Today’s Photo Of The Day is “Presidential Range in Winter After Snowstorm” by John Welch. Location: New Hampshire.
“Fierce cold (-5 degrees air, -30 windchill) and winds on Mt. Pierce created a beautiful landscape of snowdrifts on the trail near the junction of the Crawford Path and Webster Cliff Trail (also part of the Appalachian Trail),” explains Welch. “It was special to break trail up Crawford Path to Mt. Pierce and see the delicate drifts on the trail with nice reflected morning light before anyone else had gotten there. Mt. Washington and the rest of the Presidential Range is in the distance.”
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Mother Nature bestows the human eye with spectacular beauty. As I drive along the Oregon coast, I can’t help but notice the crashing surf as it pounds against the sea stacks at sunset. I feast my eyes upon majestic mountain ranges of rugged splendor. I admire the rolling hills of prairie farmland and sandstone arches that decorate the Southwest. And these are but a few of the glorious features of her natural grandeur. While these incredible testaments to nature certainly amaze even a casual viewer, Mother Nature also works her magic on a much smaller scale. To the discerning eye, natural beauty appears everywhere. It just needs to be noticed. Look past the obvious and you’ll be surprised how many images you can create that are made of patterns, shapes and lines.
Become An Observer
While driving north on route 191 at 40 mph, the Grand Teton is magnificent. Unfortunately, this is the way too many visitors to the park see the range. But as photographers, we know better. We get there at sunrise, stay until sunset and photograph the majestic peaks in splendor-filled light. But how many of us stop to look north and south at the other amazing peaks? How many look down at their feet to see if something photogenic lurks near their toes? Many of us go in the fall to catch the aspens at their peak, but how many walk up to the trees to get a close-up view of the veining in the leaves or the subtle compositions of a group of them on the end of a branch? Think to yourself, “What else can I photograph?” and all of a sudden, many new compositions will unfold.
Shooting Patterns
A pattern is created when a repeated design or form continues on and becomes recurrent. Patterns in nature become more obvious when seen on smaller scales. One that immediately comes to mind is a dahlia in full bloom. A central bud is surrounded by concentric petals as they radiate out from the bud. Ferns are another great example. Patterns that flow smoothly tend to make great subjects. On a larger scale, continuous bends in meandering rivers, aspen trunks in a large grove, the lines of wildebeests during the migration and more also work well. The pattern doesn’t need to be in-your-face obvious. Study your surroundings and environment more closely and you’re bound to find patterns in the unlikeliest of places.
Shooting Shapes
Shapes carry ambiguity as there needn’t be rhyme or reason to them nor do they have to show patterns or lines. They just need to be definitive to the viewers of your images. Hillsides dotted with random smaller groves of aspens are a good example. A silhouetted tree against a twilight sky with a crescent moon framing it is a good example that shows ambiguity but also one that shows known shapes. “S” curves are classic shapes in all art forms. There’s no mistaking its shape and it works as a great line to course a viewer through your photos.
Shooting Lines
As just stated, the “S” curve is the most iconic line that comes to mind when a composition is made. It allows the viewer to meander through the image from one end to the other. Lines that lead the viewer to a specific portion of a composition also work to enhance the aesthetics of an image. Horizontal lines imply rest as this is the position you take when you go to sleep. Vertical lines imply strength. When you’re told to “stand up tall,” it sends a message to be alert, on the ball and take on the world. Diagonal lines imply movement. Roll a ball down any diagonal incline and it will move downhill. Build these psychological aspects of line use into your images to influence viewers of your images to feel at rest, feel strong or show speed and movement.
Whether you use patterns, shapes or lines symmetrically to show rhythm or in a more chaotic way to be less obvious, think about the message each sends and how they’ll influence those who study your photography. Each time you venture into the field, incorporate one of these concepts into your repertoire of tricks. You just may come up with that image that hangs on the wall.
To learn more about this subject, join me on a photo safari to Tanzania. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com to get more information.
Mirrorless cameras are here to stay. They have taken over the camera market as the new dominating camera type. Professionals and amateurs alike are waking up to the benefit of a lightweight mirrorless camera that can replace their aging bulky DSLR.
So why should you stay deprived of this new, remarkable, and game-changing photography system?
