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Our Florida Keys travel guide and trip itinerary covers everything you need to know — things to do, where to stay, packing and more!
Can you believe I’ve lived in the United States my entire life and I had never been to Florida except during a layover? I’ve always thought I needed to leave the United States in order to find the white sand beaches and warm water that I crave on a regular basis.
Florida never really crossed my mind until I was invited by the Florida Keys Tourism Development Council a few weeks ago for an eco-adventure trip and now I’m thrilled to write about it and share my tips!
Oddly enough, I happened to visit during some of the coldest weather that The Florida Keys has seen in a long time, but I did get to enjoy a couple of days of sunshine (so I do have a pretty good idea of what it’s like the other 362 days of the year in The Keys).
I wasn’t just excited to see the beaches and swim in balmy ocean water in January, but The Florida Keys is home to some of the most adventurous water sports — including flying over the water with a Jetpack. After I saw this on my trip to Aruba, I couldn’t wait to try it.
Most of my trip to the southernmost part of the United States was spent in Marathon and Islamorada — both of which have plenty of things to do for an entire vacation.
As much as I would have loved to see all of The Keys, I was surprised at how much there is to occupy your time on just these two islands. If you are planning a trip this way, I highly recommend setting up camp in either place and exploring from there.
Use this Florida Keys visitor guide to help you plan your trip!
What Are The Florida Keys Known For?
The Florida Keys are known for their lush tropical landscape and crystal clear water, making this the perfect destination for a tropical vacation with plenty of water activities. The beautiful beaches and peaceful atmosphere of the Keys make it an ideal place to relax away from busy city life.
For those with an adventurous spirit, the Keys offer endless activities to keep you entertained. Fishing is a popular pastime here, whether you’re searching for big game or simply enjoying a leisurely afternoon on the water.
Scuba diving and snorkeling are also popular activities here, as the shallow coral reefs provide a vibrant underwater playground filled with colorful fish, turtles, and more. Boating is another must-do activity, whether you’re taking part in deep-sea fishing or simply exploring the bays and coves around each island.
The Keys are also home to unique cultural experiences that can’t be found anywhere else in Florida.
Key West is known for being one of America’s most unique cities, with its unique ‘conch culture’ that dates back centuries. The streets of Key West are filled with art galleries and independent shops selling handmade crafts — and perfect souvenirs to remind you of your time spent in paradise!
For music lovers, there are plenty of live music venues all over Key West where you can enjoy local musicians playing blues, jazz, country rock – even steel drum music!
The Florida Keys truly have something for everyone!
Getting to the Florida Keys
If you’re flying in, your best bet is to land at Miami International Airport (MIA) or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Airport (FLL) and then rent a car. From Miami, the drive to Key Largo takes about 1.5 hours, and Key West is roughly 3.5–4 hours. The drive itself — cruising down US-1 (the Overseas Highway) with water on both sides — is honestly one of the best parts of the trip.
One tip I wish someone had given me: avoid arriving on a Friday afternoon. There’s only one main road in and out of the Keys, and weekend traffic can turn what should be a 2-hour drive into a 4-hour crawl. Trust me on this one.
If you’re heading all the way to Key West, you can also look into booking a one-way flight into Miami and a separate flight home out of Key West’s small airport (EYW) — that way you only have to do the drive once and get to enjoy the scenery without the rush to get back.
Upper, Middle & Lower Keys: What’s the Difference?
The Florida Keys stretch about 120 miles from end to end, and they’re generally broken up into three regions. Here’s a quick cheat sheet:
The Upper Keys (Key Largo, Tavernier, Islamorada) are the first ones you’ll hit coming from Miami. Key Largo is famous for diving — it’s home to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, the first underwater state park in the US. Islamorada (where I spent part of my trip!) is known for world-class sport fishing and stunning sunsets.
The Middle Keys (Marathon and the surrounding islands) are where things get quieter and more local. This is where you’ll find the Turtle Hospital, the Seven Mile Bridge, and Bahia Honda State Park — one of the best beaches in the entire Keys.
