It’s the same sun wherever you find yourself. The same orange hues, the same warm rays. Yet in Santorini, the sunlight is somehow different. Perhaps it’s the way the light flirts around the craggy, tawny brown landscape, bounces off the startling white architecture and dapples the blue of the Aegean Sea. For me at least, it has a way of recovering emotions I thought had long gone, and I got to see it all with the help of exceptional tour guides of VIP Santorini.
Santorini is a crescent-shaped caldera, a volcanic crater, that was once land, but is now filled with water, the result of catastrophic eruptions around 3,600 years ago. Some of it is submerged in the Aegean Sea, but if you look out over the water, you can see the remains that are now Therasia, Aspronisi, and the Kameni islands.
Fira and its signature white buildings, bell towers, and blue-domed, mostly privately owned churches, literally cascade down towards the edges of the caldera and the harbour. Now and then, clouds of pink blooms of bougainvillaea appear along ribbons of narrow, cobbled, twisty lanes.
Cruise ships stop at Fira
Church of Candlemass of the Lord, Fira
Drinks in every nook and cranny
It gets busy when the cruise ships deposit their passengers. They go to the top by cable car, climb the 587 steps or take a donkey ride. I did consider taking the cable car down to the Old Port but instead chose to explore Fira.
It’s joyful to meander around the curvy streets and to pop into the impressive Cathedral Church of Candlemass of the Lord. Jewellery, clothes and souvenir shops beckon from crooks and crannies, while every inch of space with a view has been commandeered by bars and restaurants.
When the sun gets too much, two museums offer relief: the Megaro Gyzi museum, located in an attractive mansion, preserves the cultural and spiritual heritage of Santorini. I got to see maps, landscapes, and traditional Cycladic costumes from the 15th to the 19th century. The other is the Archaeological museum of Thera, rebuilt in 1960 to replace one that had collapsed in the 1956 Amorgos earthquake. It is home to artefacts ranging from the Archaic to the Roman periods.
Three Bells of Fira
Just a little beyond towards the town of Oia is the village of Firostefani (its name means Crown of Fira), which has plenty of churches, and one in particular, the Greek Catholic Church of the Dormition, is famous for its Three Bells of Fira tower, depicting the Trinity Father, Son and Holy Spirit – and a gorgeous backdrop.
Oia is another fine coastal town on the north end of the island. It is Fira’s doppleganger, with great views and just as busy, especially around the market, when the cruise ships dock. It overlooks Ammoudi Bay, which can be reached by a steep flight of 278 steps. This is where catamaran tours set off and also where the best seafood restaurants are located.
View, Oia, Santorini
The colours reflect the light so well that you cannot take a bad picture, and because of that, day trippers gather in prime positions to capture it for themselves.
The crowds can be off-putting, so I hatched a plan to get there early before they do and snap away at my leisure. I came across an Evzone – a ceremonial Greek soldier who wears a skirt and pom poms on his shoes. He was happy to pose for tourists. Of course, I posed with him before parking myself on one of the many balcony cafes to savour those views.
Evzones – Greek soldiers wearing a skirt and clogs with pom poms.
If you doom scroll on social media as I do, you may have seen social media posts that show women wearing dresses whose tails seem to fly. Savvy locals have made an industry of this, especially in the village of Imerovigli, around two miles from Fira. I was stopped in my tracks twice, waiting for the flying dress shoot to be over.
Flying dress shoot
Some say Imerovigli is the most romantic village in Santorini. It is just as beautiful, yet quieter, more peaceful, and because it hangs off a caldera cliff, it offers unobstructed views.
For others, it offers an opportunity to hike. Skaros Rock, the medieval capital and a thriving fortress built to protect against pirates. It was destroyed by an earthquake, is one of Imerovigli’s most famous landmarks. Getting there involves following a well-marked trail from Agios Georgios Chapel and climbing down several hundred steps.
Of course, you can enjoy the sunset anywhere in Santorini, yet I found a particularly good spot at the famous sunset spotting bar Franco on top of a hill in Pyrgos.
This is the highest settlement in Santorini and a quintessentially Greek village with plenty of medieval charm and remains genuinely rustic due to its position away from the caldera. As a result, Pyrgos gets overlooked by tourists, so I would urge you to visit to enjoy its authenticity and, of course, the experience of Franco.
Pirate deterring steps to the Kastilo
Churches on the way up
For that, I had to climb to the top. There is only one way up, and it’s a steep climb along twisting alleys and stairs to get into the walled fortress, Venetian Kasteli. It was designed by the Venetians in the 13th century to be difficult to keep pirates at bay, but it’s so worth it.
I passed wall ruins, doorways, small chapels, and tiny cafes. At Franco, I found a table, ordered some nibbles, a glass of crisp white Assyrtiko wine and watched as the orange sun set, dimming the sky into the evening light.
Sunset on Pyrgos
Settling in Franco on Pyrgos
TOP TIP: Get to Pyrgos at Easter when the village is lit up with 2,000 flaming tin cans illuminating walls, roofs, and courtyards.
Wineries
Santorini has a thriving wine industry, and there are several vineyards on this volcanic land growing indigenous grapes and though the selection of wines is relatively small, they are delicious. White wine varieties are Assyrtiko – this is the most popular, making 80 per cent of the wines produced, followed by Aidani and Athiri. Reds comprise Mandilaria and Mavrotragano grapes.
Unlike, say, Bordeaux, where the vines are tall, here in the volcanic ashen soil, vines are short and grow in nests made from the wood of the vines. This is part of an ancient process called “ambelia” or “kouloura”, which protects plants from strong sandy winds. The plants are pruned to form a low basket where grapes are protected and can mature without risk of damage by sandy wind.