The idea of a mirrorless full-frame camera is hard to overlook. As general rule mirrorless cameras are all about the benefits of an interchangeable lens camera and the advantages of a full-frame sensor packed into a small body that’s often no bigger than a compact/bridge camera. In this discussion, we shall discuss the top five best entry-level mirrorless full-frame cameras that you can buy. So, without further ado, here they are –
Comparative Analysis Of The Best Entry-Level Mirrorless Full-Frame Cameras
Mirrorless full-frame cameras are truly game-changing in more than one way. So much so that even professional wildlife, sports, and landscape photographers are switching to mirrorless full-frame systems. These three being the most demanding and the most difficult photography genres speaks volumes about the dependency of mirrorless camera systems.
Canon’s EOS RP is the cheapest entry-level full-frame mirrorless camera that you can buy. This compact full-frame camera comes equipped with a 26.2-MP CMOS sensor and is paired with Canon’s DIGIC 8 image processor. The 5-fps continuous shooting speed isn’t something to be too excited about. It’s okay for shooting everyday photos but not suitable for sports and wildlife photography. What’s something to write about is the presence of the dual-pixel CMOS autofocusing that’s perfect for shooting movies.
When you’re shooting stills the 4779 selectable on-sensor phase-detection points gives you all the creative freedom that you need to shoot perfectly focused stills.
The Nikon Z5 is a recent addition to the mirrorless camera lineup of Nikon. This compact full-frame mirrorless camera is powered by a 24.3-MP sensor. The important features of this camera include a 5-axis image stabilization system that works with all compatible lenses.
Plus, it has a 273-point selectable hybrid focusing system. This system uses both a contrast-detection autofocusing mechanism and a phase detection autofocusing mechanism that helps to lock focus accurately when shooting both stills and movies.
The Nikon Z5 is capable of shooting 4K/UHD videos. The lack of N-Log, however, means you won’t be able to shoot a flat profile for color grading later on.
The only Sony on this line-up, and also the cheapest full-frame mirrorless that the company currently makes. Although several years old now, the A7 II is a capable camera in the right hands.
The main features of the camera include a 5-axis in-body image stabilization system and a UHD/4K video shooting feature.
The A7 II comes with a continuous still shooting speed of 4.5 fps. This is okay for shooting everyday photography but is not enough for shooting wildlife and sports.
Additionally, the full HD video resolution of the company is a bit of a deal-breaker because all the other cameras can shoot 4K/UHD. If you’re looking for a mirrorless camera that can also shoot great videos you will find the Sony a7 II to be less than equal to the rest of the cameras in this line-up.
The Sigma fp too comes with a BSI sensor. That means it’s a capable low light shooter and that shows up in the specs with a base ISO range of 100-25600 as well in its performance with clean RAW files.
The sigma fp has a fantastic fast continuous shooting speed of 18 fps. It’s the fastest among all the other cameras in this line-up. In that sense, the Sigma fp is a good option for sports and wildlife photography.
Let’s quickly check the autofocusing technology of the camera. Autofocusing on the Sigma fp is powered by a 49-point selectable contrast detection autofocusing system. The Sigma fp’s focus tracking is decent plus it also has eye detection, face detection, and focus peaking.
There is nothing to differentiate the five cameras in terms of the sensor as they all are equipped with a full-frame sensor of identical measurement and similar resolution. The real technology is however inside.
The Z6 incorporates a BSI sensor which promises superior low light performance. The built-in 5-axis image stabilization system promises blur-free images in most kinds of lighting and regardless of the lens that you pair with this camera.
The advanced 273-point phase-detection autofocusing system covers 90% of the frame and promises superior focus lock and focus tracking. This excellent autofocusing system also works when shooting videos.
One of the better features of the Z6 is the UHD/4K video shooting capabilities. What sets it apart from most other cameras is the presence of N-Log gamma that allows you to shoot a flatter source footage that you can color grade later on.
The 10-bit HDMI output lets you record clean footage to an external recorder which comes in handy when shooting in outdoor locations.
Which Camera Should I Buy?
These five cameras are an interesting mix and even though they’re all mirrorless units and that they’re full-frame camera systems they have their differences. In this section, I shall be discussing a few scenarios and picking the camera that I feel is the best choice to shoot within the given scenario.
Please note that these are my personal opinion and that you may feel you don’t agree with my opinion. Feel free to let me know what you think your pick would be.