The Lower Keys (Big Pine Key, Sugarloaf Key, and eventually Key West) feel the most remote and wild. Big Pine Key is where you can spot the tiny, endangered Key deer — they’re about the size of a large dog and somehow even cuter than that sounds. Key West anchors the southern end and has its own vibe entirely.
You don’t have to see all three regions on one trip (my itinerary covers just the Middle and Upper Keys and I had more than enough to keep me busy!), but knowing the layout helps you plan smarter.
Florida Keys Travel Guide & Itinerary
By viewing the map below, you can get an idea of where Marathon and Islamorada are located. (The Lower Keys are not included in this map.)
Day 1 & 2: Marathon
Best Things to Do in Marathon, Florida Keys
Marathon is situated in the Middle Keys and stretches about ten miles long. It’s composed of Knight’s Key, Boot Key, Key Vaca, Fat Deer Key, Long Point Key, Crawl Key and Grassy Key.
Snorkel Tour to Sombrero Reef
We took a boat tour to Sombrero Reef with Hall’s Diving Center and spent the day snorkeling with friendly fish. The captain and first mate were a fun crew who were obviously passionate about the ocean and its creatures.
Wakeboarding at Keys Cable
This was truly a unique experience. Imagine getting pulled across a lake on a wakeboard by an overhead cable. I’ve tried wakeboarding behind a boat once or twice, but you always have to trust the person who’s driving the boat to stay at a steady speed.
Wakeboarding at Keys Cable made it so much easier because you have an expert who is pulling you along with a remote, who knows exactly what speed to go and can even teach you to go over jumps. You can take your practice here and apply it to other water sports (or snow sports) back at home. It’s the perfect time to take your practice to the next level. If you are wondering whether it’s a good workout, I was sore for over a week!
I’m so happy I was able to spend some time at the Turtle Hospital in Marathon. It’s heartwarming to see an organization who cares so much about these sea creatures. We watched a turtle surgery where they removed tumors and met dozens of turtles who were in rehab from boating mishaps and water pollution. Once the turtles have completely recovered, they make sure to release them in the same spot where they were found.
Tranquility Bay is a recently-renovated resort that offers beach house rentals as well as sixteen new luxury guestrooms. It’s very tastefully decorated, has a swimming pool, beach volleyball court, tiki bar and award-winning restaurant right on the property. On my first night here, I went to watch the sunset at the beach and found a playful dolphin jumping around right near the shore. I’m told it’s a common occurrence here.
Hawks Cay Resort is another great option on Duck Key in Marathon. Their customer reviews are excellent — especially from couples looking for a quiet getaway.
Islamorada is known as the “Village of Islands” and it consists of Tea Table Key, Lower Matecumbe Key, Upper Matecumbe Key, Windley Key and Plantation Key.
Tiki Jet Jetpack Adventure
Trying Jetpack for the first time was beyond hilarious. The owner of Tiki Jet in Islamorada is highly entertaining and makes you feel safe every step of the way. I really thought it would be an easier sport, but I found myself trying too hard and that’s exactly what you don’t want to do.
If you are with a group of friends or on a family vacation in The Keys, you absolutely have to try Jetpack. You will be laughing the entire time and it will undoubtedly get your adrenaline pumping.
Where to Stay in Islamorada
I was stunned from the first moment I walked into Cheeca Lodge and Spa. This hotel sits on a long, perfectly-groomed beach and is home to the longest pier in The Keys. They offer seventeen different room types, a snorkeling lagoon, kayaks and several restaurants on the property.
I have never seen a more luxurious soaking tub than the one I found sitting on my huge, private balcony. They also offer adult-only bungalows for happy couples looking for a little peace and quiet.
What to Expect Budget-Wise
The Florida Keys are not a budget destination — I want to be upfront about that. But with a little planning, you can make it work without breaking the bank.
Accommodation ranges from around $150–$250/night for more modest options up to $300–$600+ for nicer resorts (Cheeca Lodge, where I stayed in Islamorada, is a splurge but absolutely worth it). For meals, you can eat well at a casual waterfront spot for $15–$25, or spend $40+ at a sit-down restaurant. Activities like snorkel tours and fishing charters typically run $50–$150 per person.
