I’m writing this intro on Saturday morning, June 27th. Barely half an hour has passed since the heat melted me out of bed. I turned on my computer a few minutes ago, and even though it’s doing nothing more demanding than running a text editor, the cooling fan is spinning as if I were rendering 8K video. Even my morning coffee feels warmer than usual. Thank goodness there’s no dress code at home! The thermometer in my room reads 28.5°C. Converted to Fahrenheit, it sounds even scarier: 83.3 degrees! Here in Prague, today or tomorrow is expected to bring the highest temperature ever recorded since measurements began in 1775.
Istria is Croatia’s heart-shaped peninsula where Mediterranean charm meets centuries of history, world-class gastronomy and some of Europe’s most beautiful coastal landscapes. In a short distance, you pass from turquoise coastal waters to rolling vineyards, olive groves and hilltop towns rising above the forests.
Istria
Istria
Istria
The region has a distinct identity shaped by centuries of Roman, Venetian and Austro-Hungarian influence. These layers of history are visible everywhere, from ancient ruins and medieval churches to elegant Venetian architecture overlooking the sea.
Fažana
Unlike many destinations shaped by mass tourism, Istria retains an authenticity that rewards slow exploration. Every village has its own story, every meal reflects local traditions and every road reveals a new panorama of vineyards, forests or sparkling coastline.
Vodnjan
Istria
Istria
From the colourful streets of Rovinj to the ancient stone houses of Vodnjan, the fishing heritage of Fažana, the truffle-rich forests around Buzet and the medieval hilltop beauty of Motovun, Istria offers an unforgettable journey through one of the Adriatic’s most captivating destinations.
Bale
I arrive at the airport in Pula, after my Jet2 flight, and a short drive inland brings me to Bale one of Istria’s best-preserved medieval towns. This is going to be my base for a few days and I’m immediately struck by its quiet sloping stone streets – narrow alleyways reveal hidden courtyards, galleries and traditional homes built from local stone.
Bale
Bale
Bale
The historic centre is dominated by the Soardo-Bembo Palace sitting in a square opposite the imposing town hall. Bale has become a haven for artists and creatives, and hosts cultural events and exhibitions throughout the year. It’s the last night of a craft fair and the streets are lined with artisan stalls and there’s traditional music in the main square.
Bale
Bale
Rovinj
Rovinj
Rovinj
Rovinj
Rising dramatically from the Adriatic shoreline, Rovinj’s old town is a maze of narrow cobbled streets, colourful facades and charming squares. At its highest point stands the Church of St. Euphemia, whose bell tower dominates the skyline and offers spectacular views of the surrounding islands and coastline.
Rovinj
Rovinj
Rovinj
The waterfront promenade comes alive in the evenings as people gather at cafés and restaurants to watch the sunset. Fishing boats bob gently in the harbour while locals and tourists mingle among art galleries and boutique shops.
Golden Cape Forest Park
Golden Cape Forest Park
Golden Cape Forest Park
Just south of the old town lies Golden Cape Forest Park, known locally as Zlatni Rt. Shaded by pine trees, cypress groves and Mediterranean vegetation, an e-bike is the perfect way to explore its network of paths. The route takes me past rocky coves and crystal-clear swimming spots and I finally succumb to a cooling dip.
Fažana
Just a short drive north of Rovinj lies Fažana, a charming fishing village that’s retained its authentic maritime character. The waterfront is lined with traditional fishing boats, seafood restaurants and palm trees swaying in the sea breeze.
Fažana
Fazana
Fažana
Stroll through the compact old town, enjoy fresh seafood caught daily by local fishermen or board a boat to explore the nearby islands of Brijuni. Busy during the day, it comes into its own when the day trippers have left, and you can quietly enjoy the glorious sunsets.
Fažana
Fažana
Vodnjan
A few kilometres inland, the town of Vodnjan reveals another side of Istria. Known for its well-preserved medieval architecture and rich cultural heritage, it’s well worth exploring. Its narrow stone streets wind through a historic centre filled with colourful buildings, hidden courtyards and centuries-old churches.