Portrait Photography
All five cameras are great for portrait shooting. Resolution-wise and feature-wise they’re all perfectly capable portrait shooters. However, as a lot of photographers prefer using external flash/lighting to shoot portraits, I recommend using the camera system that comes with the biggest selection of OEM and compatible third-party lighting systems. In that regard, the Canon EOS RP and the two Nikon Z series cameras are my picks. You cannot go wrong with any of these three cameras.
Recommended camera – Nothing specific. Choose any of the Nikon or Canon systems.
Street Photography
The Sigma fp is the smallest and the lightest full-frame mirrorless camera on this line-up. At 370 grams (body only), this is a very lightweight camera that you can always carry with you. The perfect sort of camera for street photography. There is a tiny EVF available from Sigma for this camera – the EVF 11. The latest firmware upgrade offers support for this EVF which will extend your creative options.
Recommended camera – Sigma fp
Landscape Photography
I have no particular choice among these five cameras when it comes to shooting landscapes. All of these are extremely good cameras to shoot landscape photography. All of these cameras have sufficient resolution for shooting great quality landscapes that you can print large.
Recommended camera – Nothing specific. Choose any.
Wildlife Photography
While the Sigma fp’s blistering 18 fps continuous shooting speed sounds mouth-watering, its autofocusing is a 49-point CDAF system that’s going to be slow. On the other hand, the Nikon Z6 produces a relatively ‘fewer’ number of frames at 12 fps but that’s enough for all practical reasons.
Plus, it’s powered by a 273-Point Phase-Detect AF System. It’s going to be a much better choice when it comes to wildlife photography.
When shooting wildlife generally your subjects are perched in dark foliage or mixed with their surroundings. Plus, small eyes are difficult to focus on from a distance. That means you need a camera that has superior low-light performance.
Plus, in wildlife, the subjects are never quite standing at one place all the time. For example, if you’re shooting a cheetah in full steam or an Osprey in dive mode you will need a camera that has capable autofocusing that can keep up and a fast continuous shooting speed to produce enough frames. Sports photography is relatively ‘easier’.
Plus, and this is a big plus, the Z6 (along with the Z7) has been upgraded with the new firmware, and with it comes animal eye detection and tracking. This is a huge addition and will come in handy when shooting animals.
You will still have to use the Custom Function buttons if you choose to replace the OK button or continue using the OK button to initiate the lock-on. It’s now a lot easier to lock focus on animals. And in case you’re wondering, it’s easier too to focus on people.
Recommended camera – Nikon Z6
Sports Photography
Going by the performance of the Z6 in terms of wildlife shooting it’s safe to say that it’s ideally suitable for shooting sports photography as well. Between wildlife and sports, there is not much of a difference, except that you get a bit more light to work around.
Both the Z6 and the Sigma fp are capable cameras in that regard. The other three cameras produce too few frames per second and therefore you will have problems keeping up with the action and capturing the best moments if you plan on using any of them at your son’s soccer game.
Recommended camera – Nikon Z6
Movie
Shooting videos is about two things, autofocusing and the ability to shoot high-resolution footage in a flat profile. The Z6’s autofocusing is decent. It does a great job of tracking the subject even as it moves side to side and back and forth. But it’s still not my favorite when it comes to shooting videos.
The Canon EOS RP features Dual Pixel CMOS AF. This is by far the best autofocusing technology for shooting movies. The reason is this technology offers a smoother AF performance rather than the jerky AF performance of phase-detection autofocusing. This is better suited for rocking focus back and forth.
The Nikon Z6 features both N-Log and the ability to record 10-bit HDMI clean output to an external recorder. These two are great features to have for shooting videos and then color-grade them as per requirements.
Additionally, the Z6 features Focus Peaking and Zebra Highlight warning. Focus Peaking is a great tool for manual focus locking. I love using it when shooting videos. It allows me to precisely lock my focus manually rather than use the jerky autofocusing feature of the camera.
The Zebra Highlights warning is a great tool that tells me when I am clipping my highlights. Again, something that’s very beneficial for manual exposure settings.
Finally, let’s talk about the movie features of the Sigma fp. The Sigma fp features a 12-bit CinemaDNG mode that promises a stunning amount of RAW detail that you can further process to fine-tune the results according to your requirements.
Plus, it comes with a list of features that are tailor-made for movie enthusiasts. These include a “Director’s Viewfinder” function which is a great tool if you wish to emulate the different angles of view and how the image looks when shot using certain cine cameras.