The good news? Some of the best things about the Keys are completely free — watching the sunset, driving the Overseas Highway, and just soaking up that slow, salty island atmosphere.
What is the Best Month to Visit the Florida Keys?
For those looking to get the best out of their Florida Keys vacation, it is a good idea to plan ahead and visit during the optimal time of year.
The best time to visit the Florida Keys is usually between November and April. This period, known as the dry season, typically has low humidity levels and temperatures in the 80s. Rainfall is also much less likely during this time, making it ideal for outdoor activities such as snorkeling and fishing. Additionally, you’ll avoid the summer hurricane season by scheduling your trip during this part of the year.
December through February tends to be a bit cooler than other months and is not as inviting for swimming and sunbathing at the beach, although I still loved my visit in January!
I’d also recommend checking out festivals and events you might be interested in attending during your trip. For example, you can schedule your vacation during the Lobster Mini-Season or Fantasy Fest.
No matter when you decide to visit The Florida Keys, each season has something unique to offer travelers!
Best Beaches in the Florida Keys
I’ll be honest — if you’re expecting wide, powdery Atlantic surf beaches, the Keys will surprise you. The beaches here are smaller and calmer, with that clear, glassy Caribbean-style water. Once you get used to the idea, it’s actually perfect.
Here are the ones worth knowing about:
Bahia Honda State Park is the crown jewel. This natural beach near Marathon has soft white sand and shallow turquoise water that genuinely looks like it belongs in the Bahamas. It’s also a great snorkeling spot for beginners.
Anne’s Beach in Islamorada is a sweet, laid-back spot popular with locals. It’s not huge, but the vibe is unbeatable and the shallow water is ideal for wading.
Sombrero Beach in Marathon is free, clean, and very family-friendly — with picnic tables, a playground, and calm water. It was one of my favorites.
Smathers Beach in Key West is the largest beach in the Keys and the most lively, with plenty of water sports rentals and vendors nearby.
A word of advice: bring water shoes. The shoreline in many parts of the Keys is made up of crushed coral and limestone, not sand, so they come in handy.
Best Foods to Try in the Florida Keys
The Florida Keys offer some of the most delicious and unique food in the United States. There are a variety of dishes to try, including classic Floridian favorites, local seafood specialties, and exciting new culinary trends.
Here are some of the best foods to try in the Florida Keys:
Key West Conch Fritters – This classic seafood dish is made with freshly-harvested conch meat that is ground into a paste, then deep-fried in a light batter. The crunchy outside and soft inside make for an irresistible snack! Try them with a side of remoulade sauce for a truly unique experience. I recommend checking out The Conch Shack, if you’re in the area!
Grouper Reuben Sandwich – This signature sandwich consists of fresh grouper filet, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese and Thousand Island dressing served on marbled rye bread. Enjoy it as an afternoon snack or lunchtime meal – either way, it’s sure to satisfy! “Off The Hook” Grill serves a great one!
Stone Crab Claws – Stone crabs are wild-caught from local waters and their sweet claws are especially prized for their delicate texture. Stone crab claws can be boiled or grilled and served with lemon butter or garlic butter sauces. If you’re looking for a place to try this amazing dish, check out Conch Republic Seafood Company.
Key Lime Pie – No trip to the Florida Keys would be complete without sampling famous Key lime pie. The tart flavor comes from freshly squeezed limes which are combined with sweetened condensed milk (or egg yolks) before being poured into graham cracker crusts. A dollop of whipped cream makes this dessert even more enjoyable! Almost every restaurant serves Key Lime Pie and, in my opinion, you should sample one from every place!
These are just some of the amazing foods you can find while visiting the Florida Keys – there’s something delicious to suit every taste!
How Many Days Do You Need in the Florida Keys?
When it comes to planning a trip to the Florida Keys, there are many factors to consider. One of the most important questions is how many days do you need to fully experience everything that this beautiful destination has to offer?
While it may be tempting to try and squeeze in a quick weekend getaway, it’s important to remember that the Florida Keys are best enjoyed when you allow yourself more time.
