Our Nikon Z 400mm f/4.5 VR S review is fully updated! We’ve added complete lab tests, including sharpness, vignetting, and chromatic aberration (tested with and without Nikon’s 1.4x and 2.0x teleconverters). Likewise, a full comparison with other supertelephotos has been added to the review. Enjoy!
We’re all looking for a creative edge when editing outdoor photos captured in difficult light. One goal is to create images with maximum impact, and the other is to accomplish that task in way that makes our imagery stand out from the crowd.
This tutorial from the PHLOG Photography YouTube channel demonstrates how to get it all done by unlocking the power of Lightroom’s frequently ignored Linear Profiles. Once you understand how these simple tools work your landscape images will be forever changed for the better.
So what’s so special about Linear Profiles, and why should you add them to your workflow. Well, according to instructor Christian Mohrle, “they are the secret for full control over your photos.” And it takes him barely 13 minutes to bring you up to speed.
Mohrle pulls up a Raw file that you can download with a link beneath the video so you can experiment with the options and adjustments as they’re explained. The first graphic you’ll see is a side-by-side comparison of two versions of his photo: one with the Adobe Standard Profile and the other with a Linear Profile.
It’s immediately apparent that the image on the right is devoid of blown-out highlights, has brighter shadows, and a bit less distracting contrast. So what’s going on? Mohrle explains that “the minute we open up a Raw file in Lightroom a profile is applied. By default, it’s Adobe Color” (whether or not that’s the best choice for the image in question).
As it turns out, however, there are many other Profiles available, and it’s up to you to select one that will deliver optimum results for the photo you’re working on. Mohrle puts it like this: “I love using Adobe Standard for a little more control over Contrast, Adobe Landscape for enhanced base Saturation, and Adobe Neutral for the most neutral version of the Raw file.
The key is that all of these different attributes are automatically applied before the actual editing process begins. Thus, the particular Profile you select determines the look of your base image and may also affect the tools you use and the adjustments you make as post processing continues.
With these explanations out of the way, Mohrle devotes the remainder of the lesson to demonstrating what all this means in practical terms. He first makes a few global adjustments to the chosen image, and then he proceeds with selective enhancements to various portions of the scene.
Mohrle employs the Tone Curve, simple masking and color grading, and careful sharpening to complete the impressive transformation. Here’s the takeaway: Don’t settle for Adobe’s default Profile unless it’s the best choice for the task at hand. There’s far more to learn about editing landscape images on Mohrle’s instructional YouTube channel, so be sure to take a look and explore what he has to offer.
We’re always a bit wary about so-called editing hacks, tips, and tricks that promise great results, especially when they’re of the 10-second variety. But the quick Lightroom technique you’ll today really pays off on the promise to easily transform any landscape photo in a hurry.
Instructor Roy van der Wens is a versatile Dutch pro with a unique style of shooting and editing landscapes, weddings, and a variety of other genres. In this six-minute episode he promises “to show you how to make professional-quality landscape photos that Pop off the screen” with an almost instantaneous editing hack.
The secret to this magic is Lightroom’s Calibration tool. And truth be told, this isn’t what we’d consider a hack, because this method is part of Lightroom’s vast array of capabilities. Regardless of what you call it, it’s well-worth learning how it’s done because the proof is evident in Roy’s impressive results.
Roy like to underexpose his photos for reason he explains, and he typically uses Lightroom’s Tone Curve to pinpoint the exposure. His goal for this video is to make things as simple as possible, and that’s where the powerful Calibration tool comes into play.
You’ll see how to locate the Calibration tool and move it higher in the panel if you decide to use it frequently. Once you’re there it’s a simple matter to move a few sliders to quickly achieve the specific look you want. Roy walks you through the quick process for transforming dull images into money shots.
For the image at hand he simply adjusts the Red, Green, and Blue Primary Hues, while significantly increasing Saturation in the new tones. He also explains the importance modifying White Balance accordingly so everything falls into place.
The foregoing takes mere seconds and BOOM, you’re done! Roy provides helpful keyboard shortcuts to further accelerate the process. We think you’ll be amazed by the super-fast transformation after viewing Roy’s before/after images.
Roy repeats the process with a few other images, that require different but equally fast adjustments to the sliders. By the time you’re done watching you’ll understand exactly how the hack works, and you’ll likely add this method to your Lightroom bag of tricks.
Most outdoor photographers understand that mid-day light is one of the worst times to shoot. That’s because at this time of day illumination tends to be harsh—thereby resulting in boring, unimpressive results. And this holds true whether you’re photographing landscapes, wildlife, and even environmental portraits.
It’s for this reason that experienced landscape photographers strive to shoot at Blue Hour as the sun is about to rise, or at Golden Hour when it slides below the horizon. This episode from landscape pro Christian Irmler is all about the former, revealing why waiting patiently for the pink stripe to appear will imbue your images with a very compelling effect.
Careful timing and solid preparation go along way with all sorts of photography, but it’s perhaps most important when capturing landscapes early and late in the day. This means awaking long before dawn is a big part of the equation. The ability to work quicky as the fleeting moment appears is also an important part of the game.
In today’s behind-scenes lesson you’ll watch Irmler on location in the dark preparing to capture the elusive pink glow when Blue Hour begins to unfold. What Irmler calls the pink stripe is a phenomenon Homer immortalized in The Odyssey with the phrase “rosy fingered dawn,” and it is indeed an impressive sight often observed at sunrise.
As Irmler trudges through the landscape in the dark, wearing a headlamp amidst 18° temperatures, he offers a few suggestions for predicting when Blue hour and hopefully the pink stripe will occur so you’re set up and ready to go. Pre-scouting a location during the day really helps because that way you can already have an effective composition in mind at the moment the event occurs.
Irmler shoots a few test exposures at the first hint of impending dawn, so that he’s prepared to quickly refine camera settings at when it’s time to snap the shutter. He also discusses the lenses he relies upon to get the job done, and several technical matters that will improve your odds of success.
You can look at a complete list of Irmler’s preferred equipment using a link beneath the video, where you’ll find another link to the weather maps mentioned in the video. So take a close look, pull out a headlamp and your cold-weather apparel, set the timer on your coffee pot and the alarm on your clock, and awake early enough to capture your best Blue Hour photos ever.
You can find more inspiring landscape photography lessons on Irmler’s instructional YouTube channel, so be sure to do that after you return home and warm up.