I would put the Sigma rf slightly ahead of the Nikon Z6 in terms of video features. But only for ardent movie enthusiasts. For everyone else, the Nikon Z6 is the recommended camera. The Canon EOS RP misses out because of its digital image stabilization system which I am not a fan of.
Recommended camera – Sigma rf for professionals, Nikon Z6 for everyone else.
Concluding Thoughts
All these five cameras are excellent in their rights. In terms of resolution, there is nothing that sets them apart. It’s only the additional features that put one camera ahead of the other in terms of usability in specific situations.
The Nikon Z6 is the most all-rounded camera of the lot and that’s why it gets three recommendations out of five segments. It’s also my favorite camera of the five in the fray.
We hope that the above scenario-by-scenario pick of a camera was helpful for you to zero in on the camera that you need for the kind of photography that you want to do.
Below is a good video on differences between DSLRs and mirrorless:
If you’re interested in learning more about the advantages of shooting with a full-frame camera or want to know about how to choose the right mirrorless camera for you can find more information on our website.
Are you looking for techniques that can help you get close to wild animals? You’ve come to the right place. Wildlife photography is one of the most exciting and beautiful forms of nature photography. It needs a lot of patience and hard work, though.
This article discusses the techniques wildlife photographers use to get close to their subjects.
To get close to wildlife, photographers study their subjects habits and locations, camouflage themselves and use blinds, use specific tele lenses and converters, high resolution cameras, tripods and monopods and remote shutter releases. They use techniques for approaching animals and at times leave their cameras. Drones are also used. Read on for specifics.
Finding Locations
Do you want to know how to find places to take pictures of wild animals near you? Lakes, parks, botanical gardens, natural habitats, and forests are some of the places where you can photograph birds and wild animals.
Do online research. There is a lot of information out there what species can be found where. Besides websites about national parks etc, there are forums where you can find out first hand from people. There are also pamphlets available at welcome centers and tourist information centers once you get to your destination.
Raccoons and squirrels can be found in urban and suburban areas. And forests are home to hundreds of wildlife species, from reptiles and amphibians to birds and mammals. Find a secluded area in the forest, and observe silently.
The animals will show up when everything is silent. However, moving about will probably frighten the animals before you even see them. Are you an early bird? You can increase your chances of seeing the wildlife by getting up early in the morning.
Freshwater habitats like ponds, lakes, and rivers are home to over 100,000 animal and plant species. Find out which kind of animals are present, and when they are most active.
Natural habitats or protected areas offer habitat to several wild animals. In fact, they are vital to prevent the loss of threatened or endangered species. Natural habitats are one of the best places for you to get up close to the wildlife.
Telephoto and Zoom Lenses
Telephoto lenses have longer focal lengths and are great for bringing distant animals nearer. As a matter of fact, they make subjects appear much nearer than they actually are, some allow you to view the beautiful details of a bird which is just a dot with the naked eye. Telephoto lenses between 70 mm- 200 mm are very popular for wildlife photography but they can go much much higher.
Keep in mind as you try to head out with a long lens to capture some amazing wildlife photos that you will a) be likely more visible because of the large object b) will tire more easily if its a heavy lens c) will likely be noisier when approaching animals than with a small compact lens.
Many wildlife photographers are a fan of zoom lenses. Why? Because they allow for flexibility and give you a range of different focal lengths to use. Unlike a zoom lens, a prime lens gives you a single focal length. However, prime lenses are lightweight and tend to be more compact than zoom lenses. Additionally, they have a bigger maximum aperture, which allows faster shutter speeds and lets more light in.
A lens focal length, which is measured in millimeters, determines the view angle and the magnification. It usually ranges between 8 mm and 800 mm. If you have a long focal length, the magnification will be higher and the view angle will be narrower. And if you have a short focal length, the magnification will be lower and the view angle will be wider.
This makes it much easier to spot and follow an animal, especially a fast moving one like a bird, with a shorter focal length lens and much more difficult with a long focal length lens. But the latter one will get you closer to the animal more safely, whether its a dangerous animal like a leopard or you are shooting across a canyon and cannot walk any further to the edge.
You have to practice using very long focal length lenses before you head out, try it in a city where there are many small moving objects to focus on, or a sporting event. You can also limit yourself to a shorter focal length. Sometimes that 800mm heavy long less is overkill for the animal you are trying to capture, especially larger animals.