I recommend staying in the Florida Keys for at least four days. This allows for enough time for exploring all that this charming island chain has to offer, from its stunning white sand beaches and vibrant coral reefs to its picturesque marinas and quaint fishing villages.
It also gives you ample opportunity for relaxation, with plenty of chances for lounging on the beach or taking sunset cruises aboard luxury yachts. With four full days in the Florida Keys, you can truly experience the best of what this tropical paradise has to offer.
For those looking for an even longer visit, a week-long trip spent in the Florida Keys will give you even more opportunities for exploration.
With a few extra days, you can take a leisurely tour of Key West’s historic sites or spend more time snorkeling or diving amongst some of the world’s most spectacular marine life. You might even choose to go fishing with one of Key West’s experienced guides or take an eco-tour through Everglades National Park – just two hours away from Key West by car.
Alternatively, adding a few extra days offers up even more time for simply relaxing on sandy beaches and soaking up some sunshine – something that never seems like enough when visiting such a stunning coastal destination!
What to Pack for a Trip to the Florida Keys
After spending time in the Keys, I can tell you there are a few things you’ll wish you had if you don’t pack them — and a few things people overpack that you really don’t need.
The non-negotiables:
Reef-safe sunscreen — This one is important. The Florida Keys sit inside a protected National Marine Sanctuary, and traditional sunscreens with oxybenzone and octinoxate are harmful to coral reefs. Pack a mineral-based (I like this one), reef-safe formula and feel good about slathering it on.
Water shoes — I mentioned this in the beaches section and I’ll say it again here. A lot of the Keys shoreline is crushed coral and limestone, not soft sand. Water shoes make getting in and out of the water so much more enjoyable. I like these water shoes because they are light and easy to fit into my bag.
A reusable water bottle — You’re going to be outside in the heat and on the water a lot. Stay hydrated. It’s also just the eco-friendly thing to do in a place that cares so much about its environment.
Lightweight, quick-dry clothing — Linen, moisture-wicking fabrics, anything that dries fast. You will get wet, whether you plan to or not.
A light layer for evenings — Even in summer, the air conditioning at restaurants in Florida is notoriously aggressive. Pack one light cardigan or long-sleeve shirt so you’re not freezing over your stone crab claws.
Polarized sunglasses — The glare off the water here is intense. Polarized lenses make a real difference, especially if you’re out on a boat.
A dry bag or waterproof phone case — Whether you’re on a snorkel tour, a kayak, or a jetpack (highly recommend), keeping your phone and valuables dry is worth thinking about in advance rather than after the fact. I bring this dry bag backpack on all of my tropical trips.
Motion sickness medication — If you’re prone to seasickness at all, pack something. Boat tours are a big part of the Keys experience and the water can get choppy.
Sign up for my travel newsletter here and be the first to get my best travel advice and secret finds — so you can discover hidden gems, and travel like an insider (not just a tourist).
After traveling consistently for over 20 years, I’ve come to trust and rely on a few websites to help me find the best deals on flights and accommodation.
Flights:Going is the first place I check when searching for cheap flights. If you sign up for their email alerts, you’ll receive flight deals at up to 90% off. I have traveled all over the world using their flight deals.
Accommodation:Booking.com offers savings on hotels, apartments, and villas in 80,000 destinations worldwide. You can browse hotel reviews and find the guaranteed best price on hotels for all budgets.
Travel Insurance: I never travel without a travel insurance policy because it’s not worth the risk! I use and trust Visitors Coverage, which I have used for the past 10 years.
Let me book your trip! Looking for a Travel Advisor to help you plan your trip? Learn more here!
FAQs: Florida Keys Travel Guide
What is the best month to visit the Florida Keys?
To avoid hurricane season and enjoy the ideal weather (less rain and 80 degree temps), I recommend visiting the Florida Keys during the months of November to April.
Do you need a car to visit the Florida Keys?
If you are visiting anywhere outside of Key West, you will need a car when visiting the Florida Keys.
How many islands are in the Florida Keys?
The Florida Keys consist of around 1,700 islands, forming an archipelago that spans across an area of approximately 198 square miles.
How do you get to the Florida Keys from Miami?
