener:

Choose a spray air freshener if you are looking for something with immediate effect. Perhaps for getting rid of cooking smells, making your living room smell lovely just before guests arrive, or to reduce the smell of your pet around your home. Spray air fresheners can be used in every room, with the obvious point of them needing you to action them to work, which leads us onto plug-in air fresheners.

Choose a plug-in option for a hallway or a kitchen, to constantly push out a lovely scent into your home. You needn’t do much with a plug-in air freshener, so these are great for use along with a spray.

Solid air fresheners are exactly what they sound like – they sit on your side and give off scent over time. These are subtle so they are not the best for removing smells from the air fast, but they can be great for use in a spare bedroom that’s not often used, to make it smell nice.

Charcoal bags are similar to solid air fresheners in the way they need to be placed somewhere away from pets and children, and they do their job over time. These are obviously a more natural option, though.

How often should I use an air freshener?

This is typically down to your preference and your house size. You’ll obviously want to use your new air freshener to rid your home of smells as and when they arise, but other than that, you may want to give your home a good spray once every few days. Again, this will depend on whether you have pets, children in nappies, and whether you smoke. Always open your windows before using an air freshener in your home.

The post Best air fresheners – 9 best buys for banishing home odours appeared first on Ideal Home.

If kitchens are the heart of the home, then the kitchen island is the heart’s centre. For this reason, finding the right space between counter and island can make or break how well your kitchen functions.

Many of our favourite kitchen layouts include islands, so unless you’re working with a galley or L-Shaped kitchen, there’s a good chance you may choose to integrate one. ‘A kitchen island transforms the kitchen into the social hub of the home,’ says Howard Miller of H. Miller Bros. ‘We see them as the modern day equivalent of the traditional farmhouse kitchen table where the family activity and kitchen work centred around one big table in the middle of the room.’

To make an island work how you want it to, then consideration of space between counter and island is of utmost importance. ‘Kitchens need to be as functional as they are beautiful and sacrificing floor space to fit an island will just give an awkward, uncomfortable look,’ notes Tom Howley, Design Director of Tom Howley Kitchens.

‘The final proportion of the island relates entirely to the relationship in which the space it’s designed it,’ adds Keith Myers, Designer at The Myers Touch. ‘The island will only proportionally work if it’s the right size for the space around it as you have consider walkways, cooking zones, pull out drawers and appliance doors.’

Considerations for the space between counter and island

Image credit: H. Miller Bros

When deciding how to plan a kitchen, especially in terms of choosing or designing the perfect kitchen island, it’s important to really think about how you use the space. This will tell you what shape and size of an island will be required.

‘When considering the amount of space between a counter and an island, you need to consider how would you like to cook and how an island might contribute to this,’ says Howard Miller. ‘Everyone is different; some people like to have a simple clutter free slab that they can use solely for food prep and like things to be clean and minimal when not in use. For others the island is the centre of cooking activity and also make great places for laying food out for parties.’

What is the ideal amount of space you should leave been a counter and an island?

Image credit: Tom Howley

First thing to consider is if you do, in fact, even have space for an island in your kitchen at all. ‘A fundamental consideration is the amount of space you have; in practice the room needs to be 4x4m minimum and an open plan area larger than this is better,’ advises Howard Miller. It may be more optimal for your space to consider other small kitchen ideas if you can’t guarantee this space.

The next most important aspect of choosing a kitchen island is, of course, the space between counter and island and the walkways around it. ‘The importance of walkway space should be a key consideration,’ says Tom Howley. ‘When designing your layout, always leave a metre of walkway space either one or two sides of your worktop, island, or peninsula counter. This is a functionally and aesthetically effective dimension to keep in mind.’

What is the minimum clearance around a kitchen island?

Image credit: Daval Furniture

The 1m dimension is a great rule of thumb and allows things to remain both practical and safe. If you can’t allow this, then it’s best to consider an island alternative, such as peninsula kitchens. It really is the minimum space between counter and island you need.