Koutsogiannopoulos museum
Depiction of nest making, Koutsogiannopoulos
There are several vineyards and I visited three to experience their wine tasting or degustation: Anhydrous in Fira, Koutsogiannopoulos in Vothonas, around five kilometres from Fira and Santo Winery Pyrgos, a 30-minute drive south of Oia.
All three offer excellent experiences. However, Koutsogiannopoulos winery has an incredible underground museum that showcases the ambellua process, making for an eye-opening and entertaining visit.
Santo Winery must be the most glamorous place to enjoy a truly elevated tasting experience. It’s mostly alfresco, and we got there in time to salute the sunset with a glass of Assyrtiko white wine before enjoying a sumptuous dinner.
Saluting the sunset at Santo Winery
Wine tasting with dinner at Santo Winery
Strawberry salad Santos winery
The strawberry salad was a highlight made with cherry tomato (the island is famous for its extraordinarily delicious tomatoes), avocado, roasted almonds, and Mozzarella cheese and tossed in a citrus fruit dressing. It paired delightfully with a sparkling 100 percent Assyrtiko white.
Forty One is located on Perivolos Beach, and it’s a glamorous environment with the most comfortable sunbeds I have ever experienced. Plenty of cocktails and a varied menu make this a top venue.
Forty One Beach Club Santorini
Forty One Beach Club, Santorini
Yalos Beach Bar and Restaurant has an out-of-the-way location on Exo Gialos Beach, around 3km from Fira. The narrow strip of pebbles and black sand is surrounded by volcanic rocky hills. It is a beautiful vista of brown and black hues contrasting with the vivid blue of the Aegan sea.
Yalos
Yalos – volcanic scenery
Yalos Sea View
Thimari Lodge
I was staying at the stunning Thimari Lodge just a few minutes walk away from Yalos Beach Bar. The lodge is a series of five white villas whose architecture is more than a nod of recognition to the caves of the region.
Read the full review of Thimari Lodge here.
How to do it
The best way to see the island of Santorini is with a tour guide.
The best tour company on the island is VIP Santorini
The post Your guide to the Greek island of Santorini appeared first on The Travel Magazine.
Thimari Lodge, a series of five cave-like villas, is tucked away in peaceful Exo Gialos (or Exo Gialos Thiras). The name means thyme, and this, along with other herbs, is grown on the five acres of volcanic, arid land surrounding the whitewashed villas.
Nature works differently in this environment. It’s a tawny-hued, rugged, unkempt beauty that I enjoyed looking at from my plunge pool or as I enjoyed an early evening tipple in the quiet of dusk.
Thimari Lodge, Santorini at night
Thimari Lodge is a quiet haven with an air of being in the middle of nowhere. Sometimes it was hard to conceive that the airport was a 15-minute drive away, and the hustle and bustle of the gorgeous capital of Santorini, Fira, was a mere 10 minutes away.
I came alone and found Thimari to be both welcoming, safe, and I was well looked after by husband and wife owners Zoi and Kostas, who were in effect my concierges. There is plenty of privacy and romance in the air for couples, and families have enough space in the two-bed, two-bathroom villas to bond and relax.
There are five villas at the moment (they are planning to add three more), all with their own plunge pool and a colour scheme of cool white and light grey. Light wood furnishings and cushions add a little colour.
The two single-bedroom villas, at around 600 sqm in size, have ample room for two people and three two-bedroom and two bathrooms are duplex and have plenty of space for a small family.
Thimari Suite, ampe space
Thimari Suite, fully kitted out kitchen
Thimari Lodge lounge
Every day, I enjoyed walking past the pomegranate tree to a flight of steps to reach my one-bedroom villa. At night, I loved snuggling into my comfy double bed, then in the morning rolling out of bed into the rainfall shower, making a Nespresso coffee in the fully kitted-out kitchen and sipping it either in my lounging area or on my poolside sunbed.
Pomegranate tree at Thimari Lodge
The fridge is stocked with fruit, several litres of water that are replaced daily and a bottle of locally made wine. Breakfast is included in the fare, and I chose mine every day from a menu offering Greek specialities such as Greek Yoghurt bowl, Greek scrambled eggs and not-so-local brioche French toast as well as vegan options. This was hand-delivered in a basket directly to my villa, along with several pastries, fresh fruit and fruit juice.
Breakfast at Thimari Lodge is delivered in a basket
The nearest restaurant and bar beach club is Yolas on the Exo Gialos beach, a few minutes walk away.
Zoi and Kostas offer hands-on service, including transfers from and to the airport or nearby towns of Fira and Oia and those quieter towns inland. Zoi keeps in touch as a personal concierge via WhatsApp, and Kostas just makes things happen.
A tour perhaps around the island, or wine tours to some amazing wineries? A restaurant recommendation? He organised all my transport and seemingly whatever I could think of, including where to see the best sunsets.
There are massage and beauty services that can be arranged in the villa and alfresco yoga and pilates sessions too, in a dedicated area just beyond.
How much
Rates start at £239 per night.
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The nearest beach is Exo Gialos, just a five-minute or so walk. It’s not soft sand, but it is serene and made wonderful by the Yalos beach club.
A short drive takes you to Fira, the capital and the town of Oia on the island’s northern tip, where there are astonishing views of the Caldera, white washed buildings and the famous blue-domed churches that cascade down the mountainside.
Verdict: The scene at Themari is easy on the eye but also joyful. A sense of happiness is inspired by the owners Zoi and Kostas, whose upbeat, hands-on ways, consistent personal touches and recommendations just make the whole delightful experience one you want to come back to again.
Also Read: Your guide to Santorini
The post Thimari Lodge review, Santorini, Greece appeared first on The Travel Magazine.
