For the next three months, Swiss International Air Lines (SWISS) will serve culinary creations from the Canton of Nidwalden to its First and Business Class guests on long-haul flights departing Switzerland. The dishes have been created by Fabian Inderbitzin, Head Chef at Seerestaurant Belvédère in Hergiswil, located on the picturesque shores of Lake Lucerne. With his passion for regional produce and his ‘haute cuisine du terroir,’ which combines tradition with influences from around the world, he has earned both a Michelin star and 17 GaultMillau points.

Popular literature is full of heroes who grew up without their birth family. Snow White was raised by her wicked stepmother; Harry Potter was an orphan brought up by his aunt and uncle; and Oliver Twist lived in a grim institution for orphans and abandoned infants. 

But although all these characters are fictitious, author Charles Dickens was inspired to write Oliver Twist by the street children he saw growing up in Victorian London, as well as by the pioneering work of the Foundling Hospital. Today, a visit to the Foundling Museum is a poignant but inspiring look at life for children in care since the 18^th century.

One Man’s Mission

Located in leafy Bloomsbury, the Foundling Museum overlooks the green space of Coram’s Fields, formerly Lamb’s Conduit Fields. Site of the original hospital from 1739 until the 1920s, Coram’s Fields is today a safe play area where every adult must be accompanied by a child under 16, and is named after the visionary behind The Foundling Hospital. 

Captain Thomas Coram returned to London in 1704 from North America, where he had set up a shipbuilding business.  Every morning as Coram walked along the Thames from his home in Rotherhithe to the City, he was horrified to find vulnerable children and babies abandoned by destitute parents.  

Without wealth and connections, it took 17 years to gather enough support to gain the King’s permission to launch his charity, and today, the Royal Charter from George II is the first exhibit in the Museum’s Introductory Gallery.

Token gestures

Despite its name, The Foundling Hospital was not a hospital for the sick but a place of hospitality. Nor was it solely for foundlings. Most children were either orphaned or handed in by parents too impoverished to look after them. Only babies under two months were accepted, rehomed with foster parents before returning to the Hospital at 5 to be educated. 

New arrivals were given a new name and a numbered tag.  I’m hugely touched by the swatches of faded fabric, cut from parents’ clothing and left on their baby’s records as a means of identifying them, should they be able to reclaim their child.   Fabric was later replaced by tokens and I linger over the heartbreaking display of small items such as coins, playing cards and even a hazelnut.

A showcase for the arts

As well as being a pioneering children’s charity, The Foundling Hospital is regarded as London’s first public art gallery, showcasing works donated by painters such as William Hogarth to raise funds.   Staunch supporters of the charity, Hogarth and his wife were also foster parents to abandoned children.   

He launched the Hospital’s collection by donating his portrait of Thomas Coram which hangs today in the Picture Gallery.  Seated amongst reminders of his seafaring days, Coram’s benevolent face smiles out from under a mop of wild white hair.  Not for him the periwig beloved by Georgian Society gentlemen!  And across the landing, the lavishly decorated Court Room Gallery displays more art and furnishings gifted by leading artists of the day.

Master music maker

Another active supporter was George Frideric Handel who staged benefit performances for the Hospital and even bequeathed the manuscript score of his Messiah to the Hospital.  Head up to the Handel Gallery on the top floor to see an extensive collection of manuscripts and memorabilia from the Gerald Coke Handel Collection, including his Will.  You can even relax in an armchair and listen to music!

Still working today

The Foundling Museum aims to inspire change through the power of the arts, using the museum’s collections to help shape a better future for young people. 

At the heart of the charity’s work is an arts training programme with young people who have been in care, along with arts and wellbeing activities for early years children, families and local communities.  Details at www.foundlingmuseum.org.uk

Open daily from 10am except Mondays, adult admission £14.50 (£13.50 advance online); 21 & under, free.

Step back to Victorian Bloomsbury

Want to see more?  For an immersive experience of Victorian London, head to Shaftesbury Avenue in Theatreland. Dickens published Oliver Twist in monthly instalments between 1837 and 1839, and his characters have become world famous thanks to theatre and cinema versions.  

I followed up my visit to The Foundling Hospital with a seat for the latest London run of Lionel Bart’s iconic musical Oliver, presented by Cameron Macintosh and with choreography by Matthew Bourne.

