A few months ago on Photography Life, I wrote about my experiences photographing a sheet of crystalline ice structures on the frozen surface of a pond. Not long after writing that article, a rare sunny day with a bright blue sky sent me out to the pond again.
One big challenge for all of us who shoot landscapes is creating order out of expansive, chaotic scenes, and that’s why good composition skills are so important for this genre of photography. And one of the first framing techniques we all learn from the get-go is the familiar Rule of Thirds.
While this compositional technique may be great for those just starting out, there are other ways to set up a shot that often deliver interesting images that can be far more compelling—as you’ll see in this eye-opening tutorial from one of our favorite landscape photographers.
Mads Peter Iversen is a Dutch pro who regularly shares the secrets to his outstanding imagery. He kicks of today’s video with a statement that’s about as blunt as can be: “Stop using the Rules of Thirds.” He insists that you can elevate your photographic skills by going beyond this simplistic technique.
Iversen explains his aversion to the Rule of Thirds, including why this approach can easily “throw a photo out of balance.” He then demonstrates several framing methods he greatly prefers, one of which he refers to as the “Tool of Space.” Like his other suggestions, this one is easy to employ if you’re willing to look at things in a different way.
There are a few simple concepts to understand when taking this approach. One of the most important is this: If the scene includes a person, animal (or even inanimate objects like a boat), it’s imperative that the front of the subject points inward toward the center of the frame rather than outward toward one of the edges of the image. Otherwise, “it just looks weird.”
There’s another technique that is very effective when the opportunity arises. This one involves concentrating on repeating patterns when composing an image. Iversen explains why this method is so effective: “Generally we human beings can’t avoid seeing obvious patterns when we’re out in nature because we all love order.”
Thus, accentuating these patterns within the frame goes a long way to raising the esthetics of an image. In one of his examples he positions the roof of a small, colorful structure so that it mirrors the shape of the mountain in the background. The other photos you’ll see employ patterns in different and very effective ways.
These are just two of the seven techniques that Iversen demonstrates in this 13-minute episode, and they all have the power to significantly boost the impact of an image. So try a few of these compositional suggestions the next time you’re out in the field, and we think you’ll be very impressed with the results you achieve.
Iversen’s instructional YouTube channel contains a wealth of information for everyone who shoots in the great outdoors. So be sure to pay a visit and put his professional advice to work.
Most experienced photographers turn up their noses at the Program exposure mode, preferring to shoot in Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, or Manual. But as you’ll see in this quick video from the Great Big Photography World channel, there are situations under which this “beginner” mode makes total sense—even if you have advanced skills.
Inexperienced shooters often choose Program because this setting transfers most exposure decisions to the camera, thereby enabling them to concentrate on other key considerations like composition. There is a bit of flexibility in this basic mode, because you’re still able to set ISO yourself, thereby maintaining a modicum of control, even if other exposure settings are calculated automatically.
Today’s unnamed instructor explains several reasons when Program mode makes sense, even for shooters who think, “I know what I’m doing.” So set aside your skepticism for just three minutes and you just may be convinced to give this convenient approach a try..
One example works well for outdoor photography when the light is changing rapidly, like on days when small clouds are flowing across the sky and the sun is momentarily blocked before popping out into the open. Under conditions like this letting the camera set aperture and shutter speed is particularly helpful so you don’t have to repeatedly change settings as the light changes.
When shooting in Program you’ll want to pay close attention to the shutter speed chosen, especially on windy days with subject movement so that your images are sharp. This is one reason that the ability to manipulate ISO can come to the rescue. Some cameras even have a Program Shift feature that enables you quickly override the camera if need be—simply by rotating a Command dial.
Program mode can also be beneficial when capturing candid environmental portraits or wildlife photographs when subjects move in and out of shade, and you’re unsure if you can react fast enough to get the light exactly right.
The bottom line is this: We’re not trying to change your mind if you’re comfortable shooting in Manual or one of the semi-automatic exposure modes. Rather, we just don’t want you to ignore your camera’s Program setting on those occasions when it will help you nail a fleeting moment.
The Great Big Photography World YouTube channel is full of straightforward shooting and editing lessons like this one. So be sure to take a look and explore what’s available.
And if you’re interested in learning another unconventional technique, check out the recent tutorial we featured that explains why and how you should experiment with telephoto landscape photography instead of always reaching for a wide-angle lens.
Adobe recently upgraded Photoshop’s Gradient capabilities with new versatile options, but this seven-minute tutorial isn’t a deep dive into everything these tools can do. Rather, we’re taking a targeted look at what one pro says are the “three best ways” to employ Photoshop’s updated Gradients.
If you already employ Gradients in your Photoshop workflow, well, all the better. But that’s not necessary for today’s lesson, in which you’ll learn everything necessary for taking advantage of this trio of awesome new techniques. And you don’t have to be a power user to create some really cool effects.
Instructor Brendan Williams has a popular, instructional YouTube channel with the simple goal of helping amateur photographer “level up their skills in less time.” And that’s exactly what he does in the seven-minute video below.
There’s a new Gradient mode within the Gradient tool, and at top of today’s list is a quick demonstration of how to use Gradients to create a variety of awe-inspiring lighting effects. Williams illustrates how it’s done using a performance photo captured in a dark venue where the lighting was less than impressive.
He selects the Gradient tool by tapping the letter “G” and goes up to the Options bar to make sure the Gradient mode is active. Then he navigates to the Gradient Preview and chooses the foreground-to-transparent Gradient within the Basics folder. Next he selects a Radial Gradient (that can be revised later if necessary) and walks you through the rest of the process for transforming the image with some really special lighting.
Williams explains technique #2 like this: “Let’s say I want to have an image fade to transparency from the top of the image for a graphic-design project.” He makes this process really easy for the portrait in his example by using a Layer mask and a foreground-to-transparent Gradient.
It’s important to have the Gradient tool selected and the Gradient mode enabled, before proceeding further with the simple steps he provides, along with the recommended settings for various attributes.
Williams concludes the video with his third and final tip, which uses Gradients for color grading a very interesting landscape image with a solitary person silhouetted in the wet foreground of the scene. His original photograph looks pretty great as it is but watch what happens when he applies a bit of Gradient wizardry. Like WOW!