Drive south on US-1, also known as the Overseas Highway. It takes about 1.5 hours to reach Key Largo and 3.5–4 hours to reach Key West. You’ll need a rental car if you’re visiting anywhere outside of Key West. One tip: avoid arriving on a Friday afternoon — the single road in and out of the Keys gets backed up quickly on weekends.
What is the difference between the Upper, Middle, and Lower Keys?
The Upper Keys (Key Largo and Islamorada) are closest to Miami and known for diving and fishing. The Middle Keys (Marathon) offer a quieter, more local feel. The Lower Keys stretch down to Key West, which has its own lively culture and is the southernmost city in the continental US.
What are the best beaches in the Florida Keys?
Bahia Honda State Park near Marathon is widely considered the best natural beach in the Keys. Anne’s Beach in Islamorada is a lovely local favorite. Sombrero Beach in Marathon is free and great for families. In Key West, Smathers Beach is the largest and liveliest. Bring water shoes — many shorelines are coral rather than sand!
Is Key West worth visiting on a Florida Keys trip?
Yes, especially if it’s your first time in the Keys. Key West has a completely different energy from the rest of the island chain — it’s walkable, full of history, and has iconic spots like Mallory Square and Duval Street. That said, if you’re mainly there for nature and water sports, you can have a phenomenal trip without making it all the way down.
Do you need a passport to visit the Florida Keys?
No! The Florida Keys are part of the United States, so no passport is needed for US residents or citizens. Just your standard ID. You would only need a passport if you were venturing into international waters, like taking a boat trip to the Bahamas.
What wildlife can you see in the Florida Keys?
So much! In the water: sea turtles, manatees, dolphins, reef fish, lobster, and nurse sharks. On land: the adorable and endangered Key deer on Big Pine Key (they’re only found in the Keys and are roughly the size of a large dog). The Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary — the only coral barrier reef in the continental US — is home to over 6,000 species of animals. If wildlife is your thing, plan extra time for the Turtle Hospital in Marathon and the Dolphin Research Center.
Are the Florida Keys good for families with kids?
Really good, actually. The calm, shallow water is perfect for kids who are just learning to snorkel. The Turtle Hospital in Marathon is a highlight for little ones — watching rescued sea turtles recover and eventually get released is something they won’t forget. Bahia Honda State Park is ideal for a relaxed beach day, and Sombrero Beach in Marathon has a playground right on the water. The whole pace of the Keys — slow, warm, and unhurried — makes it a great family destination.
Is visiting the Florida Keys expensive?
It can be, but it doesn’t have to be. Accommodation is the biggest cost — budget on $150–$250/night minimum, with nicer resorts running higher. Meals range from affordable waterfront fish tacos to full sit-down dinners. Activities like snorkel tours and fishing charters are typically $50–$150 per person. The silver lining? The sunsets, the drives, and the beaches are free — and honestly, those end up being some of the best parts.
Plan Your Trip
Sign up for my travel newsletter here and be the first to get my best travel advice and secret finds — so you can discover hidden gems, and travel like an insider (not just a tourist).
After traveling consistently for over 20 years, I’ve come to trust and rely on a few websites to help me find the best deals on flights and accommodation.
Flights:Going is the first place I check when searching for cheap flights. If you sign up for their email alerts, you’ll receive flight deals at up to 90% off. I have traveled all over the world using their flight deals.
Accommodation:Booking.com offers savings on hotels, apartments, and villas in 80,000 destinations worldwide. You can browse hotel reviews and find the guaranteed best price on hotels for all budgets.
Travel Insurance: I never travel without a travel insurance policy because it’s not worth the risk! I use and trust Visitors Coverage, which I have used for the past 10 years.
Let me book your trip! Looking for a Travel Advisor to help you plan your trip? Learn more here!
Down at the ski lift a gang of midgets has rolled up. They’re all riding miniature mountain bikes with full face helmets, while occasionally crashing into each other. I look closer and see they are in fact very small children, their happy faces just visible inside the helmets. It’s a school day and the class, along with their teachers, are about to ride the ski lift up to the top to descend by mountain trails. It looks a lot more fun than any of the school trips that I ever went on.