Vodnjan
Vodnjan
Vodnjan
One of these is the Church of St. Blaise, home to a remarkable collection of sacred relics including mummified saints. These “Mummies of Vodnjan,” have lasted for centuries without artificial embalming. They’re remarkably intact and, combined with the church’s impressive collection of relics and religious treasures, this something you don’t see every day.
Vodnjan
Vodnjan
Vodnjan
Just outside the town is the Kažun theme park, a collection of traditional Istrian dry stone huts. These were used by farmers for shelter and in the surrounding area there are roughly 3.000 surviving kažun. The countryside here is home to thousands of olive trees, many of them centuries old. The soil and micro climate means that the olive oil is of exceptional quality, renowned for its vibrant green colour, peppery finish and complex aromas
Kažuns
Chiavalon
Chiavalon
A good place for tasting is Chiavalon, a family-run olive estate that has become one of Croatia’s most celebrated producers of premium extra virgin olive oil. Warming a tiny glass of it in my hands sends the delightful aromas into my nose. Then a small sip and draw air gently through my mouth. This technique reveals many layers of flavour, and I’m surprised I can spot the difference between every blend.
Buzet
For food lovers, however, olive oil is only half the story. Istria is equally renowned for its truffles, particularly the highly prized white truffle that grows in the forests of the Mirna River Valley. At the centre of this gastronomic heritage stands Buzet, often called the “City of Truffles.”
Buzet
Buzet Forest
Truffles
The town sits proudly high on a hill overlooking dense forests where truffle hunters and their trained dogs search for these elusive delicacies. Nearby, in the tiny village of Paladini, at Karlić Truffles, I set out with my guide Armin Hadzic into the woods. Suddenly, his dog Gica stops to paw at the earth, and he quickly rushes over to reveal a black summer truffle hidden just below the surface.
Truffle Hunt
Truffle Hunt
Truffle Hunt
We find a few more and then return home, where the freshly unearthed truffles become the stars of an unforgettable tasting. Simple dishes allow their earthy aroma to shine – bread and local cheeses, followed by scrambled eggs, all with generous shavings of truffle. They find both black and white truffles, depending on the season, attracting chefs and food enthusiasts from around the world.
Karlić Truffles
Karlić Truffles
Karlić Truffles
Motovun
A short drive from Buzet brings me to Motovun, one of Istria’s most iconic hilltop towns. Perched high above the Mirna Valley, it appears almost frozen in time. Encircled by medieval walls, the town commands breath-taking views of vineyards, forests and farmland stretching towards the horizon.
Motovun
Motovun
Motovun
Motovun’s narrow streets, historic buildings and panoramic viewpoints make it one of the most photogenic destinations in Croatia. Yet beyond its visual appeal, the town serves as a gateway to the region’s celebrated food culture. The forests surrounding Motovun are among the most productive truffle areas in Europe, while nearby vineyards produce excellent wines such as Malvasia and Teran.
Motovun
Motovun
Motovun Truffle Dish
The combination of truffles, wine and olive oil has transformed Motovun into a culinary destination of international significance. Visitors can enjoy tasting menus that showcase local ingredients, often paired with wines produced just a few kilometres away. Dining on a terrace overlooking the valley as the sun sets behind rolling hills is an experience that captures the essence of inland Istria.
Factfile
GO:Jet2 flies direct from London Stansted to Pula.
If you’ve spent the past week seeking shade, I can assure you that your garden plants have been, too. To protect plants from sun damage in hot weather, garden experts have revealed four ways to shade plants that can’t be moved during hot weather.
If the most recent heatwave has played havoc with your garden borders, leaving bedded plants crispy, yellow and lacking leaves, then it’s a wise idea to learn how to shade plants in hot weather, especially when you consider meteorologists have warned extreme heat is becoming more frequent.