More intimate than many venues that have staged previous productions, the Gielgud Theatre plunges you right into the heart of the action, tugging at the heartstrings, making you laugh, and sending you home singing some of the best musical theatre tunes ever written.  The perfect double bill for an emotional but uplifting day out.

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Packing for a trip often comes with the same dilemma: how to bring everything you might need without overfilling your suitcase. Beauty products are usually among the first things people struggle to narrow down, especially when travelling with limited luggage space. In reality, simplifying your holiday makeup routine often comes down to choosing versatile products, embracing lighter looks and focusing on what you are genuinely likely to use rather than preparing for every possible scenario.

Focus on products that do more than one thing

Holiday beauty routines rarely need to be as extensive as everyday ones. Warmer weather, changing schedules and long days out often encourage a more relaxed approach to makeup. Instead of bringing an entire collection, many travellers prefer a few dependable products that can serve multiple purposes.

 This often means choosing items that help save both time and space. Lightweight foundations, lip and cheek tints, compact eyeshadow palettes or versatile bronzers can easily adapt to different situations, whether heading to the beach during the day or going out for dinner in the evening. Travel is also one of those moments when many people realise they naturally wear less makeup than they expected.

Practicality matters too. A few carefully chosen essentials can often feel more useful than an overflowing makeup bag packed with products that never get touched.

Finding affordable products without overcomplicating things

Travelling can already feel expensive, which is one reason many people prefer keeping their beauty spending under control before a holiday.

This is where brands such as Catrice cosmetics sometimes appeal to travellers looking for practical makeup choices without overspending. Budget-friendly products can make it easier to test a new mascara, compact powder or lipstick shade without feeling pressured to commit to expensive alternatives before a trip.

Why simpler routines often feel better on holiday

Travelling often changes how people think about beauty. Many people naturally move towards products that feel breathable and effortless. A lightweight base, a reliable concealer and one or two products that add colour or definition are often enough to feel put together without spending too much time getting ready.

Keeping makeup simple can also make mornings feel calmer. Less time spent deciding what to wear or apply usually means more time enjoying breakfast, exploring a new city or simply slowing down and appreciating the experience.

Making travel preparation feel easier

Preparing for a trip tends to feel less stressful when everything is kept simple, and beauty routines are no exception. Rather than packing for every unlikely situation, many travellers find it more helpful to focus on products they already know they enjoy using.

Retailers such as Notino can also make preparation feel easier by offering access to a wide variety of beauty essentials in one place, helping travellers compare options and build a routine that feels practical rather than excessive. In the end, holiday makeup is often at its best when it feels effortless, comfortable and easy to adapt to whatever the trip brings.

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Straddling Europe and Asia, Istanbul is a city of layers. Empires have risen and fallen here, and each has left traces in the local cuisine. Ottoman court traditions mingle with Black Sea influences, Balkan recipes, Anatolian cooking, and flavours brought by migrants from every corner of Turkey. The result is one of the world’s most diverse urban food scenes, much of it hidden in ordinary streets far from the postcard landmarks.

The key to discovering Istanbul’s hidden food culture is curiosity rather than a checklist. Some of the most memorable meals happen in places without English menus, where recipes are explained through gestures and smiles. A tiny bakery producing fresh Börek at dawn, a neighbourhood grill perfumed with charcoal smoke, or a humble Lokanta serving recipes passed down through generations can reveal more about the city than any famous landmark

Istiklal Avenue

Few streets in the world compress as much history, noise, sweetness, caffeine, and late-night appetite into one long promenade as İstiklal Avenue. Stretching through the heart of Beyoğlu, this grand pedestrian boulevard is where Ottoman nostalgia collides with modern Turkish street life

Walk, rather than take the nostalgic red tram, and find the hidden stops that most people walk straight past. Çiçek Pasajı is a 19^th century arcade with beautiful iron and glass architecture. Sample the restaurants serving meze and fish dishes.

A must-visit along the route is Hafız Mustafa 1864, one of Istanbul’s most famous dessert institutions. This historic confectioner is ideal for sampling layers of pistachio baklava alongside rich Turkish ice cream. The ornate interiors and overflowing pastry counters make it feel like an Ottoman sweet palace.