Here in the alpine village of Arâches-La-Frasse, like all the villages of Haute Savoie Mont Blanc, outdoor activities are not so much obligatory as sought after eagerly, and they start here very young,
The snow that provided such superb skiing all winter in this corner of Haute-Savoie, close to Chamonix Mont Blanc, has retreated to leave meadows now lush with green grass and ablaze with wildflowers. It’s a walkers’ and hikers’ paradise at this time of year, with the sun shining hot out of a clear blue sky, but the elevation above sea level is keeping the air pleasantly fresh, while the views are never anything but breathtaking.
Up in that clear air, paragliders soar like technicolour eagles, while down on the ground powerful electric mountain bikes for adults can be hired in most towns and villages for private rides or rides with a guided group up mountains or around vineyards.
Swap skis for pedals
I tried the latter out, and even at my age, sixty-seven, I found the climb from the village up the lower parts of the mountain fairly easy, thanks to the five-stage electric motor and nine classic gears.
It was hair-raising, yet enormous fun, on the descent. The heavy bike yearns to go fast, but on the slippery stones it’s best to rein it in or face a tumble. Plus, you want to take frequent stops to be able to drink in the ever-changing vertiginous views of this unique landscape.
It’s odd to see familiar places like Chamonix denuded of their snow. Many visitors who ski have never seen this side of the region, and that’s a shame. Out of ski season, the area has a whole different feel, the locals and visitors more relaxed and less ‘good time’ focused. It’s a season to be active, but in a relaxed way, on bikes, on hikes, on water rapids and on climbs, to visit vineyards, linger over lunches of local cheeses, hams and beer, and even to go to the ‘beach’ by the lakes for sunshine and cool bathing.
Mountain gardens and cake
Villages like Samoëns in the Giffre Valley of Haute-Savoie are quiet and pretty. The name is said to come from ‘seven mountains’, referring to the towering limestone peaks that surround it. Here you can hang out in the traffic-free centre with timeworn stone buildings and cobblestone streets, where a coffee and gorgeous cake in the shade is a reward after a visit to the Alpine Botanical Garden Jaÿsinia, with its 4,500 mountain plants, divided into 2,500 species over 3.7 hectares (9.1 acres).
This beautiful garden, created in 1906 by Marie-Louise Cognacq-Jaÿ, rises almost vertically up a limestone cliff,but its meandering paths make the ascent easy. Entrance through the original wrought iron gates is free and guided tours will take you up to the top. Here, its ruined mini-castle once defended the elegant town and its 16th century Notre-Dame-de-l’Assomption church, the work of the world-famous Masons of Samoëns (frahans), limestone stonemasons who once made up nearly all the men of the village.
Chamonix out of ski season
The Alps of course dominate the region. Back in Chamonix, I was lucky enough to get a quick preview of the newly remade Musée du Mont-Blanc that was just a week away from opening. There were still people pulling wires through conduits and balancing precariously on stepladders, but I saw enough to appreciate what a very modern museum it is, with all the interactivity you’d expect.
The museum celebrates Alpinism and the people who were brave, or perhaps foolhardy, enough to first ascend the heights and discover new routes. There’s even an ancient wooden climbers’ shelter on display that was lifted down from the mountain in one piece by helicopter. Of course, it’s also sobering to see how much the snowline has retreated over recent times. The glaciers are shrinking a bit each year.
Melting snow needn’t be all bad, though. It’s well worth getting up to the Cascade de Rouget in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, a waterfall of staggering power and size that’s fed by the snow melting higher up. It falls tumultuously for over 80 metres and the mist it creates can sometimes close the road close by. You can also walk up to it, which takes about forty-five minutes.
Relaxing in sulphurous steam
If you feel in need of some pampering after a strenuous walk, and fancy a good steak cooked over wood, then the Thermes of Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc is the place to go. The steaks are served up in the village at the traditional Le Galeta, while at the spa, originally created in the early nineteenth century, natural spring water at around 39°C pushes up from the depths well-fed in minerals including sulphur, magnesium, silicon and copper. The outdoor thermal pool is ringed by towering pines and is the perfect place to reset both body and mind, even though when I was there, a rain squall suddenly came over.