‘Interior design has always been subjective, especially in the kitchen,’ says Simon Bodsworth, Managing Director, Daval Furniture. ‘But when it comes to planning in a kitchen island there are a few considerations you need to make at the design phase. When it comes to minimum clearance between work areas then consider how many cooks will use the space, user safety, as well as ensuring a clear opening to accommodate the swing angle of cupboard doors and drawers.’

In fact, this 1m rule is often not even large enough. ‘The recommended distance for a single-cook kitchen should be no less than 1m,’ continues Simon. ‘But if your kitchen caters for an entire family then you’ll need to factor in more free space. An extra 20-30cm will increase ergonomics massively and ensure there is room to cook and manoeuvre around the island more easily.’ Make sure you take this into consideration especially if you’re working with small kitchen island ideas.

Keith Myers agrees. ‘We always allow a minimum distance between walkways of at least a metre, but generally speaking we prefer to allow 1.1- 1.4 metres. This provides extra comfort and functional access around an island when preparing and cooking food, as you have to consider cabinetry and appliances that often face onto an island. Ovens, dishwashers and fridges all need to be able to open fully to accommodate the end user’s overall usability.’

Can you leave too much space between an island and a counter?

Image credit: Harvey Jones

It’s easy to assume that the most space between counter and island, the better. However, that’s not actually the case. Leaving too much space can negatively impact how efficiently your kitchen works, as well as how it looks from a design angle. A blocky island will too much open space around it can look odd and out of proportion.

Matt Baker, Kitchen Designer at Harvey Jones believes you shouldn’t leave more than 1.2m between the island and the other surfaces. ‘Anything larger might not feel as safe and practical when preparing food, as you’ll be moving hot pans and trays from the island to the countertop and vice versa, depending on where your hob, oven and sink are positioned.’

That said, if your issue is an aesthetic one, there are things you can do to combat this.  ‘Some islands are becoming less blocky and bulky and more like large tables with legs, so the space between an island and a counter depends on the size and style of the island as well as the space of the room,’ says Howard Miller. ‘Sometimes the understory incorporates open storage so that they allow light and views through and around them. This all helps an island feel more delicate and elegant and the room less taken up by island.’

‘Sometimes islands can be too big – it starts to look a bit like a cookery school if it gets too long and this is especially the case in rooms with low ceiling height. Too wide and you can’t reach the middle to clean it.’

How much should a countertop overhang on an island?

Image credit: Harvey Jones

Something you may not have considered when integrating a kitchen island is how much the countertop should overhang. You may, of course, opt for a flush design, but an overhang has some serious benefits.

‘If you want to be able to create breakfast bar ideas and sit at the kitchen island, you will need around 30cm of worktop overhang,’ advises Matt Baker. ‘This will make sure you have enough knee space to sit on bar stools comfortably and then tuck the stools underneath the island.’

‘A worktop overhang is essential in the modern kitchen, protecting your cabinets against unwanted spills but when it comes down to size, then you need to consider both material and weight,’ agrees Simon Bodsworth. ‘If you want to incorporate a cantilevered worktop design that goes beyond 30cm, then you’ll need to introduce extra support like legs or metal brackets to share the load and meet safety requirements.’

Can kitchen islands have different countertops?

Image credit: Tom Howley

Just as how shape and size of an island you should opt for depends on your needs, so does your surface choice. ‘‘Think about your worktop,’ says Tom Howley. ‘If you are using yours for preparation, opt for a harder-wearing, more robust surface such as granite or Silestone. A worktop can impact the overall scheme of your kitchen, luckily with advancements in technology the choice of worktop materials is vast, for all budgets and styles of kitchen.’

But do island surfaces need to match? Absolutely not. You can mix and match surfaces compared to the rest of the kitchen, and even on the island itself. ‘As islands are bigger and more multifunctional than they used to be, we’re frequently using two materials on the island worktop,’ says Howard Miller. ‘This might be a kitchen prep space with a hard- wearing stone or a stainless steel, and then often a timber section that can be used as an occasional desk or somewhere to chat that has the warmth of a table or piece of furniture. ’

Heights may change, too. ‘We’re designing a lot of hybrid islands that bridge between different functions in an open plan space,’ adds Howard. ‘They might step down to table height or straddle a change in floor level so that one end is table height.’

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