Later in the walk, make time for Kafe Ara, a beloved Beyoğlu café known for its warm atmosphere and excellent Turkish desserts. Their creamy baked rice pudding, sütlaç, is especially worth ordering with its topping of hazelnuts.

A stroll down İstiklal Avenue is less about checking off famous dishes and more about surrendering to appetite. Follow the smell of grilled meat into side alleys, stop when a bakery window catches your eye, and allow extra time for unexpected discoveries. Istanbul rewards curiosity – especially when you arrive hungry.

Üsküdar

Take the ferry from the European side to the Asian side. The waterfront is the district’s heartbeat. Ferries arrive constantly from Eminönü, Karaköy, and Beşiktaş, bringing commuters and wanderers alike. Across the water, Istanbul’s European skyline rises like a painted backdrop: domes, minarets, and the distant silhouette of Hagia Sophia.

Walk uphill from the ferry docks and the streets begin to reveal daily life: bakers pulling sesame-covered simit from wood-fired ovens, grocers arranging olives and herbs outside tiny shops, and elderly men discussing football over endless glasses of tea.

The deeply authentic Ahmediye Market is a neighbourhood bazaar woven into daily life rather than tourism. Vendors call out prices over pyramids of tomatoes and peppers. Spice sellers scoop crimson pul biber and fragrant sumac into paper bags while neighbours stop to exchange gossip between purchases.

Just nearby is the Central Fish Market, known locally as the Üsküdar Balık Pazarı. It is not a polished tourist attraction but a working market filled with energy, noise, and the unmistakable smell of the sea. Fishermen unload the day’s catch while vendors call out prices for anchovies, sea bass, bluefish, mussels, and shrimp displayed over crushed ice. Restaurants nearby grill fresh fish to order.

Kuzguncuk

A short bus ride away is Kuzguncuk – a neighbourhood that feels less like a district of a megacity and more like a small town preserved inside one. Wooden Ottoman houses lean gently over cobbled streets, cats sleep on café chairs, and neighbours still greet one another from balconies shaded by vines.

The heart of the neighbourhood is Simitçi Tahir Sokak, a narrow street lined with pastel-coloured wooden homes, ivy-covered façades, and tiny cafés spilling onto the pavement. In spring and summer, bougainvillea drapes over windows and bicycles rest beside flower pots painted in cheerful colours.

Historical Kuzguncuk Bakery is more than a bakery – it is part of the neighbourhood’s identity. Established in 1929, the bakery remains one of the most beloved local gathering spots along İcadiye Street. Locals stop by for morning simit, families gather for pastries, and travellers pause after exploring Kuzguncuk’s quiet streets.

Badem Mantar Kurabiyesi is the bakery’s signature speciality – delicate almond mushroom-shaped cakes with a soft interior and lightly crisp shell.  The Tahini Buns (Tahinli Çörek) are almost as famous – a rich spiral pastry layered with tahini, sugar, and butter. And don’t forget the meringues filled with hazelnuts.

Beylerbeyi

Beylerbeyi is one of those neighbourhoods that rewards unhurried wandering. The shoreline curves gently beneath the Bosphorus Bridge, ferries cut across the water at regular intervals, and historic wooden houses rise quietly above the traffic. Lunch at Çınaraltı Restaurant fits naturally into this rhythm.

The first impression is always the same: open water, a wide horizon, and tables positioned to make the most of both. The menu leans into classic Turkish coastal dining: fresh mezze plates, grilled fish, and seasonal salads that feel built for warm afternoons. It is not a place that tries to reinvent anything.

Traditional Meyhanes are one of the most enduring social traditions of Istanbul, blending food, music, and conversation. İnciraltı Meyhanesi specializes in classic Turkish meze dishes, seafood, and traditional recipes inspired by Ottoman and regional cuisine. Popular dishes include topik, fava, lakerda, grilled liver, and fresh seasonal fish. The food here is very good indeed.

Factfile

GO: Turkish Airlines flies direct to Istanbul from London Heathrow.

INFO: GoTürkiye has information about the country

STAY: The Galata Hotel Istanbul – MGallery Collection makes for a comfortable base close to the ferry terminal and the Galata Tower.

You may also like:

• Heritage tour of Anatolia
• Travel guide to Izmir
• Culture tour of Ankara

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