The elegant Hotel Le Saint-Gervais, a classic alpine hotel very tastefully modernised inside, is good to pass the night before walking a few metres to the base station of the Tramway du Mont Blanc. It’s now, since its recent extension, the highest railway in France, climbing above 2,000 metres above sea level.
It takes about an hour for it to clamber up its toothed track to the terminus, Nid d’Aigle—the Eagle’s Nest. The views on the way are stunning and ever-changing. Out of the window, you can also see how the track snakes left and right to ease the gradient, a remarkable feat of engineering and determination.
At the top spectacular mountain scenery stretches in every direction. The station building was once a climbers’ refuge, but is now a smart café. Here, those who’ve walked all the way up can get a tasty reward, while the less fit, like me, who’ve arrived by train, can get ready to make the descent on foot, aided by gravity. It’s not difficult, but an Alpine pole and suitable shoes are good accessories.
Walks here are in fact very much what you want to make them, ranging from pretty easy to very challenging indeed. Descents are easiest, of course, and most of the ski lifts now carry walkers up to various heights; some can even accommodate bikes as well. It all runs like clockwork, perhaps because of the proximity to Switzerland? After all, Chamonix is just seventy-five minutes from Geneva by car.
Pack your boots
My final non-strenuous walk took me from Col de Joux Plane high above Samoëns, to La Bourgeoise, and its360° panorama of the region. Wide open fields of flowers, soundtracked by the ‘clank clank’ of the happy cows chowing down, led to a spectacular view of Mont Blanc and its permanently snow-covered peak.
I encountered a group of about fifteen French people in full walking gear who had made a long trek from across the valley. ‘How old are you all?’ I asked, rather cheekily and their leader thought about it for a moment.’ Eh bien,’ he said,’ the youngest here is 74. I am 80.’
Which neatly goes to show, the delights of the Haute Savoie Mont Blanc region out of ski season really are for everyone.
FACT FILE
FLY: EasyJet flies to Geneva from London Gatwick, London Luton, Manchester, and Bristol.
STAY:
Hotel Neige Et Roc, Samoëns Haute-Savoie, a traditionally styled chalet hotel.
Rocky Pop Hotel, Les Houches, a quirky hotel for young backpackers
Le Saint Gervais, Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc, a beautifully classic hotel restored from a 1920s mansion
With its stunning waterfront views, comfortable boutique rooms, and fresh seafood, the Oyster House, in the charming village of Mumbles in Swansea, is the perfect weekend in South Wales. This coastal escape is a hidden gem and ideal for a getaway.
Their concept of “sip, supper, snooze” is one that I could live my life by. And don’t take my word for it. Mumbles is also the retreat of Swansea-born Hollywood star Catherine Zeta Jones who grew up in the village and owns a property there, as did the late singing superstar Bonnie Tyler, whose property overlooks the iconic Gower Peninsula.
Who For
Couples, families and friends who enjoy the outdoors, having fun and love great food. Visitors will be blown away by the spectacular views of Swansea Bay, and the bustling Mumbles seafront, as well as the hotel’s ambience and warm hospitality. For our girls’ trip, it had it all. We could enjoy restaurant dining and drinks, coffee and chat on the hotel’s sunny terraces, and enjoy beautiful walks along the famous Gower Peninsula only a short distance from the hotel’s front door. The cute independent shops and galleries on Newton Road were also a bonus. Its prime location in the heart of the village makes it an ideal point for accessing local sightseeing attractions and nature.
Accommodation
Oyster house
The 16 rooms in the Oyster House are individually designed and fabulously furnished. My balcony room was spotlessly clean, comfortable, and decorated with a modern, coastal aesthetic and offered an incredible outlook over the sea. Wall mirrors look like portholes on a ship; the bedheads are shaped like waves. Small details add to the charm of each room, with shell-shaped chocolates on the dresser, with a retro Roberts Radio playing classical music, and a small tray set up with two cups of tea and a famous Welsh cake under a glass dessert dome.
Somehow it tasted much sweeter and more delicious when eaten in South Wales. The team at Oyster House are friendly, attentive and welcoming.
