I don’t usually anthropomorphise, but if a restaurant could take on human qualities, JNcQUOI Frou Frou, pronounced je ne sais quoi, as in “has a certain something”, she would be a siren, honed in the art of seduction.
It is situated on Lisbon’s most high-end boulevard, Avenida da Liberdade, and reached by ascending a stylish staircase that leads to doors opened by a smiling face. Then walking through the colourful JNcQUOI Asia restaurant (itself a place I must try one day) to a set of two huge, thick silver doors. It takes two, who open those doors deliberately and slowly, to reveal an unexpectedly hedonistic world put together by Belgian Designer Jean-Philippe Demeye.
JNcQUOI Frou Frou
It’s all boudoir in its decor. Hues of orange and red depicting Shanghai in the 1920s with lotus blossom lanterns throwing out dimmed lighting over the restaurant cum flamboyant drag queen theatre.
Add lacquered tables, waiters clad in salmon-hued jackets, dark blue, red and gold carpeting, part mirrored ceilings and cushioned leather tan chairs and sofas with tassels and what you get is moments of wanton wonderment.
The final touch is the ingenious immersive sound dining experience. A high-tech environmental effect created by sound designer Hovannes K designed to create a bubble where the outside world seems far away. I involuntarily kicked back and succumbed to what turned out to be a fabulous night.
Tonight we were entertained by the dulcet tones of Red Velvet looking very much the temptress in her tight sequinned bodice, exquisite makeup and long red locks as she almost propositioned us with her collection of crooner favourites. Red Velvet was undeniably flirting with her audience.
You might expect with so much distraction the food would end up being mediocre. Not so. A Cantonese menu curated by chef Mário Esteves who has assembled a delectable selection of dishes including some for vegetarians.
First came the salted and carmelized crispy pecan nuts to nibble on while we perused the highly colourful menu. The Peking duck with all the trimmings is their signature dish and looks appetizing. I watched on while it was served at a nearby table and carved in front of expectant diners with more than a little flourish.
This dish is made for sharing and as one of us was a pescatarian we opted for the mushroom dumplings with egg and goji that when dunked into hoisin sauce was amazing.
Then we moved on to stir-fried beef with pepper (for yours truly) which came with a delicious but gentle kick served with Jasmin rice and juicy steamed seabream with yellow bean sauce served with fried rice.
All this was downed with their full-bodied Portuguese house wine JNcQUOI Douro D.O.C. 2020 while Red Velvet shimmied elegantly around the restaurant proffering her favourite set of songs.
There are desserts such as raspberry and dark chocolate tarts, a traditional cheese cake and vanilla lemon meringue pie. But we were done.
VERDICT: JNcQUOI Frou Frou offers a foodie and fun night out. It’s almost worth booking a table just for the overall wow factor and the Drag Queen theatrical entertainment.
JNcQUOI Frou Frou
Avenida da Liberdade 144, Lisboa, Portugal. +351 210 513 015 [email protected]
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