This immense amphitheatre seating 14,000 people, was the highlight of my visit to Epidavros an ancient healing sanctuary dedicated to Asclepius, the Greek God of medicine. The city and theatre were once famous across the ancient world for advanced healing practices.
Ampitheatre-at-Epidavros reached on Oneida private chartered Lagoon 52 catamaran
It is a top tourist haunt over two hours away by road from Athens, but for me just a 10-minute hop from the tiny harbour where Oneida, my luxurious private chartered Lagoon 52 catamaran floated serenely, my crew busy preparing dinner onboard, ready for my return.
The very idea of a private yacht charter with your own captain and crew might suggest this form of cruising is firmly in the orbit of A lister Hollywood superstars and far beyond the budgetary means of mere mortals. Yet, this five-cabin catamaran with three crew including a captain and chef is a surprisingly affordable option compared to the cost of five cabins aboard an all-inclusive cruise liner for a week.
My shipmates and I joined Oneida at the bustling Athens Alimos Marina, home to most of the major private yachts in the eastern Mediterranean looking to cruise the Greek Islands. Captain Sotiris (So for short), chef Kostas and chief steward Penelope were waiting to greet us on board with a cool welcome prosecco and some tasty nibbles while our luggage was taken to our ensuite cabins, leaving us to relax out on the shaded dining area.
So far so perfect then. And I won’t deny a little frisson at the prospect of becoming part of the yachtie set. Even if it was just a temporary promotion.
In advance of our charter date, we’d listed any dietary or allergy issues and food and drinks preferences, (an essential part in making this a truly bespoke experience) so Chef Kostas was fully locked and loaded to weave some on-board culinary magic. All that was left for us to do before we set off was chat about our route with Captain So.
“There are some headwinds forecast over the next few days, so I suggest we explore some sheltered parts of the Saronic Gulf like Poros, Epidavros, Hydra, Agistri, and Aegina, then if we have time, perhaps Porto Cheli in the Peloponnese and some secluded beaches and coves. Does that sound OK with you?”
Well, this was a first. A skipper asking us to decide our route. Of course we agreed, and within minutes we cast off and were on our way.
As we made our way out to sea, I took the opportunity to have a look around. Oneida has plenty of deck space for sunbathing, across the bow or up top behind the wheelhouse, while the covered aft deck is the dining area and drop off point for all the water toys; snorkelling, standup and wake boarding and fishing – all included.
Plenty of sunbathing space on Oneida
There’s also a hitched rib tender with outboard for popping across to harbours when no docking slots are available, or perhaps visiting a remote beach. Inside, another comfy lounge is next to chef Kosta’s impossibly compact galley. A tiny space, yet the edible creations that emerged were magical culinary feasts.
Oneida Cabin
Perhaps the biggest compromise to a typical cruise liner experience is below deck. The five guest cabins are compact but have air conditioning, private ensuite facilities, double beds, fine linens, towels and luxury toiletries. However, there is limited wardrobe space. But let’s face it, this is a private charter with barefoot luxury, so the official dress code is t-shirts and shorts.
Following our Epidavros outing we were back onboard and in the hands of Penelope and Kostas for our first dinner out on the aft deck. Penelope’s very civilized G&T aperitifs were followed by a mighty family-style feast which Kostas proudly announced was “from my grandmother’s recipes”.
Fish Souvlaki
A starter of fresh cream cheese with beetroot from the Ionian Island of Lefkada, was followed by a fish version of traditional souvlaki: sea bass skewers and turmeric rice. With a choice of local and French wines, it wasn’t long before the approaching sunset was well and truly toasted. It was all topped off with home-made baklava. Magical and utterly delicious.
Kostas had certainly set an early high bar.
It wasn’t long before our life on board became a welcomely familiar routine. Some of our group joined Penelope for an early morning yoga class on the top deck before a freshly prepared breakfast (at a time to suit) always with a surprise or two from Kostas plus, of course, a few personal requests. Captain So stopped occasionally for some water fun in small bays, or when spotting sea life.
A lunchtime anchoring at Moni Island bay was particularly memorable. A beautiful uninhabited island with wild deer and friendly peacocks roaming around. The soft sandy beach and crystal-clear turquoise water was inviting and some of the group took stand-up boards over for a nap in the sun. I found it amusing when we were joined at anchor by other occasional yachts. Comparisons were drawn, prices were compared. Oh, how quick we became yachtie elitists!
We would sail on some more until we arrived at our overnight anchor, usually a small harbour where we could stroll around after dinner and take in the local sights and sounds and maybe a bar or two. Every meal on board was different (Kostas has an impressive culinary lineage), as were the sunsets. Each one a masterpiece from Nature’s colour palette.
Poros at sunset
One night we anchored at Poros, a perfect Greek island picture postcard. Narrow streets, whitewashed houses and steep stone steps up to an ancient clocktower with fantastic views. The harbour was lined with shops, bars and tavernas while fancy yachts and catamarans bobbed and weaved at the dock. We all regrouped later that night on the aft deck for a nightcap or three while Captain So regaled us with some salty sea stories of his many adventures, and even played a few tunes on his harmonica. Clearly a man of many talents.
Our last night was spent moored in Aegina, a popular island close to Athens. The harbour was full, but luckily the skipper made some calls and convinced the powers that be that he’d spotted a tight but makeable mooring space. He made it, aided by some local seafarers, with just a few inches to spare!
The island is famous for producing its own variety of pistachio called koilarati available in various forms from stalls and shops around the harbour. That night Captain So joined us for dinner, and Kostas pulled out all the stops again. Plenty of traditional Greek toasts were undertaken with some fine local ouzo, after which the skipper revealed his obsession for board games. One of his favourites was brought to the table and we all played late into the night.
When we finally returned to Alimos Marina it was an emotional farewell. Our crew had been exceptional. A well-drilled trio. And the way they quicky adapted to our individual needs and habits made the cruise delightfully personal. Shall we leave now or wait a bit longer. Shall we go here, or there next. And that is the real difference.
Verdict:Helm provided an entirely bespoke experience from start to finish. Having tasted the yachtie highlife with a private charter and been thoroughly spoilt, I don’t think I can see any other type of cruise through the same lens ever again.
Helm offers crewed and skippered yacht charters globally, with specialist areas including Croatia, Greece, Italy, Turkey, Thailand, and the Caribbean.
The all-in cost including a five-cabin catamaran, crew, all food and drink and VAT similar to Andy’s charter, would be around €25k (£21k) for a week. That equates to £4,200 per couple.
Check example breakdown of the costs of a crewed yacht.
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