The first thing experts recommend doing is using shade fabric – such as a piece of cloth, bedsheets or specialist shade netting (£7.40, Amazon) – and staking it over the plants you want to shade.
(Image credit: Getty Images/ Fotokava)
‘One of the easiest and most effective ways to protect delicate plants is by placing stakes around them and attaching garden netting or shade cloth. This creates a protective barrier that reduces the intensity of direct sunlight while still allowing plenty of air to circulate the plant. Unlike solid covers, netting helps prevent heat from becoming trapped, making it an ideal temporary solution during heatwaves,’ explains Amber Tunney, Horticultural Specialist at Cherry Lane Garden Centres.
‘Garden netting or purpose-made shade netting is one of the most practical ways to shield plants from excessive heat. It’s lightweight, simple to install and remove, reusable throughout the growing season and allows both airflow and filtered sunlight to reach plants. This balance helps protect vulnerable plants without depriving them of the light they still need to grow.’
2. Mulch
Ah mulch. We wax lyrical about mulching a garden because there are really so many benefits, especially when using our favourite Rocketgro Organic Mulch, £15 at Amazon. As well as improving soil quality, suppressing weeds and providing insulation in winter, mulch also acts as a layer of suncream for a plant’s roots in hot weather.
(Image credit: Getty Images)
‘The best way to protect plant roots in the heat is to apply mulch to the surface of the soil, which can be done for plants growing in large containers, raised beds, beds and garden borders where plants can’t be moved,’ says Lucie Bradley, gardens and greenhouse expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.
‘Ideally, you need to apply a thick layer of organic mulch between 5 and 8cm deep, remembering to leave a small gap between the mulch and plant stems, tree trunks, etc., as placing mulch against these could cause dampness, which encourages pests and diseases. This depth of organic mulch will not only insulate the soil from the sun, but it will also help to reduce moisture loss and can actually reduce the root zone temperatures by up to 10 degrees Celsius during the hottest times of the day.
‘Some of the best mulches to use include well-rooted garden compost or manure, composted bark or wood chips or mineralised straw mulch such as ‘Strulch’.’
RocketGro
Organic Magic Mulch – 50L
3. Use a parasol
Another garden shade idea that works effectively at shading plants is using a garden parasol or awning to shade your unmovable plants.
(Image credit: Future PLC/Colin Poole)
‘For particularly vulnerable plants, positioning a garden parasol or creating a lightweight canopy over them can make a significant difference. Providing shade during the hottest hours, typically between late morning and mid-afternoon, helps prevent plants from becoming stressed while still allowing them to benefit from the gentler morning and evening sunshine,’ says Amber.
4. Let taller plants provide natural protection
With extreme heat predicted to become more common in the UK, it could be a wise idea to consider your future planting schemes so your most vulnerable plants are protected by taller, sun-tolerant plants.
(Image credit: Future PLC / Colin Poole)
‘If possible, use taller companion plants to cast shade over smaller, more delicate varieties. This natural layering helps lower leaf temperatures and reduces water loss through transpiration, while also protecting foliage from scorching. It’s a simple technique that works particularly well in mixed borders and vegetable gardens,’ says Amber.
What you need
TMGJShd
Shade Netting 60% Sunblock Shade Cloth
Shade netting is well-ventilated to allow airflow, while it blocks the majority of harmful UV rays.
Verve
Verve Natural Woodchip Mulch 100l Bag
Lucie recommends using wood chip to mulch in hot weather.
Home Source
Home Source Gozo 2m Garden Outdoor Parasol Grey
Using a parasol is a great choice in many gardens, and can be enjoyed by both you and your plants!
When it comes to protecting your plants from hot weather, prevention is always better than cure. So, next time the temperature is set to spike, provide shade to your plants quickly, and they should survive the heatwave.
Forsthofgut Nature Hotel in Leogang, Austria has unveiled their newly renovated Garden Loft Suites alongside summer camp programming for children and teens, giving families more space, privacy, and ways to experience summer in the Austrian Alps.