We’ve spent a lot of time singing the virtues of shooting in the Raw file format, and there are numerous reasons why doing so delivers both optimum image quality and greater versatility during post processing. But in this quick tutorial from the Better Pix YouTube channel you’ll learn the benefits of shooting Jpeg files, along with several helpful tips for creating amazing images.

Our unnamed instructor is an accomplished pro certified by the Professional Photographers of America, and in this six-minute episode he discusses the advantage and disadvantages of Jpeg images and he illustrates his tips with convincing visual examples. It all has to do the situation at hand, how you intend to use the photos you capture, and understanding a few simple techniques that will greatly increase your odds of success.

Most photographers know that Jpegs require far less storage space that their Raw file counterparts, and why they’re all you really need for posting images online. Less well understood is how shooting Jpegs at maximum resolution can deliver perfect exposures with good quality when you take the right approach.

Another key consideration is using the proper settings to  achieve correct White Balance in the camera. The concept of image compression is also important to understand. The instructor puts it like this, “With higher compression an image tends to fall apart because we’re losing important details that contributes to sharpness and other aspects of image quality.”

You’ll also want to remember that unlike with Raw files, image quality is lost every time you save, close, and reopen a Jpeg. This practice can take a heavy toll if you’re in the practice of doing this often. Bottom line, Raw files are a much better option if you re-edit your images frequently to experiment with different effects.

You’ll also learn how under- and overexposing a shot will factor into the equation. Overall, the recommendation for Jpegs is to “use a high file size and a low compression rate” if maximum quality straight out of the camera is the goal.

At this point you’re only halfway through the lesson, and there are more helpful tips for when Jpegs are the name of the game. By the time this video concludes you may ask yourself, “Why NOT shoot Jpegs?”

The Better Pix YouTube channel is a great source of information, especially if you’re a beginner or an inexperienced amateur photographer. So check what’s available that will help you expand your evolving skills.

We also recommend watching another tutorial we featured recently that explains how to use one “essential” lens filter to significantly improve the impact of every photograph you capture in the great outdoors.

Sunrises and sunsets are among the most popular scenes when shooing in the field, but many photographers are disappointed with their results. These misfires often occur because some shooters don’t understand how to take advantage of this soft, warm, and beautiful light. We’re going to fix that today with a five-step guide from the Yorkshire Photo Walks YouTube channel.

Instructor Tom Marsh is a successful British landscape pro whose tutorials all have a common theme; namely, to “help you become a more thoughtful and confident photographer. So if you struggle to capture captivating images when the sun is near the horizon, Marsh’s five simple tips will change all that in a hurry.

In his behind-the scenes episode at the stunning Yorkshire Dales you’ll watch Marsh photograph the iconic Norton Tower—a ruin dating back to 1540 that is thought to have been a hunting lodge. The good news about this form of photography is that the sun rises and sets every day— so there’s plenty of opportunities to practice todays great advice.

The first tip is one you’ve likely heard before, but it definitely bears repeating: “Location. Location. Location.” Marsh explains what to look for at a destination while waiting for Golden Hour and he puts it like this: “I like to think of my sunrises and sunsets as the background in my scene. Therefore it’s my job (and yours) to find something interesting to place between the background and the camera.”

This is a much different and me affective approach that just photographing the landscape as the sun peaks above or drops below the horizon. Compelling elements can be natural, like an interesting tree or impressive pile of boulders, or man-made objects like buildings (or in this case the Norton Tower.

You’ll also learn the benefit of shooting from an elevated vantage point, as well as several ways to frame a scene to accentuate both the midrange element and the warm, glowing background to perfection. Marsh also reveals two popular apps that enable you to quickly determine the precise position and trajectory of the sun at any point in time

We’ve barely scratched the surface to far and there is plenty more great advice, including how to deal with different types of weather and skies, the best way to position a key element with regard to the horizon, and the key camera settings and gear that Marsh recommends

Bottom line: Don’t be satisfied with the same-old-same-old sunrise/sunset photos when you are capable of so much more. The Yorkshire Photo Walks channel is full of helpful lessons like this one, so be sure to pay a visit when you have time to explore.

And on a related note, don’t miss a recent tutorial we featured with a straightforward Lightroom technique that will transform dull daylight landscape photos into attention-grabbing images with a realistic sunset appearance,

Professional landscape photographers are known for carrying a wide array of filters in sizes to fit the lenses they use most. These range from those designed to enhance color, remove reflections, and add a soft glow and other special effects. Then there’s a collection of ND filters in various strengths, and a few graduated and split-tone filters to round out the expensive assortment.

But what if you’re new to shooting landscapes and don’t want to deal with the complexity and cost of some of the more exotic filters, but still would like to give your images a boost? This quick tutorial narrows down the choice to the powerful and easy-to-use polarizer that photographer Jalen Oban says is the “the most important lens filter you should have in your camera bag right now.”

In barely seven minutes you’ll learn how polarizers work, when and why you should use one, and how they can transform good photographs into great ones with a simple twist of their rotating front ring. You’ll also learn why the old school “linear polarizer” is not want you want and why a modern “circular polarizer is the one to get

Polarizers work their magic by reducing glare and reflections from surfaces like water, glass and other shiny non-metallic subjects. They’re also very useful for darkening pale blue skies and increasing saturation of foliage that exhibits glare from the sun.

So how do these affordable filters accomplish these enhancements? Oban puts it like this: “A polarizer works by allowing light waves vibrating in a certain directions to pass through the lens, while blocking light waves vibrating in other directions.” In addition to the benefits mentioned above, the polarizer can greatly improve image contrast.

You’ll see the result through the viewfinder in real time as you rotate the filter’s front ring before pressing the shutter button, which raises an important point: its rarely effective to take  things to the max by eliminating all reflections. That’s because doing so often makes images appear flat and lifeless.

Much the same occurs if you go overboard darkening a sky. In other words, your goal should be a realistic look. Oban walks you through the proper technique for getting the job done, and he provides before/after examples that illustrate everything you’ll  learn.

Oban’s instructional YouTube channel is a great source of other landscape photography tips, techniques, and post-processing methods, so be sure to pay a visit.

And don’t miss the tutorial we posted last week in which another accomplished landscape photographer explains how to choose the optimum ISO setting for various conditions while reducing noise and maximizing sharpness when shooting in low light.