So here’s a common problem that may sound familiar: You come home from a day of shooting in the field, review your images on the computer, and feel really discouraged because you don’t know whether to toss the files in the trash, or where to beginning fixing them with the software of your choice.

But guess what? The photos you shot may not be as bad as you thought, and the real issue could be that your editing workflow is just far too complicated. That’s when it’s time to take a deep breath, and spend a few minutes streamlining your approach. The tips in the 14-minute tutorial will help you undertake this task and will simplify your workflow from now on.

Instructor William Patino explains a highly effective processing workflow for editing landscape photos in Lightroom or Photoshop that’s simple enough for everyone to use. Even experienced photographers will appreciate the degree to which Patino’s approach will save them considerable time and effort.

Patino says there are only a handful of tools he uses in his workflow and there’s no reason for anyone to complicate things further. The demonstration image is one that he says, “is about as difficult as it gets.” It’s a backlit landscape photo captured at sunrise—with blown-out areas in the sky and crushed shadows in the bottom half of the frame. And the colors are really drab.

One goal is to correct the exposure and open up details throughout the shot. Another is to accentuate the dull, muted colors in the image, and effectively lead the viewers eye through the shot from the foreground to the mountain peaks in the background. The first step is changing the color profile from Adobe Color to Adobe Landscape, which straightaway opens up the dark tones and adds much-needed vibrance to colors.

Patino next turns to the Basic tab (it doesn’t matter if you’re in Lightroom or Photoshop) and uses simple sliders to make several quick global adjustments to Temperature and Exposure—taking particular care to go easy when modifying Highlights and Shadows. Lastly he adjusts both Vibrance and Saturation.

With the basics out of the way, Patino demonstrates a straightforward approach to a few local adjustments for further enhancing the sky and other problems areas in the frame. As he says, “this is where you’ll make up a lot of ground” without unnecessarily complicated enhancements.

At this point you’re only partway through the lesson and the last 10 minutes are equally important and effective, so be sure to watch until the end. Then head over to Patino’s instructional YouTube channel where there’s much more to learn.

You’ll also want to check out the tutorial we posted recently in which another pro says discusses three “essential plugins” every landscape photographer needs for editing in Lightroom or Photoshop.

When all else fails and there’s “nothing to shoot” it’s time to do out and photograph the sunset. These warm, romantic scenes are favorites among photographers of all genres, and this tutorial from the B&C Camera YouTube channel reveals the best camera setting to use for achieving beautiful results.

Our instructor named Raph says, “I’ve never met a person who doesn’t love sunsets; however it can be tricky when choosing which camera settings to use.” He also notes that unless you’re an experienced pro you may encounter a few obstacles when properly configuring the camera.

In less than six minutes Raph explains the camera settings he prefers, noting that these should be used as a starting point for most situations before experimenting on your own. That’s because, depending upon the specific situation, “trial-and-error is the best way to get perfect pictures.”

In addition to helping you set up the camera, Raph also provides several shooting tips and tricks for increasing your odds of success. As a general rule he recommends shooting in manual mode. Raph typically begins at ISO 100, and then modifies this setting depending upon the position of the sun in the sky.

Raph recommends using a shutter speed of 1/30 or longer, and he starts with an aperture of f/16 that he then opens up as necessary for a correct exposure. When it comes to gear, he says a very wide-lens in the range of 18-24mm is typically the best choice for capturing these expansive scenes, and he recommends using manual focus for consistent results.

Contrary to what you may have, Raph suggests choosing the Daylight White Balance setting, and, of course, a sturdy tripod helps prevent camera when shooting at slow shutter speeds. Raph always shoots in Raw so he can make all the necessary adjustments during post processing to achieve an image that looks just what he saw through the viewfinder.

Raph make the following observation that’s important to understand: “As the sun drops lower in the sky, the foreground of a scene will pick up more shadows than you may like.” He goes into far greater detail than in our quick summary so be sure to watch until the end.

Along the way you’ll pick up some great compositional tips, learn when and how to use a bit of supplemental light, and see Raph’s straightforward method for shooting enchanting portraits as the sun is about to set. There are more helpful lessons to be found by paying a visit to the B&C Camera YouTube channel.

We also suggest watching a tutorial we posted earlier from another experienced pro who explains seven of his secrets for capturing stunning landscape photos.

Film photographers understand the power and challenges of using infrared film to capture images with a unique eye-popping look. While some modern digital cameras include an infrared emulation mode, this approach can deliver hit-or-miss results.

The good news is that it’s easy to use Lightroom Classic to mimic this look, as you’ll see in today’s tutorial from the popular PHLOG Photography YouTube channel. Infrared photos appear surreal and otherworldly, with unusual colors in the skies and bizarre-looking trees and other types of foliage.

Instructor Christian Mohrle is a notable German landscape photographer who we often enlist to explain interesting Photoshop and Lightroom techniques that are unfamiliar to many of our readers. In this episode he demonstrates how to recreate the infrared effect in barely eight minutes. The results you’ll achieve are very impressive and will definitely stand out from the crowd.

If you want to follow along and make the changes yourself, download the Raw file from the link beneath the video. Mohrle begins by expanding Lightroom’s Basic panel. Then he clicks on the  Profiles tab and selects Browse from the dropdown menu. This brings up a variety of categories, and the Artistic 3 option is the one you want.

Now your photo takes on an autumn appearance, but here’s the trick: You can push the Amount slider to the right until foliage appears just as though the image was shot on infrared film.

At this point the effect looks pretty good, but there are a few tweaks you can make to enhance the image even further. Mohrle demonstrates how to use simple sliders to adjust White Balance, Tint, Vibrance and Saturation. You can make the infrared effect as intense as you want, or dial it back, depending upon your preference.

Mohrle then leaves the Basic panel and opens Lightroom’s Color Mixer for precise adjustments to the tones. As you’ll see, these enhancements are also quickly achieved using a few simple sliders. He drops orange and yellow saturation, while pumping up the greens to further intensify the infrared look of the foliage.

He also employs the Luminance tab to directly accentuate the adjustments he just made. All that’s left to complete the transformation are some basic exposure adjustments and simple masking, and Mohrle walks you through the steps in just about a minute. You can find more great landscape tips on Mohrle’s YouTube channel.

And be sure to check out another tutorial we posted, with a unique Lightroom technique for creating a realistic tilt-shift effect.