The Hasselblad XCD 75mm f/3.4 P the newest prime lens for the Hasselblad X system, announced yesterday as part of their “Portable” series. Today, I wanted to offer my full review of the XCD 75mm f/3.4 P and show how it performs both in the field and in the lab!
There are plenty of bargains out there for older lenses that can be mounted directly on modern cameras, or by using an affordable adapter depending upon the specific brands. And not only are these vintage options cheap, but sometimes they outperform their modern counterparts in term of imaging characteristics and build quality.
But here’s where you can run into problems when purchasing a lens sight-unseen from an unknown seller on the Internet: Vintage lenses, especially those that have been stored incorrectly, occasionally have fungus on their internal elements that can easily degrade image quality.
There’s good news if you’ve been stuck with one of these lemons, as you’ll see in this tutorial from the DIY Extravaganza YouTube channel—a popular sources for camera repair tips, product comparisons and other do-it-yourself advice of interest to photographers.
This episode is all about a safe method for cleaning fungus from contaminated lenses that are otherwise reliable, instead of dealing with the hassle of returning them and searching for a replacement. Our unnamed Swiss instructor explains everything you need to know. He demonstrates how it works with an old AF Nikkor 35-70mm zoom, but the process is pretty much the same regardless of the lens in need of thoughtful TLC.
We’re not going to summarize the process in great detail because it’s really necessary to watch the 20-minute lesson to fully comprehend the straightforward procedure so no damage occurs. You’ll have to disassemble the lens to reach any internal fungus by first removing the “beauty ring that surrounds the element.
We’ll let the expert take it from there, as he further illustrates the teardown process, explains the cleaning materials to use, then cleans his bargain lens and put everything back together in tip-top shape. It’s actually a fun project, especially if you have very little invested in your patient.
There are links in in the description beneath the video to more advanced instructions—just in case you run into a problem with an unusual lens that’s difficult to take apart. Once you’re done, check out the DIY Extravaganza YouTube channel for more helpful DIY advice.
And speaking of restoration, be sure not to miss the tutorial we posted earlier in which another pro demonstrates how to return damaged photographs to their original splendor using Photoshop’s new and improved post-processing tools.
Lately we’ve been featuring a series of interesting tests you can easily do at home to verify the various attributes of cameras and lenses so that there are no surprises after you make a shot. The previous episode from photographer Fil Nenna explains a quick way to find the sharpest aperture setting of every lens you own, which may differ significantly from one lens to another.
Nenna is back again today with a simple test that enables you to determine the dynamic range of your camera’s sensor, rather than relying upon spec sheets and other materials. This is important information that hinges on two key questions: First, how forgiving is your camera to over- or underexposure; and secondly, how accurately will your camera cope with high-contrast situations.
According to Nenna there’s another benefit of this illuminating test for photographers who are on a mission to understand Ansel Adams’ Zone System analysis. In any case, your journey begins here and takes barely three minutes to complete.
Nenna places a closely knit fabric on a flat surface, explaining that “we’re interested in the detail we can resolve between a really dark and super bright exposure.” He keeps the ISO fixed but offers this important note: “Remember that dynamic range decreases as ISO is raised, so you should test at multiple ISOs or at least the ones you use most often.”
He also recommends stopping down the aperture to f/5.6. He runs through various shutter speeds beginning with the slowest that produces a white image with no detail whatsoever. Then he increases shutter speed in one-stop increments until you see a couple frames that appear completely black.
Interpreting the results of your test is really simple. Nenna explains that the dynamic range of a sensor is “the number of stops that show any detail at all.” This information enables you to understand how far you can push things, either up or down, before image quality goes sideways in a hurry.
Be sure to visit Nenna’s instructional YouTube channel where you’ll find more interesting insights about your gear, including the aforementioned method of determining the sharpest aperture setting of every lens you own.
So let’s say you mistakenly used incorrect camera settings and your “beautiful” photo is disappointing with a low-res, blurry, pixelated appearance. Before you slap yourself on the forehead and dump the shot in the trash, pay close attention to the eye-opening tutorial below.
Photographer Pejman’s YouTube channel is a great source of basic Photoshop techniques, advanced image manipulation methods, and in-depth portraiture retouching skills.
Today’s quick episode explains how to transform photos full of unsightly artifacts using easy-to-handle upscaling and image-restoration adjustments that take less than four minutes to explain.
Pejman uses a portrait photo to demonstrate the process, but the techniques you’ll learn will work equally well with other types of pixelated images that look as though they were captured with an old 3-megapxel camera. And here’s what’s so interesting: “We’re not adding anything new to the picture; we’re just making the pixels we already have look their best.”
The first step from Photoshop’s menu bar is choosing Edit, Preferences, and Technology Previews from the dropdown menus that appear. It’s important to check the box called Enable Preserve Details Upscale. Then press OK and you’re ready to proceed.
Next click on the Image tab from atop the menu bar and select the Image Size option, change Resolution to 300 pixels, and change Resample to Preserve Details. Then move the Radius Noise slider to a value of 30, and once again press OK.
Now zoom in on your photo and marvel at how much better it appears, but there’s still more work to do. The next step takes place in Photoshop’s Layers panel where you’ll activate a background layer by pressing Command or Control “J.” Then go to the Filter tab atop the screen and choose Other followed by High Pass from the ensuing dropdown windows.
Pejman says “the Radius setting here is completely dependent upon your image resolution, but I prefer a value of three for this photo.” He then explains why to temporarily choose black-and-white when zooming in on the shot for further refinements.
At this point you’re almost there, and Pejman walks you through the necessary steps which begin by changing by changing the Blending mode from Normal to Soft Light. Now you can adjust the strength of both Layers until you like what you see before finally merging them into one impressive shot.
There’s much more to learn about gear, post-processing, and capture techniques on Pejman’s instructional YouTube channel, so be sure to pay a visit when you have time to explore.
And don’t miss a recent tutorial we featured with another accomplished pro who demonstrates how to use Photoshop’s Blend If Sliders to transform dull images into spectacular photos that say “WOW.”