Tele Converters
Also known as extenders, teleconverters are gadgets that are mounted between a photographic lens and the camera body to enlarge the image made by the lens. Their purpose is to extend the reach of your lens and get nearer to birds and animals. As a matter of fact, these optical accessories increase your lens’s focal length by a factor of 2.0x, 1.7x, or 1.4x. A 2.0x extender will extend the focal length of a 300mm lens to 600mm.
Keep in mind that there is likely to be light loss with these as they add more glass so be careful what lens you use with them and the light your are shooting in.
Camouflage and Blinds
Blinds and camouflages are great tools that let wildlife photographers stay out of sight. Photography catalogs and magazines carry advertisements of several ready-made blinds. Some of these blinds are easy to assemble and light in weight. Camouflage clothing can help you get closer to animals. The best thing about camouflage clothing is that it is affordable and enables wildlife photographers to move as they want.
You can also purchase a ghillie suit, which is a kind of camouflage outfit made to blend with the background environment such as sand, leaves, or snow.
It is extensively used by hunters, snipers, and wildlife photographers because they have to get close to wildlife without disturbing them. In addition to photography stores, you can check out hunting stores like Cabelas.
It is not easy to take photos of animals from a close range. They could get scared and leave the area. However, you can blend with the environment around you and click photos from a close range by using a ghillie suit. The garment comes in four camouflage patterns: Leafy Green, Mossy, Woodland, and Desert.
Camera Resolution
Resolution is measured in megapixels (one million pixels) and pixels and it is the total amount of pixels that your digital camera can capture. It determines how big an image can become without becoming vague. And if you’re wondering what a pixel is, it is a small square portion of the digital picture.
The megapixel count and pixel information will determine the quality of your photos.
The greater the number of pixels in a picture, the higher the resolution will be. You can buy 50 megapixel cameras these days and even 100 megapixel ones, which will give you a larger digital photo. As a result, you will be able to crop more of the photo and still get enough detail on a small object in the photo, like a bird.
When buying a high-resolution camera, keep in mind that not all pixels are created the same, and some high megapixel cameras do not produce the same quality picture as others. This will affect what you can distinguish in a blown up cropped picture. Do your research before buying. Here is the popular Nikon D850 for example.
Tripods
The tripod is one of the essential tools in wildlife photography. It helps photographers stabilize their lens and camera and it is one of the best ways to decrease the blur in pictures caused by the movement of the camera.
If you are shooting with a teleconverter or in dimmer light, or with a long heavy lens, a tripod will do wonders in capturing that small faraway animal. For long heavy lenses, the lens, not the camera is actually attached to the tripod to keep the camera/lens combo balanced, and you will likely need a special gimbal tripod head such as this one.
The majority of tripods are usually made from aluminum or carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is light in weight, long-lasting, and resistant to rust. Aluminum may not be as light but its a little more durable, and much lighter than steel or iron.
Some of the factors you should consider when buying a tripod for nature photography are weight, size, construction material, load capacity, stability, height, and price point.
Keep in mind that as you will be taking pictures from different angles and in different conditions, the tripod you choose should let you shoot from high and low levels. The best tripods are easy and fast to set up, compact when folded, and light in weight. You do not want to be fussing around with your tripod as your subject animal comes into view, nor when a dangerous one approaches too close.
Even a monopod will give you some stabilization even for a heavy long lens.
Here are some of the best tripods for wildlife photography:
Binoculars are a quite useful piece of equipment for wildlife photographers. By improving awareness, binoculars help you find subjects you want to take pictures of quickly, as they are small and can be hanging around your neck. However, without binoculars, there are chances to overlook crucial details, particularly in dense environments.
Make sure to go through the owner’s manual when you purchase a pair of binoculars. Follow the maker’s instructions prior to using them.
Here are some of the best binoculars for wildlife viewing:
A gimbal is a handheld device that stabilizes your digital camera using sensors and motors. It is available for smartphones, mirrorless cameras, and digital single-lens reflex cameras (DSLR). So, the gimbal you choose should support your DSLR camera.
It is another way to keep your camera steady which will prevent blurry photos due to shaking, similarly to a tripod. Here is a good one.
Headlamp
Wild animals and birds are usually more active late in the evening or early in the morning. It almost means that wildlife photographers will spend some time in low light conditions. Therefore, they should essentially carry a headlamp with them. A headlamp is an essential piece of equipment for finding your way around the landscape at night. It does a fantastic job of lighting up your surroundings when you are walking at night.