Rooms have air conditioning, smart/satellite TV and free WiFi. Other extras include complimentary bottled water, and fresh milk in the room fridges. This beautiful property, set over two floors, is a delight.
Food and drink
The hotel’s seasonal menu and daily dishes offer a blend of nostalgic classics to well loved dishes. Seafood is sourced from local suppliers. Diners enjoy fresh catches like whole lemon sole, whitebait, and popular Sunday sharing roasts. My breakfast, a scrumptious scrambled salmon on English muffins, with fresh juice and a perfect latte, got high marks.
There are hearty full fry-ups if you have indulged the night before and local options like cockles and laverbread. Next door to the Oyster House is a sun-drenched rooftop bar and restaurant called Ula. Newly opened, Ula is a must. On Friday evenings a DJ plays great tunes if you want to dance underneath their glitter ball, and there is a photo booth to record your memories.
The delicious Asian menu got a chef’s kiss from us, and their mixologist served a delectable Rosato Spritz and margaritas as we watched the sunset. Rok was another find. A contemporary restaurant overlooking Bracelet Bay, we had a sumptuous range of snacks, small plates and sharing dishes which were mouth-watering. Sophisticated and friendly, the food was delicious.
Mumbles is famed for its ice cream parlours, and Joe’s Ice Cream on Mumbles Road is a favourite, renowned for its delicious classic fresh vanilla. Sadly, the Italian gelateria and cafe, Verdi’s, was destroyed last month (July) in a fire, but the owners and staff have vowed to rebuild it and there are hopes it might be back in business by Easter 2027. You can also grab fish and chips near the shore or enjoy drinks at popular bayside spots like Gin & Juice.
Moments to remember
The relaxation of breathing in the sea air and the singular beauty of the Welsh beaches. They seemed virtually empty of tourists and seemed to go on forever.
Rhossili Bay is a stunning three-mile stretch of golden sand located at the western tip of the Gower Peninsula and is frequently voted among the best beaches in the UK and Europe. It is famed for its dramatic cliffs, surfing waves, and the tidal island of Worm’s Head. There is no surprise that people travel hundreds or even thousands of miles from all over the world to see these magical places. The peace and quiet was idyllic.
How much
Room prices range from £89 – £225.
Fast and frequent train services link all regions of the UK to Swansea Bay either direct or with one easy interchange. Taxi services take 15 minutes from Swansea Station to Mumbles.
What’s nearby
Obviously one of the highlights of a trip to the Mumbles is exploring the Gower Peninsula. Picking up a walking map in reception, we set off on a breathtaking 10.3km circular trail that started at the hotel, which can easily be described as ‘the Gateway to the Gower.’ This scenic route takes in dramatic clifftops, peaceful woodland, and some of the area’s most iconic bays – from Bracelet to Langland and Caswell. The Gower is a 70-square-mile region jutting into the Bristol Channel, it was designated as the UK’s first area of Outstanding Beauty in 1956, and it certainly lives up to its reputation.
As we walked along the rugged Wales Coast Path with its sheer drop, it was hard not to be blown away by the spectacular blue vista of the sea that stretched as far as the eye could see. Famed for its dramatic limestone cliffs, the Gower has wild moors and world-class golden beaches like Rhossili Bay and Three Cliffs Bay where scenes from BBC’s The Night Manager were filmed two years ago.
For less strenuous activity, walk along the promenade and explore Mumbles Pier, which has plenty of cafes and amusements, and the 19th-century Lighthouse or visit Oystermouth Castle, which sits on the top of the hill. Wander through the 12th-century stone ruins perched high above the village and enjoy sweeping panoramic views across Swansea Bay. It is also where the Lovespoon Gallery is based. Since 1987, the gallery has hand-carved exquisite Welsh love-spoons, offering hundreds of designs from many individual carvers and is a totally unique experience.
Verdict
A fabulous seaside vibe, combined with great eating out, the warmest of Welsh welcomes and breath-taking scenery nearby. What was not to love about a weekend at the Oyster Hotel in Mumbles? In the (paraphrased) words of the late, great Bonnie Tyler, It Was Not a Heartache.