Adobe’s long-awaited Photoshop for iPhone is finally here and today’s tutorial from the popular PHLEARN YouTube channel demonstrates the broad range of available tools and demonstrates how to employ them for quick and effective adjustments on the go.

Instructor Aaron Nace says his channel is the number one online resource for Photoshop and Lightroom users, and here’s how he describes today’s 10-minute video: “This tutorial covers essential editing skills including basic color enhancements, removing unwanted distractions, expanding an image with AI tools, and more.”

There’s also a link in the description beneath the video to Nace’s beginners guide for editing with photos with Lightroom Mobile. In either case, you’ll now have powerful post-processing capabilities in the palm of your hand.

Nace explains the versatility of Photoshop for iPhone and how it enables you to use your own photos, a new blank canvas, generate an image with AI, or edit an image from Adobe Stock. He begins by adding a photo from his camera roll, and he does that by clicking the appropriate icon on his screen.

The first thing you’ll notice after pulling up an image are some quick options that Adobe includes by default. These provide quick actions for several common tasks. For this demonstration Nace goes directly to the editor where he enhances a nicely-composed environmental portrait in several ways. His first step involves cleaning up his shot by removing some elements “we just don’t want to see.”

You’ll do this by using a two-finger gesture to zoom in on the photo. Then you’ll click on Retouch at the bottom the screen and select the Remove tool. Doing so creates a new layer and you’ll proceed from there by following the straightforward steps required.

The foregoing is just a brief taste of all the tips and techniques that Nace provides, and by the time the video concludes you’ll be very confident in you mobile image editing skills. Then pay a visit to the PHLEARN YouTube channel that’s all about enhancing your post-processing skills.

We also featured a tutorial recently for editing images on the computer, in which a globally popular educator demonstrates how she uses Photoshop’s improved Hue/Saturation tools in conjunction with the Contextual Task bar.

Experienced landscape photographers understand the importance of a concept known as “hyperfocal distance” that enables them to maximize depth of field by using appropriate aperture settings and focusing on a specific point within the frame, namely, somewhere between foreground and background depending upon the image at hand.

Today you’ll learn how to put this tool to work in the following eight-minute tutorial from German pro Rainer Hoffman whose instructional YouTube channel is devoted to straightforward tips for shooting in the field. He demystifies today’s transformational concept with easy-to-understand graphics and illustrations.

Hoffman explains it like this: “Hyperfocal distance is important whenever you want depth of field from close to the camera out to infinity.” According to his definition, when the lens is focused at the hyperfocal distance, all objects from half of this distance out to infinity will be acceptably sharp.

At this point you may wonder what Hoffman means by “acceptably sharp,” and he puts this to rest before explaining the key variables that determine hyperfocal distance in any given scene. In simple terms, these include the focal lens of your lens, the aperture setting, and the sensor size of your camera.

You can skip the underlying math with phone apps that quickly do the calculations on your behalf but, like many of us, Hoffman finds it too cumbersome to deal with a smartphone in his hand a camera hanging from his neck. Hence, he uses a handy rule of thumb, and you should use it too.

We’re not going to summarize the technique further because it’s super easy to understand while watching how Hoffman’s graphics clarify the process. There are even some tips for film shooters and those of you who use legacy manual-focus lenses with distance engravings on a DSLR or mirrorless camera.

Be sure to visit the Hoffman Photography YouTube channel where there are many more how-to videos that simplify other seemingly complicated concepts.

And don’t miss the recent tutorial we posted on a similar topic featuring another accomplished pro who demonstrates everything you need to know about controlling f/stop settings like a pro.

Are you confused by all those “weird” numbers, symbols, and other classifications on your memory cards? Well, don’t feel bad because you’re not alone—even though this terminology can be quite important to understand.

Today’s explainer from the popular Aftershoot YouTube channel will bring you up to speed in the next seven minutes. Instructor Ernesto is a professional photographer and he puts it like this: “Knowing your card specs can save you from slowdowns, dropped frames, and even data loss.”

Ernesto decodes all the terminology so that you can identify the speed of your card and understand the impact this has on camera performance—whether you’re shooting still images or videos. He begins with “the big number that stands out the most, and you probably understand that this one refers to a card’s storage capacity in gigabytes (GB) or terabytes (TB). Simply put, this indicates how much information you can store on that particular card before running out of space.

Cards of between 2-32GB are labeled “SDHC” (HC standing for High Capacity.” Those that go beyond 32GB to 2TB are referred to as “SDXC” or Extended Capacity. And if you see a card labeled SDUC, that’s an Ultra Capacity card that can hold up to 120TB of information.

But there’s much more terminology on a card label beyond storage capacity and you have to look closer because this identifying information is printed much smaller. The next bit of critical nomenclature expresses the speed of a card; namely, how quickly data is transferred from the camera to the card regardless of capacity. This classification is represented as a number inside of a small circle.

A Class 10 memory card, for example, assures you a minimum write speed of 10MB per second. As Ernesto explains, “My Sony A7iv shoots 35MB Raw files, which means that a Class 10 card could take up to 3.5 seconds to store that image into that card.” This rate of data transfer may be OK for capturing a high res image or two but won’t get the job done with sports or wedding photography when you’re shooting numerous images at high burst rates.

And videography calls for the fastest cards you can afford. As this point you’re less than halfway through the eye-opening episode and there’s much more to unpack. Once you’re done, head over to the Aftershoot YouTube channel where’s there’s much more to learn.

We also recommend watching another helpful explainer that we shared recently, demonstrating the power of your camera’s Single-Point AF mode and how to use it to capture precisely focused photographs in a wide range of situations.