It will also keep your hands free to work with your photo equipment and check your maps. Headlamps usually come with different brightness modes including a red more which will make you less detectable while still giving enough light to see what you are doing.
If you are looking for a good headlamp, here is one.
Remote Shutter Release
A remote shutter release is an extremely useful accessory, particularly for wildlife photographers. It lets photographers trigger their camera shutter from a distance without touching the camera. This means they are able to hide away from the camera in the bushes or behind a boulder. Yes, you have to be clever to get the best wildlife photos.
A remote shutter release is affordable costing between $5 and $20.
These devices come in many varieties:
a) Specialized camera triggers: Depending on your photographic requirements, specialized camera triggers can be wireless or tethered. Motion detection, lightning trigger, and intervalometers are some of the features of these camera remotes.
b) Infra-red remote shutter releases: These remotes are cheap, reliable, and easy to use. The downside is that they need batteries and have a limited range. Before you buy an infra-red remote shutter release, ensure your camera has a built-in IR receiver.
c) Wireless radio shutter releases: These devices have a broader range than infra-red remote shutter releases. Some remotes can release the shutter from an incredible distance.
d) Smartphone-based remotes: They work with most cameras that come with Bluetooth or Wifi connectivity. What’s more, they have a large range and are reliable.
e) Mechanical cable releases. They do not work with all kinds of cameras. However, the best part is that these remotes do not need batteries and are easy to use and reliable.
f) Tethered shutter releases: They connect to your camera with a cable or wire. They work with most cameras and are easy to use and reliable. However, tethered shutter releases need batteries and have a limited range.
Drones
Drone photography is a kind of aerial photography that depends on drones (remotely handled devices) to take videos or pictures. Also known as unmanned aerial vehicles, drones can cost anywhere from $300 to $60,000.
The best drones for shooting wild animals should be portable, have zoom capabililities, be reliable, have great battery life, and have very low noise. They can be used to get angles of animals you would never be able to with a handheld camera.
Some drones allow mounting of full size DSLRs underneath them, which gives you camera and lens options. However, a drone will not carry a heavy long lens unless its a large loud one. If you cannot use such a drone where you are going because of hiking etc, look for a small one with zoom capabilities and a decent camera like a Hasselblad.
Some of the best drones for wildlife photography are:
These drones will let you photograph the animals and birds in their natural habitat.
Patience and Quietness
It’s worth knowing that having patience is necessary to capture good wildlife shots. Whether you want to photograph deer or elephants, it can be beneficial to devote some time to studying the animals common to the area. Learning where the subjects are usually found and what time of day they are most active can boost your chances of getting excellent pictures.
Remember to remain still and quiet. Fast movements and unnecessary noise can frighten wildlife easily. You should remain calm to avoid frightening animals when taking their pictures. Once you get settled in and comfortable, do not move. After some moments of stillness is when you will see animals start to come out.
Leave your camera
Sometimes the animal you are attempting to capture is just too smart or shy to be photographed if you are there. Another option is to leave a camera unattended and leave the location, then come back some hours later or next day.
This can be accomplished with motion sensor cameras. Such cameras can be set up to be triggered by various animals and movements, a great invention for animals too shy or dangerous to be photographed in person. They often perform well in the dark which is another plus. Some of these cameras are listed here.
Keep in mind that if you are in an unknown open area where others may come, leaving a $200 camera with less picture resolution is preferable to a $5000 DSLR with a motion sensor.
Dealing with predators
While taking pictures of wildlife, keep in mind that some animals such as cheetahs, tigers, lions, and wolves, are predators, and can be extremely dangerous for you. Hence, you should photograph these predators with the utmost caution.
Stay in a place where you can take pictures of your subject but it cannot see you.
Stay downwind to prevent these dangerous animals from picking up your presence and smell.
Always take pictures of a predator from a distance.
Here is a good video on camera settings for wildlife photography:
Take Stunning Wildlife Pictures
Wildlife photography requires patience, dedication, time, commitment, and photographic skills. In addition to this, it also needs equipment and accessories, such as telephoto lenses, zoom lenses, headlamps, binoculars, and more. Above all, you should be ready to devote some time studying animal behavior and tracking them in remote areas. Some animals are active throughout the day. However, dusk and dawn are the best times for spotting several mammals and birds. Last but not least, patience, perseverance, and positivity are essential for success in wildlife photography.
